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My car is a 75 the motor is a 69. I need a new oil pan gasket The one that was on there is a felpro one piece #0534510t, I don`t think it leaked. On summits website it says I should be using #0534509t. Which one should I get. I had to put on a new pan and now the old gasket is leaking so I only want to drop the pan twice. Someday I`ll get it right the first time.
I would use the one piece. I used the four piece and it works but can be trickey keeping it in place.I ended up gluing it all to the pan after sealant was set up I coated the top side of gaskets and installed, so far it good.
Go with the FelPro one piece gasket. If the engine has miles on it always like to replace the rear main seal while the pan is off. Very easy to do and you wont have to re-open the pan later.
You need to do a few things to get that gasket to seal: 1) make certain that the oil pan 'rail' [sealing surface] is flat, including the areas around the bolt holes; they tend to get dimpled from bolt overtorquing; 2) use a good solvent (paint thinner, etc.) to clean both sealing surfaces (engine block & oil pan) so that both are completely free of grease/oil and are dry; 3) put small dabs of black RTV or Permatex gasket sealer at the junction between the bearing caps and the sealing rail; 4) use four guide pins, threaded studs, or the plastic gasket guides [if your gasket came with them] to put the gasket in proper position and hold it there while you install the oil pan. Then put all the bolts in...finger tight...and torque all of them to get them just snug. Go around the complete bolt pattern a couple of times, first tightening to 5 ft-lbs then to full torque specification (for your application). Oh, one final thought...if you bought one of those chrome plated oil pans, use some 150 grit sandpaper to scuff the gasket surface in the same direction of the rail. That will give the gasket a place to bite into; otherwise the slick chrome may not seal at all.