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I've always heard that if you have too aggressive a cam, you will have problems maintaing vacum pressure. Since C-3 vettes use vacum to opperate the headlight mechanism, this has extra importance to us. At what point is a cam too extreme to be practical on a street C-3? Has anybody had experience with weak vacum due to a big cam?
Well the cam will definitely affect vacuum and if you go too big your brakes and headlights will not work well. I can tell you that my car runs right at 15" vacuum at idle and everything works fine. Not sure how low you can go. Others here have described running auxillary vacuum systems in order to run a big cam. In fact there is a post about a brake booster in the linked post.
A rule of thumb is 12 inches manifold vacuum for street,MINIMUM.The idea that a really large cam is best depends on your intended use.A cam with lots of durration may soon good at idle,but will have poor street manners and driveabilty to say the least.For street use you would be best served by a cam with durration of no more than 230 @.50.A wider lobe seperation of 112-114 will as help smooth idle and aid low speed driveabilty.You can run lift up to .500-.510 with the correct valve springs.Durration and overlap affect vacuum. :chevy
You will never have to much cam if it's a proper combo. Hydro cams with to little lobe center cause low vacuum and drivability problems. all you have to do is have enough compression and free flowing intake and exhaust and things run great. You also have to think of props like gearing and higher stall converters and keep carb cfm within reason
I plan to run a vaccum booster to be safe. I remember my father telling me that in in 1970 he switched his '69 L89 cam for a 300/300 duration and when he raced at night he had to lock the headlights in because at the top of each gear the light would go down and then come back when he shifted. :lol:
It may have importance to some, but not all. :cool: Yes, have run low vac. setups. :cool: Never too much cam, just not enough engine.
A big cam will act smaller w/ more C.I. You need to pick a cam that matches you setup. If you give your setup, can cam.
For many 230 @.050 110LS is a good street limit, however this is not a rec. w/o knowing the setup.
My understanding is a strong vacuum signal will usually result in smooth idle & crisp part throttle response and driveability & good low end tourque.........on the street torque is king,............................. reference>>> comp cams 252 , 600 rpm idle 17/18 ins, comp cams 268 850 rpm idle 16 ins, comp cams 280 , 850 idle 12 ins , comp cams 292 950 rpm idle & 10 ins of vacuum at idle.................The Dog Woof woof. :seeya
My understanding is a strong vacuum signal will usually result in smooth idle & crisp part throttle response and driveability & good low end tourque.........on the street torque is king,............................. reference>>> comp cams 252 , 600 rpm idle 17/18 ins, comp cams 268 850 rpm idle 16 ins, comp cams 280 , 850 idle 12 ins , comp cams 292 950 rpm idle & 10 ins of vacuum at idle.................The Dog Woof woof. :seeya
NOTE.....the vaccum readings etc & cam info, was from an article ..in Super Chevy Magazine April 1998 issue , page 42....on basis of dyno tests after various cam changes,,,,,,,,,, :yesnod: i reccomend this magazine great tech info :seeya :flag
Just a point of interest.... When dealing with vacuum (I do on a daily basis but in an industrial setting) there are TWO factors. Suction and Flow. While you may be drawing 13"Hg your flow way be very low and therefore it will take a long time to pumpdown to this level. Conversley you may have a low vacuum suction pressure but a high flow. I think that it is this aspect that can partially explain why two cars witht the same pressure reading act so much differently...