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I downloaded Comp Cams "Cam Quest" desktop tool to help make a decission. It works great and it's fun to play with differenct scenarios. Of course it only shows Comp cams, but you can still get an idea of the specs that work for you.
Can you describe what you mean by "too much cam for my wife as a daily driver with the converter"?
That cam isnt really huge for a 454, although its plenty noticeable.
Your converter should be fine with it if it has a 2000rpm stall speed.
Are you looking for something with a smooth idle?
It a little too lopey and the idle is 900. Looking at Lunati 60201 or 60202s...just want something that pulls really clean..couple of steps up over a stock cam.
It a little too lopey and the idle is 900. Looking at Lunati 60201 or 60202s...just want something that pulls really clean..couple of steps up over a stock cam.
just my .02*
another plus to going with a custom cam grinder , he can make it run like a stocker till 3000 or whatever you want ...then bring in all the horses
It a little too lopey and the idle is 900. Looking at Lunati 60201 or 60202s...just want something that pulls really clean..couple of steps up over a stock cam.
The 60201 is too small IMO. Its very similar duration wise to a stock LS5 cam.
I bet the 60202 would be what you are looking for.
You should be able to hear the cam if you pay attention, but it wont have an obvious lope.
I like Isky's Mega 270/280 cam as a replacement for the LS-5 cam since it works with stock stall and compression. It has slightly larger Adv durations but better @.050 and lift. Nice lope in a 396, a little chuckle in a 427 and should be fairly docile in a 454. It has wide LSA for vacuum and idle quality, I took it out of my 427/390 engine for a SFT but now it's going back in.
My compression based upon head work, gaskets and pistons is about 10.6/1 Is there a better recommendation now that that number is on the table? Should have thrown that out there first I suppose......
My compression based upon head work, gaskets and pistons is about 10.6/1 Is there a better recommendation now that that number is on the table? Should have thrown that out there first I suppose......
Im actually surprised that your getting away with that much compression even with your current cam.
Big blocks with iron heads start to have detonation issues with much over 10:1 compression even with bigger cams than what your running. I would try to find a cam that doesnt close the intake valve any sooner than the one that you are currently running. That way your dynamic compression wont go up. Your current cam, per Comps info, closes the intake valve 63° abdc.
You will probably need to look at some older cam designs to do that while lowering your .050" duration at the same time.
Take a look at Lunati's 302A6. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-302A6LUN/ I bet it would do what you need.
Originally Posted by badrad
Isky's 281/292-14 cam might bleed odd enough cylinder pressure to keep you from pinging while still idling well. It has 58* of overlap.
If you are implying that overlap has anything to do with bleeding off cylinder pressure, you are incorrect.
Last edited by DRIVESHAFT; Jan 12, 2010 at 10:38 PM.
It a little too lopey and the idle is 900. Looking at Lunati 60201 or 60202s...just want something that pulls really clean..couple of steps up over a stock cam.
IMO - The cheapest easiest thing to do is to pull the timing cover and retard the cam timing 4 degrees. Them recourve the distributer to about 16-18 degrees initial without vacuum advance and end up with about 38 degrees total at 3000 rpm. Get the Crane adjustable vac adv pot on the dist and set it to a max of about 8 degrees. tune your idle screws in with a vacuum gauge
All lope will be gone and the big ol 460 with pull from low rpm
air gaps have a cut down center divider that makes it idle worse. Exhaust enters intake during overlap. Guys sometimes like the lope, but it is just gasping for clean air.
( ...this EGR can also reduce pinging with high 10.6:1)
When i fully separated the high & low plane, the idle cleaned up real nice, so u could try a preformer with a full height center divider and a 4 hole gasket.
This will widen the power curve all the way down to near idle at least it did for me.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
With a CR in the 10.6:1 neighborhood, you can't very well reduce duration (you might actually could use a little more if you don't wish to retard the cam), and IMCO you're a good candidate for a bit wider LSA than the typical 110*, whatever cam grind you go with. Increasing LSA would not only help tame it's manners, but would also flatten out the torque curve. For my money, I just wouldn't compromise with an off-the-shelf cam if a custom grind is necessary to get it right (in the big picture they don't cost all that much more).
sure a new custom cam can be tried.
but any cam with significant overlap is going to have a worse idle with the high & low plane connected.
So, if it was my car, i'd weld up the air gap center divider and use a 4 hole gasket. If it pings i'd reduce base timing 3 or 4*.
Only if i couldn't stop ping on a hot day, with cold air induction, or other timing adjustmets, would i use gkulls good idea to retard the cam.
All this takes some time, but not much $$$.
If it doesn't work out, then i'd be convinced it needs a new cam.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I'll agree with Matt that full isolation may likely help to a degree and is worth a shot, but I'm afraid less overlap may still be necessary. Depends a lot on just how much you really want to tame it down...