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Exactly. The originals were heat treated so they wouldn't get gouged by the hex head nor bend under torque load. The present aftermarket "gypos" are just mild steel. The tang on a mild steel part might not even retain the bolt if it started to work loose. Either find the correct parts or use lock washers.
If not, I know that Lock Washers work, although I will need to see if I need longer bolts. I need to make sure I have plenty of thread depth before I torqued the bolts with a Lock washer decreasing the depth.
A French "lock" is a strip of metal that mounts under two [usually] bolts which has little tangs that are bent up next to those bolt heads (after torquing it) so that the bolts cannot work loose. These are used with the rear axle U-joint flanges and under the mounting bolts for the exhaust manifolds on C3 Corvettes.
A French "lock" is a strip of metal that mounts under two [usually] bolts which has little tangs that are bent up next to those bolt heads (after torquing it) so that the bolts cannot work loose. These are used with the rear axle U-joint flanges and under the mounting bolts for the exhaust manifolds on C3 Corvettes.
Lock washers work just fine. Those french clips are for the birds. A little loctitie with a lock washer and they are not going to move. If it is NCRS use the French ones if not use lock washers.
Well... that comment really bolstered my confidence from the Bubba to the acceptable. That's the solution I used after having the same result with the French locks supplied in a kit.
Nothing against the NCRS crowd and just wanted to feel I'm not chasing half-shafts falling out from under the car. LOL.