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As many of you know, the tip of the input shaft rides in a bushing in the crank called the pilot bushing. Many mechanics doing your average clutch job are too lazy to replace this because it is a bugger to get out. This can cause drastic failure in the future if the bushing is worn due to vibration because the crank and input shaft will stop rotating about a common axis. Here is a nice and easy trick to get it out...
1. Fill the center of the pilot bushing with heavy duty axle grease.
2. find a flat punch or chisel handle that is barely smaller than the inside diameter of the pilot bushing.
3. Position the punch over the grease in the hole
4. hit it with a rubber mallet-- the bushing pops right out due to hydraulic pressure in the grease! Enjoy!
As many of you know, the tip of the input shaft rides in a bushing in the crank called the pilot bushing. Many mechanics doing your average clutch job are too lazy to replace this because it is a bugger to get out. This can cause drastic failure in the future if the bushing is worn due to vibration because the crank and input shaft will stop rotating about a common axis. Here is a nice and easy trick to get it out...
1. Fill the center of the pilot bushing with heavy duty axle grease.
2. find a flat punch or chisel handle that is barely smaller than the inside diameter of the pilot bushing.
3. Position the punch over the grease in the hole
4. hit it with a rubber mallet-- the bushing pops right out due to hydraulic pressure in the grease! Enjoy!
Sounds possible to me, Just wear eye protection and keep ur mouth closed..
Sounds possible to me, Just wear eye protection and keep ur mouth closed..
It is, I have successfully done it twice.. but yes wear some clothes you dont care about... first time I did it I splattered grease on a shirt I actually liked!
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
There are various different methods, that is one I never tried because it always seems the bushing is in there too tight.
When I was putting my 427ci together the shop put in a normal pilot bearing to polish my new crank. I told them I had to put a roller bearing in there because that's what the TKO 600 calls for. They ended up cutting the bearing out with a small cutoff wheel or grinder, (not sure because I was not there ) it was in there so tight. This is a friend of mine's shop who has been in the business for 30 years they know all the tricks
Last edited by MotorHead; Jan 28, 2010 at 01:35 PM.
As many of you know, the tip of the input shaft rides in a bushing in the crank called the pilot bushing. Many mechanics doing your average clutch job are too lazy to replace this because it is a bugger to get out. This can cause drastic failure in the future if the bushing is worn due to vibration because the crank and input shaft will stop rotating about a common axis. Here is a nice and easy trick to get it out...
1. Fill the center of the pilot bushing with heavy duty axle grease.
2. find a flat punch or chisel handle that is barely smaller than the inside diameter of the pilot bushing.
3. Position the punch over the grease in the hole
4. hit it with a rubber mallet-- the bushing pops right out due to hydraulic pressure in the grease! Enjoy!
Been doing it this way for over 40 years. I usually use a wooden dowel that is fairly snug in the pilot bushing. Doesn't matter how tight the bushing is - if you do it right, hydraulics will always win!
I use a taperd/notched 5/8-NC bolt like how Car Craft described in about 1978. It has worked on many Chevies I have owned over the years and is WAY LESS messy than the grease trick.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by pws69
Been doing it this way for over 40 years. I usually use a wooden dowel that is fairly snug in the pilot bushing. Doesn't matter how tight the bushing is - if you do it right, hydraulics will always win!
So it works every time ? They didn't need to risk damaging $1000 crank they could have just whacked it out with a wooden dowel ? I'm going to have to show my friend this thread. His shop has probably removed thousands over 30 years, would save him some time and aggravation I would assume if it worked every time, thanks
They ended up cutting the bearing out with a small cutoff wheel or grinder, (not sure because I was not there ) it was in there so tight. This is a friend of mine's shop who has been in the business for 30 years they know all the tricks
Not to bash on your friend but this sounds like an exceptionally dangerous way to remove a pilot bearing... any damage to the crank from a grinder/cutoff disk would warrant a new crank. the hydraulic method WILL work every time and it really isnt that messy. With the experience your friend has i am sure he is an expert at grinding the bushings out... but please for my peace of mind tell him this method. I am sure he will really like it and the fact that there is no risk of damage to ANY parts, eg the crank or even the bushing being replaced, and were talking about maybe a gram or so of grease. also, no fancy expensive tools to buy which can slip and damage the crank or bearing.
I agree also that a wooden dowel is the best item to use to actually actuate the bearing out of the slot.
As shown in my cheesy ms paint diagram... this method cannot fail... nor can it damage the parts. Cheers!
This method won't work for the newer LS-style engines. There is a freeze plug at the end of the crank and forcing grease in will dislodge the plug, causing an oil leak.
I found this out as I was cutting a dowel to fit into my LS1 pilot bushing. My son looked up the procedure online and stopped me ~5 minutes before I ruined my day.
I use a taperd/notched 5/8-NC bolt like how Car Craft described in about 1978. It has worked on many Chevies I have owned over the years and is WAY LESS messy than the grease trick.
From: Melbourne, Fla. 6 months- New Middletown, Ohio 6 months
There is a special tool you can use to keep the grease from getting all over you. It is called a shop rag! You wrap it around the punch and hold it in place with your hand!!!
I have had some luck with this procedure but it did not work with one bearing that was really tight. Had to use a bearing puller. Thought I was going to break the fingers off the puller.
I used damped toilet paper instead of grease on my 66 GTO bearing. I couldn't get it out so my dad told me to try this and it worked. Same principle I guess.
I've done it that way on about seven cranks. I only had troubles with one....but it eventually came out.
One other tip I can add is if the dowel is slightly loose in the bushing, cut a 1" wide strip of paper and wrap it around the dowel, or whatever your using, until the dowel has a tight fit...tight enough that it requires a tap with a small hammer to get it in....then get out the big hammer and give it a good solid whack.....it'll pop right out. I've used this method several times
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by Red 71
There is a special tool you can use to keep the grease from getting all over you. It is called a shop rag! You wrap it around the punch and hold it in place with your hand!!!
I have had some luck with this procedure but it did not work with one bearing that was really tight. Had to use a bearing puller. Thought I was going to break the fingers off the puller.
Hmmm so you have used this method but it didn't work for a really tight bearing and had to use a bearing puller. I wonder if anyone has not been able to get it out with the puller either and had to.. oh I don't know..grind it out or drill it out ?
I use a taperd/notched 5/8-NC bolt like how Car Craft described in about 1978. It has worked on many Chevies I have owned over the years and is WAY LESS messy than the grease trick.
This is the easiest and fastest way to remove the bushing.
I've used the grease method many times and it works very well but only if I want to save the bushing.(wooden dowel)