I did the "timing sticky" process this afternoon. If I understand it correctly, I set my initial at 8* and I had 25* all in, that makes 17* from weights. Does that sound right? I read another thread that says I should set my initial at 16*? So I think that would give me with 17* more from weights. 33* total all in? Am I following this correctly and what base number should I use? I want the engine to run strong but I dont want pinging, slow cranking, poor mpg. ect. Its a factorty stock motor/car with the following changes.. Holley carb, HEI dist, 4-speed conversion and no ecs? ect? system connected<whatever that sender in the r/s head is? I think was originaly related to timing? its gone. Thanks for any advice. This car WILL be on the road soon! Much because of this Forum!

 

you dont really "set" your initial. you let it fall where it may. you set the all in at be 36* at 2500-3000 rpms (forget the exact rpm without looking it up) with the vacuum advance unhooked and plugged. then you initial is whereever it ends up. 8* is what is on the sticker under the hood. you may have to get a spring kit to get the all in before the specified rpms.

 

Not to leave it to assumption: The softer the advance springs, the quicker will come in full mechanical advance, and the more likely is spark knock if you're build is marginal for the octane you'll be running. That said, you want it in as soon as you can get away with, just make sure you can get away with it. Also, you don't really need a lot of initial (I'm talking 16-20*) unless you've got a bit of a cam.

With only 17* total mechanical available, if you don't have that large of a cam I'd consider having your dizzy re-curved so you can have an initial, advance rate and total advance appropriate to your engine. A good distributor shop will have a good idea what to do based on your specs.

 

On my 74 350 I get 24* of advance out of my distributor mechanical advance at 3,000 RPM.
I used a combination of springs to get that much advance. My initial falls at 12* with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. That gives me initial of 12* plus 24* mechanical for a total of 36*. At cruise I get an additional 16* from the vacuum advance, that gives me a total of 52*.
If you only get 17* mechanical advance then do as TSW suggested and find someone with a sun machine and see if you have the wrong stop bushing in your distributor or if the stop plate has been modified.

 

Ok so if I set it for 36* all in, I think that will put initial at 19*? Will that be ok? I'll recheck how much I getting from the weights, it was kinda tricky holding the light, pushing the button on it, adjusting the dail and holding the rpm's up all at the same time by myself. Right now with it at 8* my tach gear is into the intake and I will have to pull it and to correct that, but if 19* is ok and where it ends up the cable may fit then. Thanks!

 

There is a "stop" pin on the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor. There is a bushing that fits tightly onto it. The pin and bushing set up the maximum limit of travel for the mechanical system. It appears that your mech advance system is binding-up or the bushing is too large a diameter and is limiting how much advance you mechanical system can produce.

First, determine if there is any binding of parts in that system's movement. If so, free it up and retry setting the mech advance. If it is already operating freely, remove that stop bushing and install a smaller diameter bushing so that it will allow the advance plate to move farther. You should be able to get 24 degrees movement from the mech advance system. This will allow you to set the max. advance at 34-36 degrees (reduce that value if you get pinging at WOT test); then, the 'initial'/base advance setting should be in the area 12-16 degrees.

Question: You are revving the engine beyond 3000 rpm, aren't you? When it states that you want max mech advance "all in" by 3000 rpm, that means that beyond 3000 rpm the mechanical advance will not increase the advance setting any further. If you did not understand that point, that is your problem and you need to start over.

 

I gotta recheck the mech advance, it looked to me like it had stopped advancing but i was in a heck possition trying to do it all at once.. first I gotta re-stab the dist. <maybe? I had to turn it so far to get 8* it put the cable gear pointing wrong, setting it higher will help that so maybe not> so I can get my tach cable hooked up and know where I at. I was guessing 2500-3000k by ear. Thanks a lot I'll get further with it after work..