"spanish" corvette
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
"spanish" corvette
Hi everybody from the sunny Spain.
I have a Corvette C3 1980. I'm very proud of my car but in the last month the car has a problem that nobody can solve. Anybody can help me?
I drive my car every 4 or 5 days. It starts ok and run very well but after some miles - especially when i drive through the city (low speed -run, stop, run, stop) - the car loses power and the engine finally stops. I start the car again and only run for some meters to loses power and stops again. If i leave the car stopped for a while - 30 to 60 minutes, it runs ok but after 3 or 4 miles back the same problem. My mechanic tried to help me and he check the carburator, the fuel pump, etc... and he made some reparations in the carburator pieces but the corvette do the same. Run ok but suddenly with no notice, it loses power and stops.
So....what happened with my car?? what can I check? Somebody suggest me that i should drive the car with more petrol - i mean, at least the half tank.
Sorry for my broken english and i waiting for your help.
Thank you in advance.
Gracias amigos
I have a Corvette C3 1980. I'm very proud of my car but in the last month the car has a problem that nobody can solve. Anybody can help me?
I drive my car every 4 or 5 days. It starts ok and run very well but after some miles - especially when i drive through the city (low speed -run, stop, run, stop) - the car loses power and the engine finally stops. I start the car again and only run for some meters to loses power and stops again. If i leave the car stopped for a while - 30 to 60 minutes, it runs ok but after 3 or 4 miles back the same problem. My mechanic tried to help me and he check the carburator, the fuel pump, etc... and he made some reparations in the carburator pieces but the corvette do the same. Run ok but suddenly with no notice, it loses power and stops.
So....what happened with my car?? what can I check? Somebody suggest me that i should drive the car with more petrol - i mean, at least the half tank.
Sorry for my broken english and i waiting for your help.
Thank you in advance.
Gracias amigos
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
It sounds like you have a fuel issue. Search this forum for fuel percolation or vapor lock for what is probably the issue. You can do a quick diagnostic on this: when the car starts behaving like this, pour a bucket of cold water on the fuel pump and along the fuel line and as much as you can around the outside of the carburetor. This will cool the pump, lines, and carburetor and temporarily stop the fuel from boiling. If these are your issues the car will run fine until it starts to heat up again.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If the engine or carb has been rebuilt or repaired, an insulating spacer and/or heat dissipation plate under the carb may have been thrown away by mistake. If you have an AIM (factory Assembly Instruction Manual) check to see what is shown under the carb. Too much engine heat in the carb will cause fuel vaporization [boiling] and the carb won't work properly. If you live in a very warm/hot location, you may also need to put some insulation/reflective foil around the fuel line going to the carb. It may also help to yell "Anda!" as give it the gas. [lol]
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 17, 2010 at 09:14 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
IF it's a carb/fuel problem, the engine should be bucking and acting terrible before it finally dies.....IF it's an ignition problem, it will be running fine and just DIE all of a sudden, which is MY interpretation of your problem....
I would pull the HEI/Distributor....change the sending unit coil under the rotor button down lo, the main power chip--the black thing with the heat sink compound ...and then look at the coil terminals where the coil wiring itself is crimped onto the clips, there you find the crimp is over the lacquer formvar n the coil wires....take a soldering iron and heat really good to burn off the formvar, and solder that crimp connection really good....
those 3 things will fix any ignition problem you maybe have....
I would pull the HEI/Distributor....change the sending unit coil under the rotor button down lo, the main power chip--the black thing with the heat sink compound ...and then look at the coil terminals where the coil wiring itself is crimped onto the clips, there you find the crimp is over the lacquer formvar n the coil wires....take a soldering iron and heat really good to burn off the formvar, and solder that crimp connection really good....
those 3 things will fix any ignition problem you maybe have....
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
IF it's a carb/fuel problem, the engine should be bucking and acting terrible before it finally dies.....IF it's an ignition problem, it will be running fine and just DIE all of a sudden, which is MY interpretation of your problem....
I would pull the HEI/Distributor....change the sending unit coil under the rotor button down lo, the main power chip--the black thing with the heat sink compound ...and then look at the coil terminals where the coil wiring itself is crimped onto the clips, there you find the crimp is over the lacquer formvar n the coil wires....take a soldering iron and heat really good to burn off the formvar, and solder that crimp connection really good....
those 3 things will fix any ignition problem you maybe have....
I would pull the HEI/Distributor....change the sending unit coil under the rotor button down lo, the main power chip--the black thing with the heat sink compound ...and then look at the coil terminals where the coil wiring itself is crimped onto the clips, there you find the crimp is over the lacquer formvar n the coil wires....take a soldering iron and heat really good to burn off the formvar, and solder that crimp connection really good....
those 3 things will fix any ignition problem you maybe have....
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 74
From: New Carlisle IN
I would replace your coil and ignition module. Both can cause loss in power and cause the motor to quit when they get hot. My dad had that problem with a 88 Jeep Cherokee. It would slow down and die when going down the road. Then he would put some cold water on the coil pack and it would run for a little wile until it got hot again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,128
Likes: 4
From: Upland Ca
I also concur with the distributor being the first thing I would check and rule out. Will the car die when you are driving it in non stop and go conditions, or does it only happen in stop and go?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Before replacing/removing things, I'd try something simple.
Get a spray can of ether (Spanish:eter). It'll be for sale in auto parts stores and will have various names like "Instant Start" etc. It's most commonly used for starting cold diesel engines in cold weather countries. Also, good for starting balky gasoline engines on lawn mowers.
Remove the air cleaner from the carb. Spray it in the carb while someone cranks the engine. If the engine is getting properly timed spark plug voltage pulses, the engine will start. It should keep running as long as you spray the ether in. If it runs as long as you spray ether, then you have a fuel delivery problem.
If you spray ether into the engine and it doesn't start, then you have an electrical problem.
When you spray the ether into the carb, hold the can at the end of your extended arm. You don't want the engine to backfire and blow a blast of flame into your face.
Get a spray can of ether (Spanish:eter). It'll be for sale in auto parts stores and will have various names like "Instant Start" etc. It's most commonly used for starting cold diesel engines in cold weather countries. Also, good for starting balky gasoline engines on lawn mowers.
Remove the air cleaner from the carb. Spray it in the carb while someone cranks the engine. If the engine is getting properly timed spark plug voltage pulses, the engine will start. It should keep running as long as you spray the ether in. If it runs as long as you spray ether, then you have a fuel delivery problem.
If you spray ether into the engine and it doesn't start, then you have an electrical problem.
When you spray the ether into the carb, hold the can at the end of your extended arm. You don't want the engine to backfire and blow a blast of flame into your face.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Feb 17, 2010 at 07:13 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: houston al
i agree with the distributor, being the probable cause but before i spent that money i would try the rotory button, i have seen them do as described when they get hot, and run fine when they cool off
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: Denmark
Hi
Sounds as your engine is drowning.
Not a problem driving on the highway with higher fuel consumption or with a cold engine, but more obvious driving on low load.
Your carburator bowl valve could be either leaking or sticking.
With the airfilter off, looking down through the venturies, you can see if gasoline droplets are dripping down into the manifold while engine is running.
Lars
Sounds as your engine is drowning.
Not a problem driving on the highway with higher fuel consumption or with a cold engine, but more obvious driving on low load.
Your carburator bowl valve could be either leaking or sticking.
With the airfilter off, looking down through the venturies, you can see if gasoline droplets are dripping down into the manifold while engine is running.
Lars
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: Denmark
Well
If its a blocked vent line, fuel filter or a worn fuelpump the starvation would be evident at high load, whereas this occurs at low load.
Hence I'm convinced that the engine floods by gasolin running at very low load.
If its a blocked vent line, fuel filter or a worn fuelpump the starvation would be evident at high load, whereas this occurs at low load.
Hence I'm convinced that the engine floods by gasolin running at very low load.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
If it was ignition there would be no engine dieing slowly. Spain isn't very hot this time of year also, so vapor lock is out.Also make sure someone didn't install a filter somewhere else in the fuel line.
GOOD LUCK!!!