So I had an issue with my 80 Vette I had planned on fixing with the Yearone Power 350 crate motor I bought but I found out I couldnt tackle this project myself and I would probably kill myself in my car so I decided to sell the crate motor and tranny and keep the car mostly stock.

My problem is my starter would grind after a week or so of perfect starting. While I was underneath my car I noticed a piece of the block chipped off where one of the starter bolts connects to. I figured this was the problem and heard of other people having the same issue. I just wanted to know if anyone had a decent fix for it. My roommate wanted to weld a bolt in there and secure the starter with a nut and 2 regular bolts.

I still have to tackle the weatherstrip... then the new wheels/tires... then the starter issue... then putting the engine together.... then I think im done... oh wait no then I gotta figure out why my lights dont turn on, my wipers dont work and my blower motor quit.... then im done... but I miss driving my baby!

 

When you tackle the weather stip, my best advice is to get a complete kit instead of a piece here and a piece there. The different thicknesses and lengths from different manufactures will cause problems with them matching up correctly. This piece of advice was given to me by another forum member when I was restoring my 75... glad I took the advice.

 

I think you can weld a stud in the block (where the starter mounts), as long as you can mesh the threads in well to know that it is aligned properly AND that you use a stud with the correct knurling on the shank. That knurled area is to take up the 'slack' in the starter mounting hole so that the starter is more precisely aligned with the flywheel. If you use this repair method properly, it should work just fine. [Use a split-lockwasher under the nut on that stud.]

 

I think thats what im going to try. The starter issue has been hell for a while. It basically went downhill from when the first starter went and I went through about 8 of them all together in maybe 2 months. I had to change the flexplate which took 3 days and a few friends and the car started up perfect on the lift... as soon as it got down it started grinding and everything went from there. Lights, wipers... ect... been a great few weeks after that.

I got a whole weatherstrip kit already in, the old weatherstrip just doesnt want to come off too well even with wire brushes and elbow grease. The metal in the old weatherstrip is rusted out so I have to fix that too. I think if I can get new tires on and put my rims on and make sure everything runs alright I might take it in somewhere for the electrical, weatherstrip, and window issue im having.

 

try this out first ....doesnt the starter slip into the bell housing hole and then get bolted in place? if the bolts in place can you still slip the starter into place? welding cast material is for good welders is you friend a welder?

 

I had the same problem with a 383 block, and a machinist suggeted this. Mill down the flat boss that the starter normally bolts to about 5/8's inch, then mill the broken bolt hole at 90degres square of the boss right up to where the threads start to dissapear. Get a piece of billet steel and basically build a matching "puzzle" piece, sort of L shaped, same width of the boss (starter mounting pad). Then drill a hole for the innermost bolt hole to go through, and a matching one for where the other broken one would have been. Then drill a small like 1/4 inch hole, center of the two holes and drill a matching hole in the block, and tap it to like 5/16's bolt, countersink and use a flat head allen bolt to hold it in place. then drill a hole on either side of the block at 90 degrees, centered and put a hardened roll pin in both sides.
Sounds like alot of work but isn't that tuff if you have the equipment to do it. My block was borderline needing another bore out to 60 and since my rotating assembly was fairly new at 30, I decided to just get a new block, but it was an interesting idea.

 

A cast iron Block is not going to be welded. It can be done but it needs to be Heated in an oven and its a big deal for a very exspensive rare Block that cannot be replaced. If it was Aluminum that would be diffrent, wich is easy to weld.

 

So im screwed or im f-ed... great

 

So im screwed or im f-ed... great

 

So im screwed or im f-ed... great

 

With proper temperature management.... welding cast iron can be done. Talk to your local engine builder.

 

now im wondering why my computer felt the need to post that 3 times... damn you microsoft! I dont know I might try a bolt or something and see how well it holds up.... maybe a crapload of bondo so people will confuse it with a ricer.

 

You could go to the other size flywheel and use the other holes to mount the starter.

 

I saved many broken cast iron parts, but :
Yes, the part must be heated ( 400 to 500 °F is generally enough ) but you don't need to heat all the block.
And it's better is the part cools down slowly ( a few hours is fine ). If it cools too fast, the part may crack again.
Technically, the welding must be hammered while it is still very hot ( with a small hammer, very often and very quickly after each welding coat ). The purpose of this operation is to stretch the metal and prevent it from breaking when it cools down. Cast iron is not as flexible as steel. It is very resistant to compression, but not much to extension.
The welding technic is particular, but it's really feasible if the guy knows his job well...

Now, the sad story : Depending on where the broken piece of the block is, you may have to remove the engine from the car...