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Am I to presume that because of the trim ring - you want to keep all the weights on the inside side of the rim? Or is that wrong?
I'm going to take my rims to Sams to get tires mouted and balanced and I just know "some kid" will be doing the job. I want to make sure it's done right. ( So if I want him to have an opinion on how to mount Radial T/A's to Rally Wheels - I'll give it to him. )
With that in mind... someone can please hand me a proper opinion - so I don't look stupid.
Hi W,
You're right, the factory applied the weights to the inside lip of the wheel because of the trim ring clips.
I really don't know how much that matters, were aftermarket weights applied to the outside lip just because that's easier? I don't know.
Regards,
Alan
Dynamic balance (weights on both sides) is the best balance with less chance of ride disturbance issues. Static balance (weights on inside only) is the next best thing if you cant have or dont want weights on the outsides of the wheel. I dont know these particular rings and how the clips are but if say a 2oz weight was needed right where a clip would have to be, you can put two 1oz weights on instead with a little gap between them for the clip. By chance, weights might not be required right where the clips are if lucky. Some clips will move enough in the ring to be able to nudge them right or left of a weight. If the clips are not clocked to the valve notch exactly the same on all the rings you can try different rings on different wheels to try and work around the different weight possisions.
Assuming that you have stock rings with the 4 clips on them, just use a non-permanent marker to identify where you CANNOT have weights installed. Remove your rings and hubs before you ever go near the tire store. Then explain to them what the marks are for.
You also need to check them over when they get done to verify that they "haven't done what you told them not to do". I had to have them take one wheel back and split the weight to either side of the clip location. {These guys can't think for themselves so you have to do it for them.}
Assuming that you have stock rings with the 4 clips on them, just use a non-permanent marker to identify where you CANNOT have weights installed. Remove your rings and hubs before you ever go near the tire store. Then explain to them what the marks are for.
You also need to check them over when they get done to verify that they "haven't done what you told them not to do". I had to have them take one wheel back and split the weight to either side of the clip location. {These guys can't think for themselves so you have to do it for them.}
If you mark it, and point it out to them, can they really screw up,........ maybe.
wouldnt go to sams, but i would recomend going to a shop that will ''road force'' and balance your wheels, big difference on niose,vibration and wear on tire
I just bought a set of replacment rallye wheels from Corvette America and new tires from Coker. I had a local comany mount the tires on the wheels twice and I still get a nasty shake at about 62 MPH. They used a dynamic balancer and mount the weights on both sides. Does the lug mounting make a big difference in comparison to hub mounting when balancing the tires? I would really appriciate the advise.
THanks,
Mark
possible problem is road force. think of the sidewall of a tire, imagine springs all the way around the tire, some springs harder than others, while driving it will create harmonics and vibrations, the hunter (forget the series machine) will match the tire and wheel at the exact spot were it creates the least amount of road force, and will even tell you if the tires are junk, i sent many back because of this condition
Last edited by straub18045; Apr 26, 2010 at 12:35 PM.
I just bought a set of replacment rallye wheels from Corvette America and new tires from Coker. I had a local comany mount the tires on the wheels twice and I still get a nasty shake at about 62 MPH. They used a dynamic balancer and mount the weights on both sides. Does the lug mounting make a big difference in comparison to hub mounting when balancing the tires? I would really appriciate the advise.
THanks,
Mark
I found out that the hole's in the center of some aftermarket/repro wheels are not alway's in the center of the Wheel, where most shops do the mounting. I found a Shop that had a "Lug Centric Adapter" that balance's the wheel assembly at the Lug's instead of the Hub. You get a more accurate balance that way since the lugs hold the wheel.
That was the only way my new repro Magnum 500's would balance out. The Shop was also able to keep the weights on the inside of the Wheel. Lug centric is the only way I'll balance all my Tire's for now on.
Call around because not all Shops have the Adapter. There was only one in the Tulsa area.
I also found that some repro wheels may not be true, even though they're new. I had one bad one out of the four new Magnum's I bought. It made a good spare.
I agree with Marty. A few years ago I bought a repo wheel for my '74 and had vibration problems. Had trouble finding someone who would true a steel rim but that took care of it.
Bill
My 3 wheels are not repops (I still need one more). I just go tback from getting the rear tires mounted. They both needed only 1.25 oz - so we put a single weight on the back of the rim - done.