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HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP

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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
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Default HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP

I NEED HELP. I am putting Hooker header side pipes on and I got the passenger side on fine, other than a stripped header bold, which you guys helped me fix.:cheers:
Now how in the heck do you get the drivers side header pipe on , I can't seem to work it in from under the car or down from the top. I have been twisting and turning for two hours and can't figure it out.I keep getting hung up on something anyway I try.
And to top it off my internet server is going to be down in 10 minutes to upgrade something or other until tomorrow.
Any advice would be appreciated. I have a 77 automatic if that matters.
Thanks in advance
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 10:34 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

I have a 69 manual and to get the Drivers side in I a had to remove the Zbar(not with the auto) and dipstick. I then jacked up the car and slid it in from the bottom. You have to put it in just right but once you get it in it should clear everything. :cool:
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Old Feb 28, 2002 | 10:52 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Jester69Stingray)

Jester69Stingray
Internet is still up for now, I think I may have to get the car up higher, right now its only on car ramps, but it worked for the one side. Did you have your 69 (nice year):cool: up any higher.
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 12:04 AM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

Well I just did my '78. On the driver side I had to take off the oil pressure sender and the water temp sender. Otherwise there wasn't enough manuvering room to get around the steering box. Just slide the header up from the bottom the #1 tube under the steering box, then up as it clears forward. Actually easier then the other side. Now mine is on jackstands 24" up no wheels on, starter is out as is alternator.
Scott
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 12:53 AM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

My best guess is that your trouble is the steering box, oil pres sending unit or both. The header has to go in from the bottom so you are going to get that thing up higher I took my frame up as high as my floor jack would go. And my LH side was also eaiser
When you get it up there start all the bolts and tighten them all at the same time so it brings the header in evenly.
When I did mine I got all but 1 or 2 tight and the last two I couldn't even start because of the way the pipe came out.
good luck :cheers:
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 12:15 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

Thanks to all who responded to my questions.
Turns out I did have to jack the car up more and take out the water temp sender unit. :cheers:
If there is anyone out there as dumb as I am, when you take out the water sending unit antifreeze will run out all over the floor.
One more dumb Question speaking of antifreeze, some ran into the header pipe, should I be concerned about any condensation getting in the engine or should I let the header sit until it drys out. :confused:
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 02:27 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

I wouldn't worry about it too much because your exhaust is about 70% water any way.
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 03:00 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Aaron76)

Yea I guess you are right about the exhaust being loaded with water.:bb
Ok I promise no more stupid questions, maybe.
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 08:28 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

I just finished up the drivers side install and when I crawed under the car I notice that one header tube is resting right on the frame, is this a problem or a normal fit , the other side has about an inch clearance. :confused:
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 08:58 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

I have heard of guys "dimpling" the pipes near the frame and steering box. And also "adjusting" the pipe to give a little more sparkplug clearence or to prevent burning the plugwire end. In my situation I have more room on the drivers side so I don't have to notch either fiberglass or the rocker. On the passenger side I had to notch both to get enough clearance,actually I haven't done the rocker yet nervous about hacking on it and curious why the fit is that way. I'd be interested to know if you or any others had the same situation.

Scott
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 09:03 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Scott78)

Lossen the motor mount bolts and rock the engine a little to see if it will settle. Having the right side higher than the left sounds like a motor mount might be bound up. I would take a look before I cut the rocker panel.
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 09:10 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Scott78)

Scott
I don't have any clearance problem at the rocker , but I haven't put the tubes on yet.I am curious what is "dimpling", it sounds like it involves a hammer. I would also like to know why the guys on Crank & Crome(tv show) never have these problems.
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 09:10 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Pete79L82)

Thanks Pete,
I tried just that and everything settled back to the same place. I was thinking motor mount might be bad or body mount. Motor mounts look good and don't deflect to much. The body mounts look fair, they're complete but dried out and cracking but about equal on both sides. Maybe before I finish I'll put the wheels on and see if setting it on the ground makes a difference. It just seems weird that one side fits with good clearance and the other needs the notching. I'd feel better if I had to hack both sides :smash:
Scott
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 09:13 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

Dimpling: IMHO it is the use of the round end of a ballpeen hammer to adjust the pipe for more clearance :D
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Old Mar 2, 2002 | 02:24 AM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

I didn't dimple the 2.125" header pipes for spark plug/wire clearance, I got the Jacobs ceramic pug wite instead, now no problems.

The left side of the pipes wouldn't clear the frame as it passes behind the front wheel. I made a half circle block to fit under the pipes needing squashing and placed a thick cloth between the block and the cloth. The block supported the pipe about 4" along its length. I then put the pipe in my hydraulic floor press and flattened the top side, als using a flat block cushioned with heavy cloth (I don't want to scratch my Jet hot coated pipes!). Large C clamps might also work.

Very, very little loss of actual cross sectional area. No sharp bends to call attention to my changing the pipe's shape.

The steering box has less than 1/8th inch clearance between it and the #3 tube. If it was less, I would have used the same technique here to; but, with the 1/8 inch, I wrapped the tube with header insulation wrap and called it a day. Seems to be fine.

Chuck


[Modified by Chuck Harmon, 10:25 PM 3/1/2002]
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Old Mar 4, 2002 | 01:23 PM
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Chuck Harmon)

Hey Chuck, How much clearance do you have between the frame now, and how hard was it to "squash" the pipe. Did the coating hold up under the squashing.
Thanks
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Old Mar 4, 2002 | 03:03 PM
  #17  
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Default Re: HOOKER SIDE PIPE HELP (Robovet)

I had a bad expierence with the drivers side Hooker side exhaust header on my 69 big block.
I ordered a brand new set. Passenger side bolted up with no problem and plenty of clearance. Went to install the drivers side and could not even tighten the bolts down on the collector because the top inside exhaust tube hit the lower front fender. Called Hooker they took it back, sent me a new header and it bolted up with no problem. I have about a 1/16 inch of clearance between that same tube and the bottom of the drivers side front fender now. Also now when I put the drivers side tube on it seems to be not perfectly parallel with the frame rail so I have to put some upward pressure on the tube to get the bolts to go through the mounting tabs on the side tube. Passenger side is perfect. Drivers side stinks.
You are not alone. I do believe that the manufacturing process's and quality control on these headers is not exactly perfect and has something to be desired.
:mad :mad :mad :mad
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