engine bay assembly questions
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: charlotte N.C
engine bay assembly questions
For the past 2 month, I have working on cleaning up the engine bay. Now I have almost everything painted and ready to be assembled. While doing so I came up with a few questions.
1. I do not know what this part is called but it is like a vent for the gas tank. Does this have to reinstalled or can the holes just be plugged up? If it has to be reinstalled, does anyone have any pictures of it?
2. I pulled these tire spacers off my 75 parts car. Instead of just putting them on the shelf I put them on my 76. Do you think this will cause any problems with contacting the fenders?
3. Can some post some pictures of their window wiper assembly? I have 4 C3's at my house but not one at the time has the wiper assembly attached. I think I have it right but I just want to be 100% before I test it.
1. I do not know what this part is called but it is like a vent for the gas tank. Does this have to reinstalled or can the holes just be plugged up? If it has to be reinstalled, does anyone have any pictures of it?
2. I pulled these tire spacers off my 75 parts car. Instead of just putting them on the shelf I put them on my 76. Do you think this will cause any problems with contacting the fenders?
3. Can some post some pictures of their window wiper assembly? I have 4 C3's at my house but not one at the time has the wiper assembly attached. I think I have it right but I just want to be 100% before I test it.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
1- i removed my gas vapour can 5 years ago in my 81. i have had no trouble since and removed the lines
2- tire spacers are hated by many and a necessity to others. i am running 295 rear tires with eagle alloys wheels. to clear my caliper i have 1/4 spacers on. if you use them make sure you have enough thread protruding past the spacer. by that i mean if your wheel nut has 20 threads inside be sure 15 are in use. if not then you need longer studs ( safety first) . contacting the fenders will all depend on what size tyre you are running/how high your car sits / how firm your shocks are . spacers are meant to give you clearance on the inside of the tire...not cause clearance issues on the outside.
3- here is the best wiper pics i have. sorry not very clear.
AND YES I KNOW MY MSD CAP AND LEAD ARE MISSING...thats a security thing i do amongst other things- sometimes i even trick myself and cant make my own car start.
2- tire spacers are hated by many and a necessity to others. i am running 295 rear tires with eagle alloys wheels. to clear my caliper i have 1/4 spacers on. if you use them make sure you have enough thread protruding past the spacer. by that i mean if your wheel nut has 20 threads inside be sure 15 are in use. if not then you need longer studs ( safety first) . contacting the fenders will all depend on what size tyre you are running/how high your car sits / how firm your shocks are . spacers are meant to give you clearance on the inside of the tire...not cause clearance issues on the outside.
3- here is the best wiper pics i have. sorry not very clear.
AND YES I KNOW MY MSD CAP AND LEAD ARE MISSING...thats a security thing i do amongst other things- sometimes i even trick myself and cant make my own car start.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Oct 28, 2009 at 11:04 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,114
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From: upstate N.Y.
I plugged my vapor canister for a few years until I did the restore.I bought a new canister and hooked it up and I noticed the gas smell in my garage was gone after it was parked for a few days.I also use the spacers on the rear .My wheel weights were hitting the calipers.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
If the lines running from the fuel tank to that cannister are still in good shape and the fuel separator is functional (gizmo on the left side of the tank where the lines run), reinstall the carbon cannister. It only does 'good' for your car [and the air]. All it does is contain the fuel vapors off the tank (keeps them out of the air and out of your garage) and stores them until you start the engine. Then, those vapors get sucked out of the cannister and fed into the PCV valve line going to the carb baseplate. Those vapors and any oil mist that the PCV valve releases are then burned with the fuel charge. It absorbs no power nor any loss of fuel...heck, it probably recovers a small amout of fuel for reuse!
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2009
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If the lines running from the fuel tank to that cannister are still in good shape and the fuel separator is functional (gizmo on the left side of the tank where the lines run), reinstall the carbon cannister. It only does 'good' for your car [and the air]. All it does is contain the fuel vapors off the tank (keeps them out of the air and out of your garage) and stores them until you start the engine. Then, those vapors get sucked out of the cannister and fed into the PCV valve line going to the carb baseplate. Those vapors and any oil mist that the PCV valve releases are then burned with the fuel charge. It absorbs no power nor any loss of fuel...heck, it probably recovers a small amout of fuel for reuse!
WTBRS
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 680
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From: charlotte N.C
Thanks for the help again. I came up with a few more questions:
1. What size bolts do I use to connect my hooker super competition side pipes to the engine? Also what type/size should I use for the pipes connecting to the frame?
2. I had the fuel pump at an angle accidently and the thread part in the block striped.
Is there a sleeve or something I can put in there and retap that or what else could I do to get it to work?
1. What size bolts do I use to connect my hooker super competition side pipes to the engine? Also what type/size should I use for the pipes connecting to the frame?
2. I had the fuel pump at an angle accidently and the thread part in the block striped.
Is there a sleeve or something I can put in there and retap that or what else could I do to get it to work?
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
You can always drill the hole out and put in a Helicoil, or be a little more Bubba and fill the hole with JB Weld, drill it and tap it.
Rick B.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
If you really damaged the threads in the block, the only proper way to fix it is with an insert. I think a Keen-sert would be better for [soft] cast iron, but a Heli-coil would probably work there, too. You will need a flat bottomed tap so that you can get the threaded area down as far as needed (without breaking into the inner block/oil). Make certain that the insert is at or below the surface of the block so it won't restrict the pump from sitting flat on the surface when it is installed. You also need to 'bump' the engine over so the pressure is 'off' the pump drive lever when you try to reinstall it; otherwise, it's a PITA to get together.
