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Here is a picture of my engine. As you can see, I have a PCV valve on the back of my passenger side valve cover and a breather on the driver's side valve cover. I have to tape the lower half of the breather or I'll douse my engine in oil. The valve covers have no baffles. I pulled the breather and held my hand over the hole while the car idled for about a minute. When I removed my hand, a whoosh of air came out of the valve cover. I have positive crankcase pressure at idle. This engine is getting tired and I shouldn't have used molly rings when I honed and rebuilt. Forged pistons are a little loose too. But I was thinking of putting a second PCV valve on the driver's side valve cover. Has anyone done this? Will it help? Do I have a problem?
Bee Jay
Are you sure the PCV valve is working? Pull it ou with the engine running and see if there's vacuum at the hole in the bottom of the valve.
PCV valve is working and is baffled internally. I was thinking of adding a second PCV in place of the breather. Maybe with two, I could actually create a crankcase vacuum. Right now it's a positive pressure.
Bee Jay
I really did like your 1/2 drive battery powered impact wrench present for Christmas. It sure makes those wheel changes at the track easier!
If I had your money and wanted to pickup some cheap extra HP. I would get an electric vacuum pump.
Hey G-Cool. Sears finally got them in stock and I got mine Monday. I immediately tested it on lug nuts torqued down to 100 lbs ft. It works great, compact and lightweight too. I bet it would be handy around the track. These 19.2 volt batteries can keep a charge. They make a cordless 19.2 volt sabre saw too. Maybe that is next. They also make a cordless sawsall, just in case you want to do a Jack Baur, 24, amputation.
How much HP does an electric vacuum pump make? Is it used a lot on track vehicles?
I can't add anything else electric until I upgrade my alternator.
Bee Jay
PCV valve is working and is baffled internally. I was thinking of adding a second PCV in place of the breather. Maybe with two, I could actually create a crankcase vacuum. Right now it's a positive pressure.
Bee Jay
Sorry, but it won't work that way. Well, it will at idle, but not anywhere else. Once you go off idle, the PCV will begin to shut as manifold vacuum diminishes. There's a spring in that canister and all PCVs have a calibration based upon the spring. What will happen with no breather is once the PCVs close, you will just build up pressure in the crankcase. This will eventually force the PCVs open, but with low manifold vacuum, there's not much pull on the hoses to adequately evacuate the crankcase pressure. The purpose of the breather is to cross-ventilate and to give crankcase pressure somewhere to go under low manifold vacuum. And while a closed system may seem to make you a conformist to the EPA Gods, it's actually beneficial since there is a low-pressure area inside the air cleaner and this will help pull those gasses into the carb and keep them from misting your engine while keeping crankcase pressure in check.
Obviously better cylinder sealing would help, but a more effective breather (one with a baffle) would help a lot right now.
Most race cars have a similar setup as to what is shown down the page of the complete front motor view. Not cheap, but very functional. Call them and have then give a kit quote and then call summit tech support and give them the kit part number and get a quote.
For best results, the PCV valve should be on the driver's side and the breather on the passenger side. If the breather still leaks, it is because you have no baffles under the connections for the breather and/or the PCV valve. You really need baffles under those areas to keep oil splash from hitting those components directly. You can run a tube from the breather hole to someplace on the air cleaner (to eliminate the breather and any oil vapor problem in the engine compartment), but the inlet fitting to the valve cover must be baffled.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Yea make sure that is a PCV valve you have there on the passenger side
I have seen breathers ( just bought one ) that look exactly like from the top that have no pcv inside, it is a breather and it is supposed to connect to the air cleaner.
And they have one that looks exactly the same from the top and it has a PCV inside. I know you probably already checked this but some times things slip by
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
For best results, the PCV valve should be on the driver's side and the breather on the passenger side. If the breather still leaks, it is because you have no baffles under the connections for the breather and/or the PCV valve. You really need baffles under those areas to keep oil splash from hitting those components directly. You can run a tube from the breather hole to someplace on the air cleaner (to eliminate the breather and any oil vapor problem in the engine compartment), but the inlet fitting to the valve cover must be baffled.
I think you can get breathers with baffles built in. I have bought grommets that are supposed to work as baffles but never had success with them
That does not look like a PCV on the passenger side and the breather on the driver side is duct-taped??
It's a PCV breather. Note the hose comming out of it going to the fuel injection throttle body. I am considering two PCV breathers, and replacing the breather on the drivers side. The duct tape over the lower half of the breather limits the oil spilling out.
Bee Jay
Have you tried using a regular PCV, I had a PCV like the one you have on your vette and they don't really last long. I went with, I believe it was a '97 Suburban, PCV on mine and haven't had any problem.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by Bee Jay
It's a PCV breather. Note the hose comming out of it going to the fuel injection throttle body. I am considering two PCV breathers, and replacing the breather on the drivers side. The duct tape over the lower half of the breather limits the oil spilling out.
Bee Jay
So you are positive that there is PCV valve in there, never heard or PCV breather seems that would be defeating the purpose of attaching a manifold vacuum line to it ? Why not get a $3 stock PCV and see if your problem goes away ?
Last edited by MotorHead; Jan 21, 2010 at 08:23 PM.
"I pulled the breather and held my hand over the hole while the car idled for about a minute. When I removed my hand, a whoosh of air came out of the valve cover. I have positive crankcase pressure at idle. "
There in lies you answer, you have excess crankcase pressure, probabaly due to weak rings. No quick and dirty fix, Sorry
So you are positive that there is PCV valve in there, never heard or PCV breather seems that would be defeating the purpose of attaching a manifold vacuum line to it ? Why not get a $3 stock PCV and see if your problem goes away ?
Kwplot suggested that this would help my oil leaking out of the breather problem:
So, I gathered a few materials this evening:
1/4" bolts, aluminum tubing, and some aluminum sheeting. Then I built this:
This is what I see thru the breather hole now:
It's late, and I have to go to Sacramento for the weekend. I'll start and drive the car next week and let everyone know how it worked out.
Bee Jay
That aint gunna help! oil mist filled blow by vapor pressure at wide open throttle and neither is additional PVC lines that don't function at low manifold vacuum.
Older race cars that are not allowed to fancy modern vacuum pumps resort to large diameter lines to a remote vented puke can.
you should use a valve cover with a baffle built in, a PVC is standard on drivers side.
Those open element K&N breathers always throw oil mist into the engine compartment.
Easy fix, cut off a sock top, and keep that over the K&N breather, change it as needed.
69VETT