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Automatic Shifter Problems

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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Default Automatic Shifter Problems

1976 automatic car will not shift into park. Shifter says car is in park but car is actually in reverse. I have inspected the shifter and all cables and don't see anything broken. Dont see any obvious adjustment. Any help welcomed.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by C3-76
1976 automatic car will not shift into park. Shifter says car is in park but car is actually in reverse. I have inspected the shifter and all cables and don't see anything broken. Dont see any obvious adjustment. Any help welcomed.
Here's a pic of my '76's TH-350 in the Park position.... maybe this will help you out...



http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...acement001.jpg
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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It probably needs to be adjusted. I'm sure someone on here knows how.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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Your shift cable is binding up. It is moving far enough to change the indicator (right there at the console), but is binding up before it can move the shift valve at the left side of the tranny housing. To verify, just look under the car while someone else shifts the shift handle [car is not running, or course]. The shift lever [at the tranny] will move fine until it gets to the reverse position, is my bet.

Causes of this can be the lubrication of the cable, a broken/loose mounting point on the cable assembly....or it can be due to a malfunction inside the tranny which is preventing the full movement of the shift valve ...not a good thing. Hopefully, it's not the latter item.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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7T1vette you are correct. I got under the car and had my son shift from park to drive and back to park. The pin on the tranny is not being moved into the park position. I can push it into park with my hand. What lubricant should be used on the cable?

Last edited by C3-76; Dec 22, 2009 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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Watch the cable as you move it into Park and see if the cable flexes/bends. It should not. If it does, there is some retainer no doing its job. The end of that cable...before it gets to the shift lever on the side of the tranny...is attached to a bracket that is mounted to the oil pan rail with two of the oil pan bolts. Make sure that those bolts are not loose and that the retainer plate is not moving when you actuate the cable.

You can extend the cable as far as it will go (pull it by hand into Park, if you can), push back the outer end of the corrugated dust boot on the cable [so you can see the cable], then put some grease around the cable that sticks out of the sheath. Actuate the shifter again several times and see if it loosens any. To do anything more, you will have to remove the upper plate on the transmission tunnel so that you have access to the upper end of the cable/sheath. If you do that, you can attempt to squirt some lube into the cable sheath and let it run down into the cable. Again, exercise the cable as you are doing so. If you don't see anything loose at the upper end of the cable and none of your lubing helps your problem, you are due to replace that tranny cable. Once you have the tranny tunnel opened up, it's fairly easy to exchange that cable.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Watch the cable as you move it into Park and see if the cable flexes/bends. It should not. If it does, there is some retainer no doing its job. The end of that cable...before it gets to the shift lever on the side of the tranny...is attached to a bracket that is mounted to the oil pan rail with two of the oil pan bolts. Make sure that those bolts are not loose and that the retainer plate is not moving when you actuate the cable.

You can extend the cable as far as it will go (pull it by hand into Park, if you can), push back the outer end of the corrugated dust boot on the cable [so you can see the cable], then put some grease around the cable that sticks out of the sheath. Actuate the shifter again several times and see if it loosens any. To do anything more, you will have to remove the upper plate on the transmission tunnel so that you have access to the upper end of the cable/sheath. If you do that, you can attempt to squirt some lube into the cable sheath and let it run down into the cable. Again, exercise the cable as you are doing so. If you don't see anything loose at the upper end of the cable and none of your lubing helps your problem, you are due to replace that tranny cable. Once you have the tranny tunnel opened up, it's fairly easy to exchange that cable.

I have that cable.... in great shape!!!

If you need it, let me know. Mine is a TH-350 (as I said before)...



By the way, here's a pic I found from the Shifter end of that cable. Just FYI..

http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Shifter001.jpg

Last edited by dobroman2001; Dec 22, 2009 at 02:49 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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Guys, help me out. What is the cable that runs from the shift pin bracket on the tranny to the fire wall under the brake booster. I can pull up on this cable and the car will go into park. Tried lubing both cables with no success. I will look at it again on Wednesday. Oh yea, when tranny is in nutural the back up lights are on.

dobroman2001, do you have both cables?

Last edited by C3-76; Dec 22, 2009 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:22 PM
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The cable going to the fire wall is the steering wheel lock when in park.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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thanks 76yellow... I will find the problem with the park issue. It may be after Christmas.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by C3-76
Guys, help me out. What is the cable that runs from the shift pin bracket on the tranny to the fire wall under the brake booster. I can pull up on this cable and the car will go into park. Tried lubing both cables with no success. I will look at it again on Wednesday. Oh yea, when tranny is in nutural the back up lights are on.

dobroman2001, do you have both cables?

Hey C3,

I thought I had both cables but I just checked and the only one I have is the Interlock cable (goes to the steering column)... see link below. "69-77 w/Auto Steering Column Interlock Cable"

Tab,



http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={362ccf20-aeee-45aa-8a65-5f3fbb042491}&gid={f4c47d47-ec86-48c8-8f0f-7a745c3b7708}&GroupName=Column+Firewall% 2c+Mounting+%26+Interlock&pname=69-77+w%2fAuto+Steering+Column+Interlock+Ca ble&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&

Last edited by dobroman2001; Dec 22, 2009 at 10:34 PM. Reason: change
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 04:43 AM
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If you haven't lifted the console plate yet, your primary problem might still be there. If any of the cable restraints have loosened, that would cause the slack in the cable. If you haven't taken that plate off before, we can give you tips on how that is best done.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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I have the shift cable ordered. It should arrive on Monday. Any tips on how to install are very welcomed. Does the console have to be removed? From what I can see the console could be left in place?
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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Console can be left on; top plate must be removed. I'm not positive about it, but I think the shifter mechanism needs to come loose to install the cable. It helps if you take digital photos of existing hook-ups and if you have the AIM for your year car (section on M-40 transmission in the back).
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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i just did this last month on my 77......i had to take the center console between the seats out and the side covers have to come off. make sure you square away the neutral safety switch before you put everything back together. this is not hard but it was work....that cable is a PITA and those little clips that hold it in the brackets are a pain, you may want to buy new ones. the shifter bracket does not get loosened
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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Guys, Thanks for the help. The parts supplier messed me up the first time-local supplier. Sold me a part that would not work. The second try was much better. Got the right part. I did not have to remove the console but did have to take the shifter out of the car. You are correct this job is a PITA. The shift cable takes about 30 minutes. Getting the console top off and the heat/ac controls out of the way takes another two hours. THANKS!!! nothing like help that has been there.

Tim
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