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rear spring rebuild advice

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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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Default rear spring rebuild advice

Hey guys,
Does anyone know what's involved in taking apart/ rebuilding the rear spring on a '72? I'm rebuilding everything in the rear of the car (it all started with a leaking pinion seal on the diff.), have removed the trailing arms and everything else for rebuild and am now looking at the spring. I don't think it needs to be re-arched as the ride height/ stance of the car looks about right. I just want to take the spring apart , repaint, and put in new liners.
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Hi G,
The rebuild is straight forward once the spring is out of the car. The paint and liners are available from many vendors, I like Quanta Products.
Notice there's 1 less liner than you'd think! None at long flat leaf.
Regards,
Alan


Last edited by Alan 71; Nov 21, 2009 at 01:14 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi G,
The rebuild is straight forward once the spring is out of the car. The paint and liners are available from many vendors, I like Quanta Products.
Notice there's 1 less liner than you'd think! None at long flat leaf.
Regards,
Alan

Thanks Alan. Is there anything special about removing the center bolt in order to disassemble the spring?
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 04:26 PM
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When I did mine, it was rusted through and in two pieces anyway. Nothing special that I could see, other than it will be under a bit of tension as you unthread it. The replacement bolt that I ordered was much longer than it need to be, making it easier to get started. I trimmed the excess length after I tightened it down.

I suppose you can use a c-clamp to hold the leaves together, remove the nut and bolt, then release the tension by loosening the c-clamp.

temvette72
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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Hi G,
T72's info is right on about watching the length of thre bolt. I was able to save my center bolt with some rust buster but often they're so rusted the nut twists off. Good luck with yours.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by temvette72
When I did mine, it was rusted through and in two pieces anyway. Nothing special that I could see, other than it will be under a bit of tension as you unthread it. The replacement bolt that I ordered was much longer than it need to be, making it easier to get started. I trimmed the excess length after I tightened it down.

I suppose you can use a c-clamp to hold the leaves together, remove the nut and bolt, then release the tension by loosening the c-clamp.

temvette72
Yeah, that's what I was concerned about - how much pressure the spring leaves were under when I take the screw out. Thanks for the help, doing this is a lot cheaper than buying a new spring and then trying to correct ride height, etc.
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi G,
T72's info is right on about watching the length of thre bolt. I was able to save my center bolt with some rust buster but often they're so rusted the nut twists off. Good luck with yours.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan. After I'm done with the spring I'm really looking forward to putting everything back together after I get my rear end pieces back from rebuild.
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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It's really not worth fooling with the old bolt. There is a reason new bolts are so long. A 6 or 8" center bolt is less than a dollar at a truck supply.

If using a new bolt, make sure the head is shallow enough to not protrude in mount, otherwise you could pop the casting. You can grind the head down to fit recessed.



I didn't replace the liners, they hold a lot of moisture. You can see the rust pits in the old leaf. Depends how much rain your car will see. Check to make sure yours a good.

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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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Is the old spring still adequate? The easiest way to repair it is to take it to a truck spring shop and let them rebuild it right. I doubt you have the size vise you need to take it apart [or reassemble it] properly.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Is the old spring still adequate? The easiest way to repair it is to take it to a truck spring shop and let them rebuild it right. I doubt you have the size vise you need to take it apart [or reassemble it] properly.
The spring is adequate I think - the ride height looks good. Mainly I just want to clean it up, paint it, new liners, etc. I was thinking a couple good c-clamps would hold the spring together when I took the center bolt out. Is a big vise required to do this?
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Hi G,
I'm not sure what 7T1 is referring to, I took my spring apart and put it back together without an special tools. Once the trailing arms are dissconected the spring is in it's relaxed state... it comes apart easily. (at least mine did)
Regards,
Alan
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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Like the "Church Lady" used to say on SNL.... "Never mind..." :o
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gulflyer
The spring is adequate I think - the ride height looks good. Mainly I just want to clean it up, paint it, new liners, etc. I was thinking a couple good c-clamps would hold the spring together when I took the center bolt out. Is a big vise required to do this?
C-CLAMPS WILL WORK. I DID MY DAYTONA SPRING FOR MY '66 LAST WEEK. WAITING FOR THE PAINT TO DRY TOOK THE LONGEST. BE SURE TO LUBE BETWEEN THE LEAVES.



BILL SR

Last edited by lakebumm; Nov 22, 2009 at 05:53 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lakebumm
C-CLAMPS WILL WORK. I DID MY DAYTONA SPRING FOR MY '66 LAST WEEK. WAITING FOR THE PAINT TO DRY TOOK THE LONGEST. BE SURE TO LUBE BETWEEN THE LEAVES.



BILL SR
Do you lube in between the leaves and the liners? What kind of lube do you use?
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gulflyer
Do you lube in between the leaves and the liners? What kind of lube do you use?
I just used a thin coat of bearing grease applied with a small paint brush, lubed between both
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bluthundr
I just used a thin coat of bearing grease applied with a small paint brush, lubed between both
Thanks for the info blu.
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