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The tach stop working last night on the way home from work. With the ignition off it stays at the 3500 rpm mark. When driving it stays at the 4000 rpm mark. Any ideas where to look first? should I replace the cable? it never drops back to zero nor is the any movement from the needle.
Probably need it re-worked. I know most use a circuit board that always fails. Not sure about yours, but I would bet that is what has happened. Look at one of the Corvette parts sites and see if they have tach re-build service for your year model.
On mine the wire that goes to a noise supressor on the intake broke , I took the supressor out and wired them together and the tack started to work , cream coloured wire and a small bracket on the passenger side beside the distributor! or like above the tach printed circuit! Ron
Probably need it re-worked. I know most use a circuit board that always fails. Not sure about yours, but I would bet that is what has happened. Look at one of the Corvette parts sites and see if they have tach re-build service for your year model.
Yep I was reading my manual and you are right I have already purchased all the bulbs, and circuit board.
I was just waiting to install it all, it looks like my weekend project for this weekend. thanks for the help!!!
The areas of possible cause are: 1) bad signal wiring from tach to circuit board (behind gauge cluster); 2) bad tach signal filter (the little can mounted to the intake manifold in that tach signal line; 3) bad circuit board [see #1]; bad tachometer. The likelihood of those causes can be prioritized as #3, #1, #4, & #2 [IMO] because of the symptoms you described. But, since the circuit board and tach are the most difficult to check out/repair/replace, verify integrity of #1 & #2 first. If you pull the circuit board out, check it over very closely; the problem may simply be a broken conductor foil on the board which prevents the tach signal from getting to the tach. If so, a simple solder job can fix it and save a bunch of $$$$.
The areas of possible cause are: 1) bad signal wiring from tach to circuit board (behind gauge cluster); 2) bad tach signal filter (the little can mounted to the intake manifold in that tach signal line; 3) bad circuit board [see #1]; bad tachometer. The likelihood of those causes can be prioritized as #3, #1, #4, & #2 [IMO] because of the symptoms you described. But, since the circuit board and tach are the most difficult to check out/repair/replace, verify integrity of #1 & #2 first. If you pull the circuit board out, check it over very closely; the problem may simply be a broken conductor foil on the board which prevents the tach signal from getting to the tach. If so, a simple solder job can fix it and save a bunch of $$$$.
Hi thank you for the very detailed list this will help me a lot. Since I have just about restored this car. I am currently working on the last few details. The Tach started this week not working correctly.
It stays at 3500 rpm when I am driving it or not (shut down) and will go to 4000 rpm and stay there and then drop no lower than 3500 rpm at slower speeds usually less than 45 mph.
I have replaced the circuit board for the center bezel with gauges and all the light bulbs as well as the lens. So I was planning on removing the tach and speed o and replace the lens there too along with the bulbs and circuit board I already bought. that way the dash will be completely re done with everything new.......thanks again!
The tach stop working last night on the way home from work. With the ignition off it stays at the 3500 rpm mark. When driving it stays at the 4000 rpm mark. Any ideas where to look first?
Most often its the tach board...read this recently published article on tach boards in CE...
Good news I found the problem. I had to replace the Tach board with a new one. Awhile I was at it I replaced all the bulbs and the Speed o and tach circuit board as well as the tach board it self......