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Maybe Im just "daniel the half machine" or something, because I just snapped two more bolts. But right now Im only focused on one bolt, because the other isn't a nessesity, so I can go a month w/o it.
the important one is, I snapped a "stud" off the hub on the front drivers side. So Im defanitly realizing that it needs to be replaced. :mad
Anyway, where on earth can I get a hub only? everyone wants to sell me a hub/rotor combo...I don't need to buy a rotor.
Also, what do you think? Do I need to learn my own strength, or should I expect bolts/studs to start to snap since I have been doing work(may of them have been there since '77). Is this expected? Should I try to replace all bolts/stud's possible so I don't keep breaking these PITA's??
Should I just cut my losses now, and try to pick up a later year shark in better shape?? Or do you think I've replaced to much/spent to much to turn back now.
Daniel
PS. I took my friend for a ride today in my vette. We saw one for sale, and stoped to look, now he want's a C3...the one for sale is a red '75. Just goes to show, one ride and their hooked.
let me note. The drivers side wheel almost fell off last fall when a couple lugs fell off at speed, and the wheel started to wobble...I THINK that may have weakened it...
Set a torque wrench at 80-85 ft. lbs. This will not break a wheel stud off. You should be able to knock the stud out and replace it with a new one. Back it up with a hunk of iron, put a punch in the center of the broken stud and whack it out. Pull the new one thru with a nut/washer combo and you'll be all set.
Set a torque wrench at 80-85 ft. lbs. This will not break a wheel stud off. You should be able to knock the stud out and replace it with a new one. Back it up with a hunk of iron, put a punch in the center of the broken stud and whack it out. Pull the new one thru with a nut/washer combo and you'll be all set.
I don't know what you mean, but it will probably make since when I get the wheel and stuff off and see it. As for the wrench, I was snugging them down before I took a wrench to it using one of those "4 side" wrench things...then I fallow up with a wrench...it just sucks it snapped...Luckily it did it after I did a little cruising.
Danial you have to remove the brake caliper then the rotor that exposes the hub and studs. Just take a punch and drive it out and line up the knurl of the replacement stud and pull it thru with double nuts. Is it the front wheel or back? Back is harder due to clearance problems .
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: snap...snap(ya, again, twice) (daniel77350)
I know the hubs themselves are expensive $250-$300 if memory serves. I'd take the off the caliper & rotor & check out the hub. To me $250 is a lot of money for something I won't see a whole lot of. I'd try to salvage it first.
1. One hint when tightening bolts that I learned the hard way. When tightening with a rachet, grab the rachet at the very head (where the socket attaches)when tightening a bolt. In this position less torque is exerted on the bolt than if you tighten using the handle of the rachet.
2. Save the 1/2 inch drive rachets and sockets for larger nuts and bolts that will eventually need torqued.
I know this doesn't apply to the wheel bolts, but applies to just about every other bolt on a Vette.
I learned this a long time ago and it has saved my butt may times.
If you don't want to remove the rivits you can remove hub and rotor as one unit taking off the dust cap and removing the cotter pin and nut and pull the assembly off that way . You can still replace stud. But you still have to remove caliper.
Daniel, if that last question was serious you should do this........take the vette to a tire store (Discount tire, Les Schwab, etc) and let them put some new lugs in it for ya. Probably only a couple bucks each bro.
Daniel, if that last question was serious you should do this........take the vette to a tire store (Discount tire, Les Schwab, etc) and let them put some new lugs in it for ya. Probably only a couple bucks each bro.
??? I've never drilled a rivet before...and isn't the rotor and hub rivited together?
Monday I will call a local tire store and see what they'll charge to put a new lug stud..
Daniel that is one of the easiest jobs to do. You have two choices on how to do it yet. Yes they were rivited together at factory are yours still? anyway if you take the dust cap route the only extra work is maybe repacking your bearings while your in there. The rivits are soft so they drill easy. Also eye ball the size Guessing 1/4 drill bit will take head off.
Yes they were rivited together at factory are yours still? anyway if you take the dust cap route the only extra work is maybe repacking your bearings while your in there.
Yes they still are. As for the bearings...Replace them? I have the stuff to repack them(I was going to wait to do it, but I guess not is as good a time as any). I just need to try to save up a few more bucks before I "go in"...This engine detail has put me in the hole...There's no telling what this will cost me in the end.
Most cases You just need to clean and inspect the bearings and races if you see any discoloration replace them , if they are clear of any marks,discolors your safe to repack them and change the seal. If your short of cash now do the remove rivit route and just change the stud. It pushes out thru the rotor and the hub behind and you can pull it thru with hub still on spindle with a revesed nut.