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My power steering pump is going bad (fluid leaking/squeeling like a pig/and orginal). I am going to replace it. Is there anything else I should do to the steering while I have it apart. I have heard of people here rebuilding the control valve and some other parts (couldn't find the thread) and replacing the rag joint. What should I do. It is a 1979 L48 and pretty much stock as far as steering and suspension go. Not here to spend load of money because it runs and drives good.
There is an old adage. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Now you can also rationalize and say, my hoses and control valve are old. Why not replace them while I have the system down?
Good thought. However, how many miles do you drive your car per year? With only a couple thousand (maybe a couple hundered) miles per year. Maybe your hoses and control valve may last another 10 or 20 years! Then again, if your Vette already has 70,000 or is it 170,000 miles, maybe it is time to replace at least the hoses.
One other suggestion. If you are going to replace your pump, it might be a good thought to use genuine GM power steering fluid to replenish your system. It is the only fluid that is specifically formulated to operate with Saginaw (GM) power steering pumps. It is available through GM dealers.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Dec 12, 2009 at 08:18 PM.
Jim,
I will change the hoses. I grew up North of Grand Rapids and live down here in Virginia Beach now (NAVY). Got down to the 30 this weekend here, don't miss the michigan winters.
One other suggestion. If you are going to replace your pump, it might be a good thought to use genuine GM power steering fluid to replenish your system. It is the only fluid that is specifically formulated to operate with Saginaw (GM) power steering pumps. It is available through GM dealers.
Jim
Didn't know that. Great information.
dgood, are you buying a new a rebuilt pump? Looking to have my pump replaced too.
Not sure if I will buy new or rebuilt. I have to finish getting my wifes car painted (all sanded) and then put back together then I will put the vett up for the winter and start replacing stuff. I haven't priced them yet.
$78 for a rag joint...wow, didn't realize they were that much. May go with Jim and "if it aint broke done fix it"
Yes Sir: If the rag joint is as old as the car, It will soon turn to dust. You can buy a kit at your local auto store and rebuild it, if you can't afford a new one. Kits the right size, are hard to find, in the right diameter. Check it out. You can also rebuild your power steering pump with a kit. Have a great day. Gene
dgood,
If you just want a replacement rubber, look up www.borgeson.com They're in Connecticut and sell just the rubber part PLUS new shouldered bolts in a kit for around $10. They are top quaklity and made in America. They also have new Saginaw pumps, in black or chrome, plus new brackets if needed.
You should also have a look at their integral power steering box part #800108, it's possibly out of your budget range, but if fitted, it will make a vast improvement on the way the car drives. You will actually feel the road through the wheel when going straight ahead, but the power boost will come in when you turn the steering wheel. The more you turn it, the more the boost. Plus there's only 2.7 turns lock to lock.
Buy a rebuilt power steering pump and new hoses. Check the end of the actuating cylinder to see if there is leakage between the seal and the piston rod. If that end is dry, leave it alone...there is nothing to go bad except the seal. If the car was steering OK, don't mess with the control valve; you can always rebuild it separately if it has a problem later. Lastly, don't mess with the ragjoint unless the rubber disc looks like it is falling apart or the 'safety' pins on it are actually making contact with the metal flange when the steering wheel moves throughout its operating range. If the disc is deteriorating and there is some 'slop' between the steering column shaft movement and the gear box input shaft movement, then the rubber disc needs to be replaced. Unless there is damage to any of the metal parts on the ragjoint, just keep the same hardware. Note: the two bolts on the ragjoint are different sizes; reinstall them in the same locations as you found them. Orientation of the joint to the two shafts is important.