Top End Rebuild
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 3
From: Millersville, MD
Thanks for the kind words.
I would love to see your pics and video!
Do you have a parts list on what you installed?
We are planning on pulling the motor and starting to tear into it over the holiday weekend. I still really don't have any idea what we are going to find. It doesn't appear that the motor was ever rebuilt, but looks can be deceiving.
The compression test we did looked great, I can't for the life of me remember the numbers, I'm pretty sure they are with the rest of the cars documentation that I have.
I still haven't decided 100% that I'm going to rebuild the bottom end, I'll wait until I get things apart.
Kind of looking to get a price list together to see if I'll have to do this in stages, or if I can do it all at once.
Thanks again for your help,
-Chris
I would love to see your pics and video!
Do you have a parts list on what you installed?
We are planning on pulling the motor and starting to tear into it over the holiday weekend. I still really don't have any idea what we are going to find. It doesn't appear that the motor was ever rebuilt, but looks can be deceiving.
The compression test we did looked great, I can't for the life of me remember the numbers, I'm pretty sure they are with the rest of the cars documentation that I have.
I still haven't decided 100% that I'm going to rebuild the bottom end, I'll wait until I get things apart.
Kind of looking to get a price list together to see if I'll have to do this in stages, or if I can do it all at once.
Thanks again for your help,
-Chris
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
FYI,
remember you can get a Year One crate motor for $2990 that makes 400hp, has Vortec heads, decent roller cam and a warranty. Just throwing that out there as you are now getting into that $3k territory with a full rebuild. That Y1 motor would likely get you 250-275 rwhp and roller cam reliability. Save your original motor for the next owner.
remember you can get a Year One crate motor for $2990 that makes 400hp, has Vortec heads, decent roller cam and a warranty. Just throwing that out there as you are now getting into that $3k territory with a full rebuild. That Y1 motor would likely get you 250-275 rwhp and roller cam reliability. Save your original motor for the next owner.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 435
Likes: 18
From: Florida
FYI,
remember you can get a Year One crate motor for $2990 that makes 400hp, has Vortec heads, decent roller cam and a warranty. Just throwing that out there as you are now getting into that $3k territory with a full rebuild. That Y1 motor would likely get you 250-275 rwhp and roller cam reliability. Save your original motor for the next owner.
remember you can get a Year One crate motor for $2990 that makes 400hp, has Vortec heads, decent roller cam and a warranty. Just throwing that out there as you are now getting into that $3k territory with a full rebuild. That Y1 motor would likely get you 250-275 rwhp and roller cam reliability. Save your original motor for the next owner.
Or find something out of the recycler for a 5.3/5.7/6.0LS to drop in. Throw a carb and ignition box on it and call it a day.
Last edited by tt 383; Dec 17, 2009 at 03:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
I had considered the crate motor route for mb a half a second, but that just takes all of the fun out of the hobby.
Thanks for the tip on the heads, I never trust anything mass produced anyway and always pull things apart for inspection/cleaning before using them (that includes computers =)
The learning experience, time spent with my father, and the pride felt after doing this task makes it all worth it.
Thanks for the advice so far guys,
-Chris
Thanks for the tip on the heads, I never trust anything mass produced anyway and always pull things apart for inspection/cleaning before using them (that includes computers =)
The learning experience, time spent with my father, and the pride felt after doing this task makes it all worth it.
Thanks for the advice so far guys,
-Chris
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
There's no price which can be put on that.
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Advanced
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
From: Houston Tx
So what set up did you end up going with? You sound like me... Can do the work, just don't know how to pick the right parts that work together to make a great build.
Hopefully I can get the courage to finally pull the trigger on something like you did. Your engine looks good.
Hopefully I can get the courage to finally pull the trigger on something like you did. Your engine looks good.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 3
From: Millersville, MD
So what set up did you end up going with? You sound like me... Can do the work, just don't know how to pick the right parts that work together to make a great build.
Hopefully I can get the courage to finally pull the trigger on something like you did. Your engine looks good.
Hopefully I can get the courage to finally pull the trigger on something like you did. Your engine looks good.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
I went with the 180cc intake, and 65cc chamber.
The cam is the XE268h from comp cams.
I didn't end up buying any of the complete kits, I pieced parts together instead. It's pretty tough to read through everyones opinions, but I think I managed (Guess I'll find out when I get to drive it). I did buy the TH350 rebuild kit from Monster Transmission (I have mixed feelings about that decision).
The weekend can't come fast enough!
The cam is the XE268h from comp cams.
I didn't end up buying any of the complete kits, I pieced parts together instead. It's pretty tough to read through everyones opinions, but I think I managed (Guess I'll find out when I get to drive it). I did buy the TH350 rebuild kit from Monster Transmission (I have mixed feelings about that decision).
The weekend can't come fast enough!
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 3
From: Millersville, MD
I went with the 180cc intake, and 65cc chamber.
The cam is the XE268h from comp cams.
I didn't end up buying any of the complete kits, I pieced parts together instead. It's pretty tough to read through everyones opinions, but I think I managed (Guess I'll find out when I get to drive it). I did buy the TH350 rebuild kit from Monster Transmission (I have mixed feelings about that decision).
The weekend can't come fast enough!
The cam is the XE268h from comp cams.
I didn't end up buying any of the complete kits, I pieced parts together instead. It's pretty tough to read through everyones opinions, but I think I managed (Guess I'll find out when I get to drive it). I did buy the TH350 rebuild kit from Monster Transmission (I have mixed feelings about that decision).
The weekend can't come fast enough!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
I'm at 9.6:1 with 3.55s in the rear.
I hope to have at least a bit more power than stock, but even if it didn't, at least those AFR's look AWESOME
It would be interesting to compare our dyno results.
-Chris
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Engine looks great - congratulations!
At .462/.469 lift, the cam is leaving a fair bit of flow on the table with those heads.
Relatively mild cam + relatively large cross-section runners = poor low-speed throttle response and mushy power peak.
The XE 268 at .477/.480 is better, but still leaving flow on the table.
Buying AFR heads, which are the very best out there, means making the decision to use a cam that will take full advantage of them...otherwise just buy a lower-end head to match the cam.
That said - make sure you check the timing curve first thing, then a carb tune. Tuning makes a HUGE difference and should be part of the budget for any top or build.
Relatively mild cam + relatively large cross-section runners = poor low-speed throttle response and mushy power peak.
The XE 268 at .477/.480 is better, but still leaving flow on the table.
Buying AFR heads, which are the very best out there, means making the decision to use a cam that will take full advantage of them...otherwise just buy a lower-end head to match the cam.
That said - make sure you check the timing curve first thing, then a carb tune. Tuning makes a HUGE difference and should be part of the budget for any top or build.
Last edited by billla; Jun 10, 2010 at 10:12 AM.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 3
From: Millersville, MD
Engine looks great - congratulations!
At .462/.469 lift, the cam is leaving a fair bit of flow on the table with those heads.
Relatively mild cam + relatively large cross-section runners = poor low-speed throttle response and mushy power peak.
The XE 268 at .477/.480 is better, but still leaving flow on the table.
Buying AFR heads, which are the very best out there, means making the decision to use a cam that will take full advantage of them...otherwise just buy a lower-end head to match the cam.
That said - make sure you check the timing curve first thing, then a carb tune. Tuning makes a HUGE difference and should be part of the budget for any top or build.
At .462/.469 lift, the cam is leaving a fair bit of flow on the table with those heads.
Relatively mild cam + relatively large cross-section runners = poor low-speed throttle response and mushy power peak.
The XE 268 at .477/.480 is better, but still leaving flow on the table.
Buying AFR heads, which are the very best out there, means making the decision to use a cam that will take full advantage of them...otherwise just buy a lower-end head to match the cam.
That said - make sure you check the timing curve first thing, then a carb tune. Tuning makes a HUGE difference and should be part of the budget for any top or build.
Last edited by Vette79C3; Jun 10, 2010 at 01:37 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
The AFR streets deliver 260/207 CFM flow at .500...so I certainly wouldn't do anything less than that for lift. A .500 lift cam in a flat-tappet is fairly radical, but a roller hydraulic is just getting started
What trans and gears do you have? That helps with the other aspects of the cam choice. I would also call AFR and the cam vendors to get their takes...and of course a lot of smart folks here with good guidance.
Last edited by billla; Jun 10, 2010 at 02:09 PM.