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Well, Winter is here, and I finally had some down time to pull the rear apart. Had some clunking going on when shifting, mostly light shifting is when I could feel it. Heard a lot of opinions from qualified sources, but my gut said it was the front differential mount rubber bushing.
Not to say many of the other bushings wern't shot as suggested, and will be replaced, but when I took all the external crap off the Diff, Ah ha!, I could clearly see a gap of at least 1/4" between the rubber and the frame. (BTW, what a bear to break loose)
Still need to drop the rear crossmember, but that's not coming down so easy. Noticed a few threads on that subject, so I will keep at it until she drops.
So the question is what to replace the front mount with, Rubber or Poly? I want it stiff to keep all the torque to the wheels. Oh, and how much do you tighten the mount?
Any and all advice considered. Thanks and Happy New Year to the Forum.
I would go with polyurethane. Only downfall is a little more noise from the rear. You will get more diff whine from the rear. may or may not be annoying. But, you never have to replace it again.
What is the recommneded tightness on this one? Should I tighten until I see a little mushrooming from the mount? Not sure if the poly will show the same effect as rubber?
You should actually be checking the angle of the rear end to the angle of the tranny. You may have to shave the bushing some to get the proper relationship. Too much down angle on the rear will cause a vibration and rapid U-joint wear.
The type of material used has no effect on torque being transmitted to the wheels.
Any movement from the pumkin can start wheelhop,and that affects traction,same as leafspring wrapup just less severe.And poly alows less movement than rubber.
Last edited by forvicjr; Dec 30, 2009 at 07:52 PM.
Reason: spelling
The type of material used has no effect on torque being transmitted to the wheels.
Hi Mike, I see you on many threads imparting your wisdom, and the controversy that usually follows. You may want to change your approach...like the other poster that correctly interpreted what I couldn't find the words to say.
Anyway, I found the torque value in a chassis manual, and it says 50 ft lbs. You agree, or have a better answer?
I will also check the angles, after tightening, as suggested earlier
Any movement from the pumkin can start wheelhop,and that affects traction,same as leafspring wrapup just less severe.And poly alows less movement than rubber.
No problem,was waiting on the answer to your question also, didnt know there was a torq setting.Pulled mine down just after it started to crush(poly). Guess Ill torq to 50 on my next trip to the garage
Hi Mike, I see you on many threads imparting your wisdom, and the controversy that usually follows. You may want to change your approach...like the other poster that correctly interpreted what I couldn't find the words to say.
Anyway, I found the torque value in a chassis manual, and it says 50 ft lbs. You agree, or have a better answer?
I will also check the angles, after tightening, as suggested earlier
Have a great day.
My answer stands as-is. I make a point not to second guess (interpret) what people are saying- or trying to say. I've seen many people falsely believe that rubber motor mounts 'absorb' torque and switch to solid mounts to avoid 'losing' it.
If you are worried about wheel hop on a hard launch, there's very little difference in the compressibility of a poly or rubber bushing at the front of the diff when properly installed and torqued. I suppose a debate could be started at to whether the slight dampening feature of the rubber would be beneficial or not but much like other recent (and now deleted topics) it's academic.
[QUOTE=kellyr073;1572589508]Hi Mike, I see you on many threads imparting your wisdom, and the controversy that usually follows. You may want to change your approach...like the other poster that correctly interpreted what I couldn't find the words to say.
Hi Mike, I see you on many threads imparting your wisdom, and the controversy that usually follows. You may want to change your approach...like the other poster that correctly interpreted what I couldn't find the words to say.
:o
"controversy that usually follows" Yaw not talkin about me arya???
sorry mike for the spelling!!!
Last edited by forvicjr; Dec 30, 2009 at 10:17 PM.
Reason: Add on
Hi Mike, I see you on many threads imparting your wisdom, and the controversy that usually follows. You may want to change your approach...like the other poster that correctly interpreted what I couldn't find the words to say.
I think the controversy starts because Mike always seems to have an attitude when he responds. I have noticed it over the years and have just ignored it.
Well Im glad to know Im not the only one with this opinion
Some things cant be ignored,guess my patience is shorter than most. Now watch this thread get deleted also.. Some people just cant take the truth
Well Im glad to know Im not the only one with this opinion
Some things cant be ignored,guess my patience is shorter than most. Now watch this thread get deleted also.. Some people just cant take the truth
Same here, I thought I may have been reading to much into his post and didn't want to say anything.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by kellyr073
I saw the two larger disks before. I assume the go under the crossmember bolts. The smaller one, I assume is for the front mount, correct?
Whats the theory behind this setup? Is it worth the $?
Yes, the larger ones bolt in beneath the diff crossmember attachments and the small one replaces the front cushion.
To quote Guldstrand, "These aluminium discs help eliminate crossmember movement caused by large tires, high cornering loads and engine torque."
They might not be for everyone, but IMCO they're worthwile for my application. If there's any additional noise or vibration, I've never been able to tell over the engines I've had. ...not that I'd care.