ok its time to figure out if i want to take this on or not.
the lowest price ive got for someone to do it is 600.00
the parts all ac delco and ac plugs and correct wires
is there special tools you need to do this or is it just the pain in the *** factor ?
ive worked on every car ive owned my brothers (both of them) my sons ive rebuilt engines
whats the tricks ?
my car has all the sheilding on it
i have a friend with a lift im sure il need to use it

 

Old cars are easy and satisfying to work on. I encourage you to do the tuneup yourself. You will need a dwell meter (dewll/tach). Such a meter is combined with a ohmmeter, voltmeter and tachometer. If you don't have timing issues you probably won't need a timing light. These often cost more than the dwell/tach. All can be rented.

1) Remove the shielding around the plugs. Remove old plugs. Gap and install new plugs.
2) Remove shielding around wires and distributor. You will need to remove one engine-mount bolt to get the block shields off. There may be one bolt attached to the oil pan as well. This part of wire routing is the hardest. Route the wires from the plugs up to the distributor through the rubber spacers. Usually, the wires need to be shortened and terminated. Do this after step 3. Wire cutters and pliers are all that is needed.
3) Remove distributor cap, rotor, points and condenser. Install a unipoint set (points and condenser) and set the point gap with a feeler gauge. This may require moving the distributor housing a bit to reach the peak gap. Return the distributor housing to the original position and attach rotor, cap and finish the spark-plug wires. Lightly scribing a mark on the distributor housing is the best way to return the housing to the original timing position.
4) Attach dwell/tach to ignition system, start the engine and set the dwell with a hex wrench. Usually, once set the timing doesn't change much. If you wish to confirm timing, clean the dynamic balancer where the timing mark is. To aid in visualizing, apply whiteout to the timing mark and the timing pointer. Attach the timing strobe light and start the engine. With the vacuum advance disconnected rotate the distributor housing to align the marks. Be careful, there is lots of voltage that can jump quite a distance.
4) Put the shielding back on. Sometimes the spring tension of the points will change with time and the first few applications of heat. This may require a little "tweaking" of the dwell adjustment.

 

How "tuned up" will $600 get you? Those parts mentioned above will do the electrical end... how about an air filter element, breather element, fuel filter(s), PCV if equipped? Is your car running a flat tappet cam requiring valve adjustment, and the rocker cover gaskets for that? Oil change included? Tire rotation and balance? As to special tools it will be nice to get a GM distributor wrench... "L" shaped box end bent to allow easy access to the distributor hold down bolt, and a hex key on a spring sized to fit your points adjustment screw... haven't seen one of these in years but if you can find one it will make dwell adjustments considerably easier. BTW, $600 for an electrical only tune up is pretty steep.

 

For $600, It's almost worth it for me to FLY down there and do it for you.

A tune-up is probably the easiest thing there is on a Vette. Plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter. Some of the plugs are a real PITA to get to, but at the worst, pull the RF wheel and go thru the fenderwell. All the tin around the distributor makes it a little more time consuming, but if you take pictures of how it comes apart, no deal.

As above, a tach/dwell meter, a 1/8 hex to adjust the points, and a timing light. Other than that, a 5/8 spark plug socket, some 3/8 drive extensions and ratchet and a couple of screwdrivers.

 

Do it youself, that's how you learn. It's not your daily driver so if it doesn't start, you can let it sit and double check your work tomorrow or the next day. Change one wire at a time and you won't have an issue especially with a hoist as you will want to get underneith to change the wires.

Gary

 

I just can't imagine leaving my car to anyone else and allow them to "joy ride" while they claim to "test drive" it. Very possible they will do more harm to the drive train than any good they do to tuning the engine. No, i don't trust any mechanics - even most dealers! Every small shop wants to "test drive" my performance cars. Heck just the other day a shop wanted me to drop off my camaro z28 just to change the fuel filter (yes i was in a hurry). Com'on, it would take me an hour to drop off and another hour to pickup for a ten minute job with a car lift. All they wanted to do was spin my tires off at my expense.

And tuning is where performance begins. Too many enthusiasts try to do engine majors like heads and cam before they can even set the timing let alone a timing "curve".

Take your time, read up and set your car up like it should be and u can see it for yourself.

Good luck and let us know if you have any questions, we're here to help. My advise is keep it simple the first time.
cardo0

 

Well, the rest of you guys think a tune-up on a C3 is a "piece-of-cake"; but if you are replacing plug wires and want the shielding and hardware to be put back on correctly, I think it's a POS...or at least a PITA. You will need to raise the front end of the car; you just can't get the plug wires routed without getting under it. Then pull off the right-front wheel. Get a couple of egg-cartons so that you can label and store the hardware properly (nuts, bolts, brackets, shields, heat deflectors). Once your pull all the shielding (including the rear side shields that hold the plug wires) and label each plug wire at the terminal end cap, you'll be able to remove the distributor cap with the wiring still attached. Since you are replacing the cap and wires, build the new set so it looks exactly like the old set. Number the new plug terminal caps [or label them].

>>>If you ever wanted to do a compression check on your engine, the time to do it is when you pull all of the spark plugs. Do any clean up of the engine block/engine bay if you want, also.

Since you are doing a full tune-up, you should pull and go through the distributor while you're in there [if you haven't done so in several years]. Clean it, check for slop, put in a new vacuum can, check the signal wire for continuity and for possible short to the dist. housing. Get a re-curve spring/weight kit for when you start it back up.

OK, now the joy of fitting all that hardware into that tiny engine bay. Have fun!!!

P.S. Yes, I always do my tune-ups too...but it doesn't seem to be as much fun as you guys make it sound.

 

7T1...I haven't seen a reply yet that suggests this job is as easy as getting dressed in the morning, simply that (my estimate only) $450 labor to install $150 in parts might be a bit much. How long does it take you to tune yours? Would it be reasonable to think someone capable of successfully rebuilding an engine might tackle this in a weekend on their first attempt? He has access to a lift, and tools enough to boot (probably). Seems a doable deal and valuable as both a money saver and educational excercise.... and certainly simpler than rear wheel bearing replacement.

 

ok well thank you all for the input
im going to do this myself ive tuned up a chevrolet with points before your right its not that hard but i can tell from looking at it theres not much room and its going to be a pita for sure
my friend with the lift yes has every tool i could ever need to this he owns a shop and has been a mechanic for 20 + years
i called him and asked him about it and he confirmed the fact that it is a pita and the oil pan bolt and the moter mount bolt and also said that he was sure i could do this but plan on it taking all day and not to rush
so i will be doing this next weekend the 7th and the 8th so anymore advise or suggestions before then will help
thanks

 

Changing all eight HT wires on a C3 with full shielding is a real PIA and will eat up lots of man hours. I do my own- but have all the time in the world to do it.

 

Mike.... When I do mine, if I have fewer cuts on my hands than the number of fasteners I've wrenched, I consider it a 'good' day.

 

went through the whole deal after i bought my 72. easy is replacing the plugs they are maybe 2.00 each at auto zone. car ran a little better, then replaced distributor, rotor and points, also easy, car ran even better. cost like 50.00. ok next step i replaced the plug wires, they were like 70.00 but i wanted to route them correct through the motor mount. this took some time!!! and i doubt whoever you are talking to would be running then through the mount. but i did and installed the shielding, (that cost like 250.00) but isnt really a tune up, after the wires car again ran better. now the key was i bought the electronic ignition from letric limited. wasnt that tough and cost maybe 150.00 , that to me was the best addition car ran as smooth as could be and starts at a touch of the key. the instructions are detailed and requires no mod.600.00 is way off for what i bet you will get. for one thing it will be cheap plug wires

 

no the corvette only repair shop i got the quote from is useing all ac delco correct parts and they have done many cars like mine with the sheilding
they are just out of their mind on the cost
they are real close to a certain very rare yellow and black car in orlando

 

I agree it's a pain but it's all the more reason not to trust someone else to take the time to do it properly.