Cabin Prepping Before Carpet Installation
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Winchester CA
Cabin Prepping Before Carpet Installation
How's everyone doing?
I recently removed the original carpet and underlay from my '80. No issues with rot or excessive rust in the critical areas that the 3rd generation Vettes are known for. It has some light surface rust on the floor-pans which I will be taking care of. I've started the cleaning process (Simple Green) and was wondering what you guys recommend I apply on the metal after it has been thoroughly cleaned. I will be installing good heat and sound material, and would like some advise on what paint, epoxy, or rust preventive I should apply. I've read about POR-15, but I think that may be over-kill for this application. I'm not coating the frame or underbody. Just want an easy but effective enough application for the cabin. By the way, the build sheet was intact! It was under the carpet in the rear cargo area.
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to you all!
I recently removed the original carpet and underlay from my '80. No issues with rot or excessive rust in the critical areas that the 3rd generation Vettes are known for. It has some light surface rust on the floor-pans which I will be taking care of. I've started the cleaning process (Simple Green) and was wondering what you guys recommend I apply on the metal after it has been thoroughly cleaned. I will be installing good heat and sound material, and would like some advise on what paint, epoxy, or rust preventive I should apply. I've read about POR-15, but I think that may be over-kill for this application. I'm not coating the frame or underbody. Just want an easy but effective enough application for the cabin. By the way, the build sheet was intact! It was under the carpet in the rear cargo area.
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to you all!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
How's everyone doing?
I recently removed the original carpet and underlay from my '80. No issues with rot or excessive rust in the critical areas that the 3rd generation Vettes are known for. It has some light surface rust on the floor-pans which I will be taking care of. I've started the cleaning process (Simple Green) and was wondering what you guys recommend I apply on the metal after it has been thoroughly cleaned. I will be installing good heat and sound material, and would like some advise on what paint, epoxy, or rust preventive I should apply. I've read about POR-15, but I think that may be over-kill for this application. I'm not coating the frame or underbody. Just want an easy but effective enough application for the cabin. By the way, the build sheet was intact! It was under the carpet in the rear cargo area.
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to you all!
I recently removed the original carpet and underlay from my '80. No issues with rot or excessive rust in the critical areas that the 3rd generation Vettes are known for. It has some light surface rust on the floor-pans which I will be taking care of. I've started the cleaning process (Simple Green) and was wondering what you guys recommend I apply on the metal after it has been thoroughly cleaned. I will be installing good heat and sound material, and would like some advise on what paint, epoxy, or rust preventive I should apply. I've read about POR-15, but I think that may be over-kill for this application. I'm not coating the frame or underbody. Just want an easy but effective enough application for the cabin. By the way, the build sheet was intact! It was under the carpet in the rear cargo area.
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to you all!
Racer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 308
Likes: 2
From: South Italy
This my work in progress:
I have removed al the rust on the surface with the brush,and then I have removed the old seal and repalce it with a new one.
Here you can see the white stripe.
I have applied a rust converter and then I have sprayed the floor with "putty"(I don't know if is the correct world)
The heat insulator:
The job as done and the carpet is back
I have removed al the rust on the surface with the brush,and then I have removed the old seal and repalce it with a new one.
Here you can see the white stripe.
I have applied a rust converter and then I have sprayed the floor with "putty"(I don't know if is the correct world)
The heat insulator:
The job as done and the carpet is back
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Be careful of that "Light surface rust" on the floor pans. thats what mine had, it even still had most of the factory paint on them. I took the brush wheel to them and they were cheese cloth in places. I used phosphor then POR15 and a layer of glass on top and bottom. I want it to float
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia
I did por-15 on my floor pans.
Super easy! Just cleaned and scuffed and painted.
I don't know if I have the pics, but the stuff was hard as a rock after drying. If I can find the pics I will post them.
Got the stuff 4 free from a friend so don't know about the high cost part.
WEAR GLOVES! My buddy did not and boy that sucked!
Super easy! Just cleaned and scuffed and painted.
I don't know if I have the pics, but the stuff was hard as a rock after drying. If I can find the pics I will post them.
Got the stuff 4 free from a friend so don't know about the high cost part.
WEAR GLOVES! My buddy did not and boy that sucked!
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
I would use POR 15 also. You can buy it down to 1/2 pint cans I think. I've used it lots of times on frames, I'm sure the floor would work out well too.
I don't think it's an epoxy, you don't mix any activator into it, and it takes a long time to dry when compared to epoxy paint. I know it has isocyantes in it, so I try to not get any on me. It can take a week to get that stuff off your skin.
I don't think it's an epoxy, you don't mix any activator into it, and it takes a long time to dry when compared to epoxy paint. I know it has isocyantes in it, so I try to not get any on me. It can take a week to get that stuff off your skin.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
It's crazy stuff, I used it on my master cylinder, brake fluid doesn't even take it off. And yes don't get any on your hands and one more thing, ever try and open a used can of that stuff, took me 1/2 hour to pry the lid off 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
To get the most use out of a can of POR, do not open it - poke two holes on opposite sides of the top, pour out small amounts into a plastic (not foam) container and paint out of it. Plug the holes with screws right after pouring. This keeps air out of the can and prevents the paint from curing.
I've done this with one can that I've now used four times for small areas and the paint in the can is still fluid.
I've done this with one can that I've now used four times for small areas and the paint in the can is still fluid.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
Here's my '76:
Before
After
It'll be POR15 inside and outside, followed by factory-style body seal on the underside and locally inside. I never want to do this job again.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If the rust is just on the surface, you can put a coating of 'rust converter' on it to chemically change the rust into an inert coating. Then just slap on a coat of Rustoleum to seal it. Heck, it's all going to be under the carpet anyway...you just want to prevent more rust.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
There's a heavily customised blue '81 running around on a spaceframe chassis that's well known in these forums. Here's a website detailing the project, with a link to floorpan repair photos:
http://www.vettetech.com/projects/c3gs/c3gs.htm
That one's definitely metal.
Paragon sell floorpans listed for all years from '76 to '82:
http://www.corvette-paragon.com/p-35...or-pan-lh.aspx
So I don't know why yours are fibreglass.
Mine looked like fibreglass from inside the car because the person who 'repaired' 
them in the past just put a layer of fibreglass mat down over the rusty metal. It's only when I cleaned up the outside that I discovered mine were metal.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Winchester CA
If the rust is just on the surface, you can put a coating of 'rust converter' on it to chemically change the rust into an inert coating. Then just slap on a coat of Rustoleum to seal it. Heck, it's all going to be under the carpet anyway...you just want to prevent more rust.
Exactly! I think that may be the direction I'm going to go with.
