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When I turn on my a/c the blower goes on but it doesnt seem like the compressor is coming on. The front turns by hand and is not seized up. If I'm not mistaken the front should spin when the a/c is put on. Is it possible that the thermal limiter fuse is blown? Any ideas? Also how do I know if my a/c was ever converted from the old type coolant? Thanks!
Last edited by Ret.Horsecop13; Mar 15, 2010 at 07:58 PM.
Could be anything from the loss of refigerant to electrical controls or compressor clutch. You can ck. for refigerant pressure by depressing the schrader valve, like a tire stem, on one of two fittings used to service the system. You can ck. the clutch for continuity, ohms, with a multi meter. Then you will have to start back tracking from the compressor plug until you find the missing 12v that energize the clutch. First ck. for refigerant pressure. It takes about 30lbs. of pressure to close the low pressure switch and send 12v to compressor. If no pressure you will have the pressurize system and find leak. Get a wiring diagram for your car and see what all is still wired in on your system. mds...
The most likely possibilities are: blown fuse for the A/C circuit; defective compressor clutch [the 'condenser' is the heat exchanger mounted to the front of the radiator]; break in the power wire or ground wire going to the compressor clutch.
If its been converted to 134 you should have the adaptor fittings on your high and low side r12 fittings. r12 gauges will only fit r12 fittings and 134 gauges will only fit 134 fittings. check to see that your pressures are correct on both sides.
It's most likely a loss of refrigerant and oil. Don't even try to run the car with the A/C on or you might ruin the compressor. If you haven't done it already then you most likely should get a full service on the A/C which includes an evacuation of all fluids, replace the dessicant in the dryer or replace the POV valve, create a vacuum in the system and check for leaks, then fill with oil and refrigerant. If the system had R12 in it then by law you must take it to an A/C shop to recover the R12. While it's at the shop they can flush the system. Then you can do the mechanical work of replacing the dessicant or just replacing the POV valve assembly...which is what I did. I also replaced all my O-Rings with the green ones which are compatible with R12 or R134a. I then filled the compressor with oil and took it back to the shop to have them put a vacuum on the system and test for leaks. I then took it home and started the A/C up and filled with oil and R134a.
Follow the wires coming off the compressor. The low pressure cut off switch should have two wires plugged into it. One from the compressor, the other coming from the dash. Unplug both of them from the low pressure switch and connect them together with a piece of wire, coathanger, anything will work. Start the car, turn on the a/c and see if the compressor clicks on. If so, you're low on refrigerant. Had the a/c been working before?
Use the test above only to see if the compressor will activate....then turn it off immediately. Without refrigerate to carry the lubricating oil around the circuit, the compressor could seize up pretty quickly.
Follow the wires coming off the compressor. The low pressure cut off switch should have two wires plugged into it. One from the compressor, the other coming from the dash. Unplug both of them from the low pressure switch and connect them together with a piece of wire, coathanger, anything will work. Start the car, turn on the a/c and see if the compressor clicks on. If so, you're low on refrigerant. Had the a/c been working before?
I just got the car this winter so I'm not sure when it last worked. I will try to connect the two wires though. Thanks for the help!
Use the test above only to see if the compressor will activate....then turn it off immediately. Without refrigerate to carry the lubricating oil around the circuit, the compressor could seize up pretty quickly.