New Guy - LQ9/4L80 swap help
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New Guy - LQ9/4L80 swap help
Hey guys im new on the vette forum. I recently acquired a 1976 L-48 Auto car that is stock down to the air cleaner. Im a huge fan of the LS series engines (ive had several Forced Induction LS based engines). Ive been lurking on the swap thread for the C3. I see that alot of people go with the 4l60E or just a turbo400. I was planning on using a 4L80 with a manual valve body. So i have a few questions on the swap. Ill be using a LQ9 Iron block @ 370ci.
1) best motor mounts to use?
2) Has anyone mounted a 4l80 successfully?
3) is an intank pump the best to use? (ill use a return style setup)
I think thats all the questions right now. I know ill have more later. Any other tips or tricks would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Chandler
1) best motor mounts to use?
2) Has anyone mounted a 4l80 successfully?
3) is an intank pump the best to use? (ill use a return style setup)
I think thats all the questions right now. I know ill have more later. Any other tips or tricks would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Chandler
#2
Melting Slicks
1) Are you talking about the motor mounts themselves or the adapter plates? The motor mount adapter plates you use depend on a lot of things like what headers you are using, the oil pan, if you're using rack and pinion, where you want to mount your AC, etc. The plates are all good quality, but some move your engine farther forward and some leave very little clearance between the firewall and engine. If you're talking about motor mounts, the I'd just use poly mounts.
2) I wouldn't use the 4L80. It robs quite a bit of power over the 4L60, weighs 45 lb. more, and is really unnecessary in most cases. What HP are you planning on running?
3) In-tank is more quiet which does not sound like a big deal until you've lived with an external pump for awhile. You should baffle your tank either way unless you plan on running with more then 1/4 tank at all times.
2) I wouldn't use the 4L80. It robs quite a bit of power over the 4L60, weighs 45 lb. more, and is really unnecessary in most cases. What HP are you planning on running?
3) In-tank is more quiet which does not sound like a big deal until you've lived with an external pump for awhile. You should baffle your tank either way unless you plan on running with more then 1/4 tank at all times.
Last edited by SuprJames; 03-09-2010 at 01:40 PM.
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1) Are you talking about the motor mounts themselves or the adapter plates? The motor mount adapter plates you use depend on a lot of things like what headers you are using, the oil pan, if you're using rack and pinion, where you want to mount your AC, etc. The plates are all good quality, but some move your engine farther forward and some leave very little clearance between the firewall and engine. If you're talking about motor mounts, the I'd just use poly mounts.
2) I wouldn't use the 4L80. It robs quite a bit of power over the 4L60, weighs 45 lb. more, and is really unnecessary in most cases. What HP are you planning on running?
3) In-tank is more quiet which does not sound like a big deal until you've lived with an external pump for awhile. You should baffle your tank either way unless you plan on running with more then 1/4 tank at all times.
2) I wouldn't use the 4L80. It robs quite a bit of power over the 4L60, weighs 45 lb. more, and is really unnecessary in most cases. What HP are you planning on running?
3) In-tank is more quiet which does not sound like a big deal until you've lived with an external pump for awhile. You should baffle your tank either way unless you plan on running with more then 1/4 tank at all times.
1) yes i guess my post was uneducated....Im under the impression that you use the stock mounts with adapters? I meant the adapters used. The plan is to turn the C5 ls1 manifolds up and run twin turbos that will be slightly out of the hood, but for the time being probably just stock manifolds, whether its the truck ones or the stock ls1 vette manifolds (im not even sure if you can use the truck ones). Id like to have the motor somewhat pushed to the firewall to have room for the intercooler piping and such
2) Im aiming for 6s in the 1/8th and roughly 600whp. I dont like the size, weight, or parasitic loss of the 4l80 but im not sure how far i would have to build the 4l60 to get it to hold up to the boost launches. Ive only had powerful T56, and TH400 cars so im not familiar with the strength and durability of the 4l60. I have seen some go out under stock power in GTOs and F-bodys though.
3) Ok thanks for that info. Ill probably end up with an external. In my mind if you can hear the pump over the exhaust, then your car isnt loud enough! haha but I could see how that would be annoying.
Thanks for the info! this is great!
#4
Um with that hp, you'll be eating GMs crappy 4L60s like breath mints...
torque converter apply solinoid failure ring a bell? I think it's 1370 code...crap trans..
Go for a built 4L80.
In tank OEM pumps have a reservior and integrated return. I'm running an external, but my LQ9 has sidepipes, so noise is not an issue.
torque converter apply solinoid failure ring a bell? I think it's 1370 code...crap trans..
Go for a built 4L80.
In tank OEM pumps have a reservior and integrated return. I'm running an external, but my LQ9 has sidepipes, so noise is not an issue.
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Um with that hp, you'll be eating GMs crappy 4L60s like breath mints...
torque converter apply solinoid failure ring a bell? I think it's 1370 code...crap trans..
Go for a built 4L80.
In tank OEM pumps have a reservior and integrated return. I'm running an external, but my LQ9 has sidepipes, so noise is not an issue.
torque converter apply solinoid failure ring a bell? I think it's 1370 code...crap trans..
Go for a built 4L80.
In tank OEM pumps have a reservior and integrated return. I'm running an external, but my LQ9 has sidepipes, so noise is not an issue.
Which in tank pump did u go with that has integrated return?
Which motor mount adapters did you use?
#6
My 68 with speedhound's 1" setback, original trans location mounts, were ok. But my trans would need the yoke cut and the trans housing bolts were way close to the firewall. With an auto...not an issue for you.
In tank pumps are dictated by what you want to spend. With a turbo, you never want to go lean...I had a supercharged boat....so get the best...
In tank pumps are dictated by what you want to spend. With a turbo, you never want to go lean...I had a supercharged boat....so get the best...
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My 68 with speedhound's 1" setback, original trans location mounts, were ok. But my trans would need the yoke cut and the trans housing bolts were way close to the firewall. With an auto...not an issue for you.
In tank pumps are dictated by what you want to spend. With a turbo, you never want to go lean...I had a supercharged boat....so get the best...
In tank pumps are dictated by what you want to spend. With a turbo, you never want to go lean...I had a supercharged boat....so get the best...
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Yea so i hear Thats why I was wanting to run a manual valve body to eliminate the controller. I dont think hardly any tuners have figured it out yet
#10
Melting Slicks
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A 6spd auto from the c6 vettes/Escalades would be pretty sweet too! Those are very expensive from what i can tell. 6L60?
#13
For turbos some have been using the truck manifolds flipped.
As for a 4L80, do a search, I think crossmember and tunnel mods were needed.
Here's a link to my build.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2731
As for a 4L80, do a search, I think crossmember and tunnel mods were needed.
Here's a link to my build.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2731
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For turbos some have been using the truck manifolds flipped.
As for a 4L80, do a search, I think crossmember and tunnel mods were needed.
Here's a link to my build.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2731
As for a 4L80, do a search, I think crossmember and tunnel mods were needed.
Here's a link to my build.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2731
Also on the thread with your pics...Did you use the stock wiring harness from a truck or an aftermarket? If so who makes them?
Thanks,
C
#16
Team Owner
Just curious........
Why do folks go looking [and paying] for a bone-stock Corvette, then pull the important components out and stick new stuff in it? Why not just buy a modified car to start with? Believe me, I'm all for folks doing what they want, but why spend extra ca$h for a 'stock' vehcile and then go altering that 'stock' condition? Beats me....
#18
LOL, who started with a stock vette? I got mine in a partial trade for a boat. It had a badly "hoped up" 350 SBC replacement motor. You know, put the biggest cam in and it will go fast. The trans was beginning to show its age and the clutch was slipping. Somehow the car had a 3.08 rear from an auto car....
Now I get 20+ mpg, MUCH better performance, more reliability, easier starts, and cold AC keeps my fat old a$$ from sweating on 100 degree days.
Now I get 20+ mpg, MUCH better performance, more reliability, easier starts, and cold AC keeps my fat old a$$ from sweating on 100 degree days.
Why do folks go looking [and paying] for a bone-stock Corvette, then pull the important components out and stick new stuff in it? Why not just buy a modified car to start with? Believe me, I'm all for folks doing what they want, but why spend extra ca$h for a 'stock' vehcile and then go altering that 'stock' condition? Beats me....
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Why do folks go looking [and paying] for a bone-stock Corvette, then pull the important components out and stick new stuff in it? Why not just buy a modified car to start with? Believe me, I'm all for folks doing what they want, but why spend extra ca$h for a 'stock' vehcile and then go altering that 'stock' condition? Beats me....
After having some quick LSx cars, I dont think it gets much better than 620whp and 25mpg (interstate).
Back to the topic:
Is it possible to use an F-Body harness?
Ive also been reading up on the accessory drive system.... the ls1 F-body acc seems to be the weapon of choice???
I searched this forum with a few results on the 4L80 swap that were very helpful. However I havnt found anyone running a manual valve body. I like driving manual valve body cars and this would also eliminate the expensive controller. Im 90% sure they make a conversion for it but im not sure. Anyone know of a company that does?
Thanks,
C
#20
F body accessories seem to work, the alternator fit can be tight.
All the LQ9s were DBW, If you go to the cable TB f body harness you might be better off getting the f body computer too. Look at LS1tech site, there are a few threads on coverting.
All the LQ9s were DBW, If you go to the cable TB f body harness you might be better off getting the f body computer too. Look at LS1tech site, there are a few threads on coverting.