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Lazy headlights? Here's a tip

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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:41 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Here's the thread where I supposedly 'flamed' the poster. If any of you find this beyond your tolerance level, please please block me.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...s-already.html

BTW- you made no mention of spraying all the ports, just the two ports of the actuator. WD40 is NOT a rubber conditioner.
Mike - I never called you out; never even mentioned you. You seem to just know that it is you who has conflict so often with me and others on this forum that you feel compelled to defend yourself. I'm just responding to your condescending remarks. If you want to look up history of defamatory post I’m sure yours is long.

The OP offered a fix and I confirmed that it has worked many times.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #22  
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I have no 'conflict' with you. You gave advice that I strongly disagree with, and the reasons why.

Big deal. Get over it.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #23  
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Not that Mike needs defending, but he came to my aid when I was shimming my front rotors and someone was "questioning" my need to do so. It's not unusual when you post to have half the posters agreeing and the other half "flaming" . . . it's all a part of the fun. I always appreciate hearing the other views . . . helps me make educated decisions!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #24  
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OK so which port are you spraying the wd 40 into.. a picture is worth a 1000 words.. I have a lazy one too and would like to try it...
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ptroxx
OK so which port are you spraying the wd 40 into.. a picture is worth a 1000 words.. I have a lazy one too and would like to try it...
......word.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Aussie79
Then, for no reason at all, I decided to remove the filters from the bottom of the relays and sprayed some WD40 in to the sliding shaft of the units and voila, the headlights both go up quick and together, turns out it is a lazy or dragging plunger in the relays.

This makes sense as a troubleshooting idea. The WD40 will only be a stop gap. Use a silicone lubricant as a more permanent fix as another poster suggested.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Aussie79
Recently I replaced both vacuum relays and fitted new seals and boots to both actuators to fix headlights that wouldnt go up at all. Worked a treat.

However, about two months later, drivers side headlight is MUCH slower to rise than the other, so I borrowed vacuum guage and clamps, hoses and fittings and tested the entire vacuum system to find the source of the lazy motion, no fault found, all hoses and check valves working perfectly.

Then, for no reason at all, I decided to remove the filters from the bottom of the relays and sprayed some WD40 in to the sliding shaft of the units and voila, the headlights both go up quick and together, turns out it is a lazy or dragging plunger in the relays.

How cool is that? Give it a try if your vacuum appears good and your relays are in good condition but headlight(s) are lazy.

Cheers, Dennis.
Which part??? I have not really messed with them, but my right one is slow. Thanks
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 02:21 PM
  #28  
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Here's a little story about WD40, so take it as you will. It's funny to me.

A friend of mine bought a nail gun for over 400 bucks (back when they were super expensive) to be used steadily for a few weeks and because he had a weak elbow.
Being a really, really, cheap guy, I was surprised he got one at all. Obviously, he was really proud of it, he religiously doused inside the quick coupler with WD40 several times a day.
After about a week the gun jammed permanently. It ended up costing him another 250 bucks to have the gun repaired, warranty not honored. The WD40 had swollen the orings weakened the piston until the guts broke apart.
A lot of irony here, but the point is, investigate the products you are using.

I don't use any WD 40 at all, largely because of that, but more so because there are more appropriate products.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 07:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by FatCat Red 25th
re: condescending remarks.
I happen to appreciate Mike's (and other's) no nonsense style.
It's members like him who keep this tech forum on track with accurate information and filter out ambiguity in posts and the BS that sometimes appears.
Different points of view, and critical comments help to illicit more in-depth discussion from people who know what they're talking about.

Don't take it personally when someone critiques your posts; toughen up!
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #30  
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The WD in WD40 actually stands for "water displacing". Working as a mechanic in the transportation industry, I was amazed at how many other mechanics were using it as a lubricant. Originally was never meant, or advertised to be used as a permanent lubricant.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:18 AM
  #31  
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OK, so lets tighten up this thread and explain in a little more depth.
Firstly, WD is for dispalcing water, it can be used as a lubricant short term but it has little viscosity and evaporates to nothing rapidly, I tried it because it was handy. We seem to all agree that a good quality wet spray silicon spray will probably work longer and better.

Now, to identify exactly what I lubricated, find the relays, open the hood, look in the middle of the V of the front valance, they are under there, they look like two little spinning tops each with three large vacuum hoses on them and one thin hose. now climb under the car and look at the bottom of these units, if they are in good order they will have a small foam air filter in a rectangle slot in the bottom, it slides out, keep it and replace it when you done, put the spray tube on your spray can, stick it in the hole in the centre of where the filter was and give it a spray, operate the headlights half a dozen times with engine running and then do it again. replace filter. If it's going to help then it will have worked by now. If it doesnt help then most likely your relays rubber piston is all shrunk up or disintegrating and the relay needs to be replaced altogther. This all assumes your vacuum system is in good working order. As I said my relays are only a few months old, I imagine in the factory they probably use white grease but one of mine must have been made during the lunch shift.

Cheers Dennis.
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 12:54 PM
  #32  
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Have to add some reinforcement to Noonie's comment. WD40 is petroleum distillate based and that stuff can be destructive to some forms of rubber, plastic, synthetics, etc. I have some firsthand experience of this effect (fishing tackle and bicycle parts to name a couple of areas). My approach is that if it is something that I wouldn't want gasoline to come in contact with (maybe extreme but I tend to err on the side of caution) I won't use WD40 on it, and I haven't been sorry yet. WD40 is good stuff when used in appropriate application, discretion is advised.
I've been using a product called Super Lube on just about everything needing lubrication and/or corrosion protection. Found that it would protect my reels from saltwater corrosion without binding up baitcasting spool function. It seems to be a PTFE component in some sort of synthetic base, leaves a thin film after the carrier evaporates, and has never hurt anything that I've used it on. I am not affiliated with the maker nor am I endorsing it, but I will say that I think it is something you guys might want to look in to---- just sharing experience. I would be very interested to hear the experience of anyone else that has used it.
It used to be available everywhere pretty reasonably (IIRC I bought it at Wallyworld and the big K for about $3-4 a can) but any more it is a lot more expensive and hard to find.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 01:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom
I happen to appreciate Mike's (and other's) no nonsense style.
It's members like him who keep this tech forum on track with accurate information and filter out ambiguity in posts and the BS that sometimes appears.
Different points of view, and critical comments help to illicit more in-depth discussion from people who know what they're talking about.

Don't take it personally when someone critiques your posts; toughen up!
I dont realy have a problem with that. I could care less if someone has a straight forwared approach. I am very straight forward my self. I just dont like being told Im full of it when I have shared somthing that I know has worked.

The problem I seem to face with Mike Ward is on more than one occasion I have shared a simple fix that worked for me and he wants to disput it. I sprayed my headlight relays and the actuators and they work perfectly. This is not the first time I ever did this and it worked.

What has this turned out to be; disagree with mike Ward and your on everyones a$$ hole list. If you look at my first post to this thread I mentioned that I was flamed. I never mentioned who. However it appeears that Mike Ward felt he needed to defend himself. Up to that point no one would have known who flamed me on this subject.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #34  
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Please, please block me, OK?
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
I have no 'conflict' with you. You gave advice that I strongly disagree with, and the reasons why.

Big deal. Get over it.
Sounds like you could use some of your own advice. "Get over it."
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #36  
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Default Thanx for the help

sprayed gum cleaner on the underside of the regualtors and the pistons work fine and so do the lights!!!! Thanx guys.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #37  
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A better fix: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ay-valves.html
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #38  
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Any photos as to where I should spray ?
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by FatCat Red 25th
Mike Ward - Yes, you were the big flamer on my post as you normally do. I didn't want to call you out in this thread. I stated that I like to spray all of the ports. The actuators have seals that can benefit from some lube. You just like to discredit anyone you choose to lash out at. If the lube doesn't fix the problem then no loss; it can be replaced.
Fatcat, buddy, you need to yank the panties out of your crack.

I read the original thread, and all Mike said was ...

"Yikes"

and then...

"Yes, there's nothing inside an actuator that will benefit from WD40. It's a metal can with a rubber diaphragm."

And you honestly took offense to that?

Now I know as well as anyone that Mike can be a bit short on tact, but he usually does know wtf he's talking about. WD40 will attack rubber. Mike was trying to help you. *insert glare here*

The reason WD40 seems to help is because it's improving the seal of the piston temporarily by taking up the slack space circumferentially around that rubber piston. It's the same reason a cylinder with bad rings will pressurize better after squirting some oil down the spark plug hole.

Silicone spray would be better. Silicone grease (what I use) is best.

And again, Mike was trying to help you by advising against spraying a corrosive agent on your rubber. Sorry you can't see that.

Last edited by wcsinx; Mar 1, 2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:24 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by wcsinx

Now I know as well as anyone that Mike can be a bit short on tact, but he usually does know wtf he's talking about. WD40 will attack rubber. Mike was trying to help you. *insert glare here*
I agree with this and would add that Mikes helped me out on several occasions. I usually beat my head against the wall sorting out conflicting advice before I understand and take it but he knows what hes talking about way before I do. He cant help that hes Canadian and smarter than the rest of us mere mortals that have to play catch up to comprehend that hes skipped 20 steps of explanation to get right to the correct advice. Beyond that, GOD told me himself to listen to Mike. Now, theres a good reference for somebody! Don't take my reference on Mike, listen to God.


God tells me to listen to Mike Ward video.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/Corv...est_634786.htm
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