I've been having a bogging problem since I purchased my 69 427 4 speed (w ac) car last fall. The car has Hooker side pipe headers.

I replaced the not correct carb with a rebuilt one that was correct. The problem got worst but I belive I had messed something up with the timing by that time.

I replaced points with a petronix 3 sytem and the bogging continued but did not get worst.

Currently the idle is rough but I can get it out of the driveway. Once I step on the gas in first gear it stumbled hard and can barely get to 30mph. I get scared that Im going to have to push it back so I dont go very far.

I started the process of elimination tonight with the wires and plugs.
Here is what I got when I started the process.

Cylinder 8 .035 gap Wire Resistance 7.37 KOh
Cylinder 6 .035 gap Wire Resistance 10.87 KOh
Cylinder 4 .035 gap Wire Resistance 13.61 KOh
Cylinder 2 .035 gap Wire Resistance 12.43 KOh
Cylinder 1 .035 gap Wire Resistance 13.70 KOh

Cylinder 3 burned up spark plug boot.
(stopped here)

All the spark plugs were Ac r44xls
All the wires were Accel Hi-temp Super Stock 8mm radio suppression wire with wire brading on outside.

All the wires and plugs looked in good shape and I didnt pull any more out after the failure on cylinder 3. The wire had a good resistance but the boot had got hot and you can pretty much see the metal clip for the spark plug.

All the wires accept for 1 and 3 are straight boots that go on the spark plug. The 1 and 3 cylinder are your normal looking boots.
Is that common for headers on corvettes?
None of the other wires are in any danger of being burned up but 3 is toast and 1 is pretty close to the headers.

Is there a way to fix/replace just the boot on cylinder 3 or do I need an entire new set? I hate to buy a new set if only one boot is bad.

If the 1 and 3 cylinders are supposed to have elbow boots for the plugs, is there any way to protect them from getting warm?

I like the brading on the outside of the wire since it makes it look more stock. If I cant fix this, anyone have a suggestion for a replacement set that will be safe with the headers and still look stock?

thanks for the help
jim

 

the resistance of the wires doesn't matter-the high voltage doesn't travel thru the wires like low voltage.
lars has said many times that commercially rebuilt carbs can't be trusted. that's where i'd look.

 

I've got the wires on #1 and #3 wrapped with a layer of header wrap, a DEI sock, and another layer of header wrap. And then bent the metal end inside the boot to get as much clearance as possible. So far, it seems to be working. 2-1/8 primary tubes just don't leave much room.

You can get a single wire too.

Get your timing issues corrected as much as you can before you go after the carb. Set the timing per Lars' info and then see what it does.

 

Yeah, I know the wire is fried so I will fix it than go after timing. If I can get that wire fixed and check the last two, I will know thats not part of the problem.

Where can you get header wrap?
What is DEI?
Where can I buy a single Accel wires with metal wrap like I currently have?

Any of this local shop stuff or all online?

thanks

 

Unless you actually have a "miss" on one or more cylinders, you probably don't have a plug wire issue, even if the boot is burnt. Set your total timing to 36 degrees and make sure you have at least 16 initial (with the 36 total), and make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up and functional.

If you still have a bog, you got yourself a junk rebuilt carb - most of them are. Send me an e-mail request for my "Commercially Rebuilt Q-Jet Problems" paper for a good summary of common carb issues that will cause the problems you describe.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

 

DEI is a brand name- they make all sorts of heat shield stuff. I picked everything up at the local parts store.