change oil
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Pikesville MD
change oil
As I try to run my car at least once a month over the winter I do not do anything special to winterize. I had been covering it but am thinking in a closed insulated garage maybe better than putting the cover which might have dirt that would scratch on it. Any thoughts? I also have got in the habit of changing the oil and filter in early Spring rather than in early winter? Any thoughts on that? Thanks..
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,045
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From: FL
Change oil before you put it away and then just let it sit.
If you don't get the oil good and hot (200+ F), then moisture will accumulate in the crankcase when you run the engine. The oil takes longer to heat up than the coolant.
Mine has sat for 8 months while deployed with no issues.
If you don't get the oil good and hot (200+ F), then moisture will accumulate in the crankcase when you run the engine. The oil takes longer to heat up than the coolant.
Mine has sat for 8 months while deployed with no issues.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
Change the oil before storage if it is not synthetic. Dino oil can turn acidic just sitting around. That is the very reason I use synthetic oil in my car. It can run for a whole year on one change (maybe 2-3 filter changes during that time) and the oil doesn't "age".
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Columbus MN
I used to start mine every few weeks in the winter (I have exhaust hoses that vent outside) and thought I warmed it up each time. Then I noticed that water spattered out the exhaust when I started it. My theory is that idling it for a long while doesn't clear the water from low spots in the exhaust.
Now I just drive the car to and from work one day before temps don't get above freezing (VERY soon) and let the engine rev up a bit. Then I top off the gas tank, put the car on the lift, change the coolant, oil and filter, hook up an automatic battery tender, cover it with a good made-for-C3 cover, and raise it up so I can use the space under it until I get around to replacing the body mounts this winter. It doesn't run until I get it out in the spring.
Now I just drive the car to and from work one day before temps don't get above freezing (VERY soon) and let the engine rev up a bit. Then I top off the gas tank, put the car on the lift, change the coolant, oil and filter, hook up an automatic battery tender, cover it with a good made-for-C3 cover, and raise it up so I can use the space under it until I get around to replacing the body mounts this winter. It doesn't run until I get it out in the spring.
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http://www.springerlink.com/content/h032j14354363161/
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Working on the car NY
. Just go in once a month (or more if you like) and tap the brake pedal a coupla times to keep the brake caliper seals free. If they sit too long, that's when leaks occur.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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I used to manage a fleet of over 1,000 engines for worlds largest manufacturer of gas turbines. Those going into storage had to be drained of all oil to eliminate any possibility of acid degradation. Engines in service but 'parked' temporarily had to have a pH test done every few weeks. If pH dropped below 4.0 (which was common) the oil was to be changed or at minimum the engine run for half an hour to drive off the moisture.
All I'm saying is that synthetic oils are not a better choice for storage than dino.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
I don't know about you, Mike, but I'm not really using aviation oil used with gas turbine engines. I think its formulation may be a bit different than Amsoil, et al.... 
This might be a more appropriate site to check out:
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/amsoil..._9_others.html
This might be a more appropriate site to check out:
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/amsoil..._9_others.html
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
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