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When the rotor is too thin, you got to throw it away IMO.
Many years ago, I was installing new pads on a new caliper. My then wife fronted up on the scene and started giving me some static about something I've long since forgot about. I actually put one of the pads in backwards. The metal surface was facing the rotor, and the composite material was facing the caliper pistons. I drove the car for quite a while. There was a brake squeal problem when I used the brakes. I just ignored it thinking it was just one of those disk brake things. For street and freeway driving I never had a brake concern, other than the squeal. I eventually checked out the rotor. I was amazed at the significant groves that the had been cut into the rotor. Of course the rotor was history, but the braking performance of that wheel was always 100% - of course I'm talking street performance.
I think the conclusion here is that groves in the rotor and also corresponding surfaces on the brake pad material can still result in a functional caliper/rotor brake system for street use. Obviously, as soon as you realize the groves are there you've got to get rid of the rotor and brake pads.
I was under the impression that all disc brake rotors needed to have .002-.003" runout to keep the pads from 'riding' the rotors and having premature wear.
Yeah, I've heard that too, but the General still says .001" runout on Corvette rotors. Something about the 4 piston caliper no doubt. I can also report from experience that much more than this and you end up with air in the system.
I was under the impression that all disc brake rotors needed to have .002-.003" runout to keep the pads from 'riding' the rotors and having premature wear.
Doesn't apply to C2/C3 Corvettes, or any car with fixed caliper design.