Well, I tried removing the fuel filter by unscrewing the fuel line from the brass inlet to the fuel filter. And twisted the fuel line. Seems the small brass nut by the line is really stuck in there after 31 years. (tried PB blaster first). Any ideas on how to get this thing apart? Will I need a new fuel line? If so, what other parts should I replace while I'm at it? Any tips/tricks/pics are appreciated.

 

When you need to break a hydraulic or fuel line, use two wrenches!!! It's amazing how many folks trash a fuel line or round off fittings by NOT using the correct wrench combinations to do that job.

You are not alone...many folks have done the sme thing. But the repair for the damage always costs more than buying the correct wrenches in the first place....

 

Snap-On makes a skinney 1" wrench just for the filter housing. All you really need is a flare nut wrench and a crescent. You already know what happens if you just turn the fitting... Good luck.

 

Thanks, gentlemen.

Maybe someone else will learn from my mistake here, too. Oh well. Whatcha gonna do? This is small potatoes in the big scheme of life, yes?

I did use two wrenches, ... just turned the wrong one. Embarrassing.

Simple question: Which way does the 1" nut turn to loosen?

Also, The fuel line is kinked, but not pierced. Do you think I should replace it anyway?

 

ccw

 

rightie tightie lefty loosie... still applies I believe. I would leftyloosie and righty hold still.

 

If your line is kinked, plan on replacing it - exact reproductions are available for very fair prices, and they look good. That being the case, cut the line off near the carb and use a 1" combo wrench to remove the inlet fitting with the 5/8 flarenut and stub tube in it. You can then clamp the 5/8" flarenut firmly in a vise and use the 1" wrench to break the inlet fitting loose from the flarenut.

When installing the filter and re-assembling the line, put the spring in the carb, followed by the filter. Place a new gasket on the inlet fitting and lubricate the fitting threads with grease. Install the fitting and tighten it snug. Then, lubricate the threads on the new fuel line flarenut and screw it in by hand -make sure you can screw it all the way in by hand - if not, you need to tweak the line and its alignment. Once seated by hand, use a 5/8" flarenut wrench with the 1" open end backing up the inlet fitting to tighten the 5/8" flarenut.
Lars

 

Very helpful, Lars. Thank you.

Parts on order.

I also ordered new rubber fuel pump lines while I'm at it. I'm sure mine are original. Can you replace all of these while the fuel pump is still in place? Or are there any other tricks here?

 

Back when I had Lars rebuild my qjet on the '80 L48, I bought a replacement inlet line from Dr Rebuild (pre-bent with that coiled wire along parts that may 'rub' or contact accessories at the front of the engine). I also bought the two short lengths of hose that connect my fuel pump to the lines that come from the tank... surprising how nasty these two hoses can get after 20+ years in service. After, I had the confidence (once I verified no leaks) that these key fuel connections at the engine were not likely to be a source for fires/issues during my ownership (good for another 20+ years... knock on wood).

I don't recall for sure but Lars may have also had to put a sleeve in the carb inlet or replace the 1" nut with new threads for the fuel line nut... after several failed attempts to correctly re-thread the fuel line into the housing, the threads were compromised/shot. I think it was the nut that had to be replaced now that I think further... I know, TMI.

About that time, I had a fire extinguisher installed at the base of the passenger seat in the cabin for good measure/safety. One of the forum members was selling/installing in the Tampa Bay area at the time. He gave me a deal on the extinguisher/install in exchange for my OEM, re-buildable rear differential w/ 3.07 gears (it had 100K+ miles and turned out to have some cross-member mounting bolt hole threads that were stripped, ears 'missing' from abuse by prior owners). I think he had plans to make a 'vette' wagon/hauler to pull behind his C3 for swap meets.

 

Good story TedH. Looks like replacing the 31 year old rubber fuel lines is a good idea for me too.

Well, it looks like the 5/8" nut is truly seized in the 1" nut fitting which screws into the carb base. PB blaster for 2 days, then WD-40 soaking, then I used a flare nut wrench on it and a long 1" wrench. Not moving a bit. Even rounded the 5/8" nut inside the flare nut wrench (craftsman). Looks like I'll be cutting the line (when the part comes in) and trying the vice like Lars recommended.

 

Follow up:

I ordered a stainless steel hard fuel line and the two rubber hoses. I had to cut the hard line near the fuel filter. Then the 1" nut unscrewed right out. To remove the 5/8" nut, it took a vice and a pipe wrench. The 1" nut for the filter housing was still in tact.

The SS hard line required 3 bends to make it long enough and to go straight into both the bottom of the fuel pump as well as the fuel filter at the carb. I could bend 2 of them myself, but the last one was tricky. I actually was able to stick the 5/8" nut in the bolt hole of my wheel. Fit perfectly and held it nicely to carefully bend it. Go figure.

It's all back together now. And the whole process led to way to much work on other things. Like this (clicky).

Thanks again, everyone, for the helpful tips.

 

It's a little late for this, since you're already done. But for others, don't use a cutoff wheel to cut off the fuel line. New garages can get pricey!