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YOU can NOT solve this problem -80 model

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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:52 AM
  #21  
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I mean any rubber suspension bushing. The rubber is vulcanized to the inner and outer steel sleeve. Both sleeves are typically held solid, one to the frame and the other to the suspension piece. If you put a twist into the bushing the rubber will try to straighten out, creating a spring type effect.

Peter
Thanks Peter, I understand what you meant now. Will be checking those again tomorrow. Thank you for your input. mj
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
This itself is a 5/8" difference.

The rubber bushings won't rotate in their sleeves and if one is tightened while not at ride height then it acts like a spring.
If the above is true could the A frame bushings have been tightened with one side off the ground and the other on the ground?
Or tightening one trailing arm bushing on the ground and one off?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 06:42 AM
  #23  
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out of the 10 or 12 c3s ive done not one had ever been wrecked until i started resto and found out diff. if u cant find odv. take to frame shop and have frame checked u might be supri. what u find
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:45 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mikejpss
Roger, very interesting read on that link- thank you.
Tomorrow I will disconnect the sway bar from both sides at the lower a arms.......
Your theory fits my leaning problem. The RF is higher then the LF,the LR is lower than the RR.
By pressing on the front sides, you can see the opposing rear lift, so the cross spring is free- by your theory. Thank you very much for your insight.
Tomorrow will be checking body mounts (numbers 2 and 3 both sides ) and disconnecting sway bar at both ends... More to come.
Your welcome and I "hope" you find some other cause for the lean.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by hugie82
That is a very large sway bar and if it's bent that would cause a lean like that, try unbolting the ends and also meassure the long bolts that hold the car up. If someone cranked up one side more than the other it will cause a lean. I would say the pass rear is up rather than the drivers side being low IMO. Good Luck
I think you have the right idea? I just want to clearify. The bolts I was referring to are the leaf spring outer bushing and bolts. If a bushing fails/falls out or the bolts are not evenly adjusted on the leaf spring it will make the car lean towards the side with the least amount of pressure/weight on the spring.
You can help us alot by taking a pic of the spring with the spare removed and the car sitting on the ground!!!
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mikejpss
Frame to ground measurements are all the same on several places. Only at drivers side kick up is 1/4 inch higher than pass side.
All you guys that are going on and on about suspension, bushings, and swabilizer bars - are ignoring the simple statement above.

In fact - The one place where his frame is not level, it's going 1/4 inch OPPOSITE the problem lean. I'll say it again, suspension only levels (or tilts) the frame of the car. His problem seems clearly with the body... iether incorrect body mount shims or poor damage repair.

The only hope he has (frame and suspension wise) is that Roger is right and there is a problem keeping the right front frame "high" this making the left rear "low".

But past that, the body shim measurements he mentioned seem to come into play.

I'm basing the above strictly on the OP's reports of his frame to ground measurements.

-W

Last edited by Clams Canino; May 6, 2010 at 10:15 AM.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #27  
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If the frame is level and the body is not it is not a suspension problem.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:28 AM
  #28  
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Default thanks and more data

Thanks guys for all ur input so far. I feel I am making headway by eliminating things. More data from moments ago:
I removed the front stabalizer bolts from the A Arms:
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

NO CHANGE in the lean to left as seen here:
[IMG][/IMG]

Some had asked for a pic of the rear spring without the tire carrier:
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Goona get me a good chew of RedMan ,sit in my outdoor chair and ponder for a spell....I'm open and all ears. 225-910-0059 if anyone wants to cry with me???
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #29  
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
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Forgot to add- when attaching the rear leaf bolts at the spring ends, they were both pulled up to an equal distance, e.g.- both are 1 3/16" from stud end to top of nut....

Last edited by mikejpss; May 6, 2010 at 12:57 PM. Reason: changed measurement
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mikejpss
Goona get me a good chew of RedMan ,sit in my outdoor chair and ponder for a spell....I'm open and all ears. 225-910-0059 if anyone wants to cry with me???
Unfortunately my position hasn't changed. If leveling the RF frame to ground measurement with a jack don't do it, then it's your body to frame issues and you can only try to compensate at best.

As for the RedMan: a Nicotine addiction can be cured in one week.

-W (quit smoking last year - so as to have more money to dump into Old Thirsty)
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:35 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Clams Canino
All you guys that are going on and on about suspension, bushings, and swabilizer bars - are ignoring the simple statement above.

In fact - The one place where his frame is not level, it's going 1/4 inch OPPOSITE the problem lean. I'll say it again, suspension only levels (or tilts) the frame of the car. His problem seems clearly with the body... iether incorrect body mount shims or poor damage repair.

The only hope he has (frame and suspension wise) is that Roger is right and there is a problem keeping the right front frame "high" this making the left rear "low".

But past that, the body shim measurements he mentioned seem to come into play.

I'm basing the above strictly on the OP's reports of his frame to ground measurements.

-W
Clams- thanks again for your input> I suspect my next move is to bring her to a body shop? What is your recommendation going forward?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mikejpss
Clams- thanks again for your input> I suspect my next move is to bring her to a body shop? What is your recommendation going forward?
A body shop WITH a good frame machine is needed here.
Pay them first to DIAGNOSE the problem, and later to fix it if you can't.

You could prolly "Bubba" it straighter by playing with RF and LR spring heights - but I would not even think about doing that untill a body/frame shop told me what the underlying problem was.

-W
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Old May 6, 2010 | 03:20 PM
  #33  
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From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Default Noon update

OK, while I've lost 2 years salary in the market today, I'm still plowing ahead on the lean problem with the Corvette. Talked to my body shop manager, he recommends A. re-checking the coil springs to insure they were installed correctly, B.check the body mounts,especially on the drivers side.
Body mounts (bm) numbers 1 and 4 can be seen from under the car & they look to be ok. I inspected #3bm yesterday, it looks like #2 pictured here that I just removed from the kick panel (top only, I realize the bottom section is under the body still).all 3 pics are the drivers side number 2 bm only.
see the pics:
[IMG][/IMG]
same bmount-different angle
[IMG][/IMG]
de bolt & upper rubber
[IMG][/IMG]
One can see the metal insert in the mount is NOT toast,rusted,collapsed,etc...
any comments?

Last edited by mikejpss; May 6, 2010 at 03:24 PM. Reason: spell check
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Old May 6, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #34  
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Distance from bottom of rocker panel to bottom of frame is 1 inch pass side, 3/8 drivers side.(There is more exposed frame on pass side).

Is it possible the rocker channel on the pass side was replaced with a rocker channel insert kit for only that side?

Looks like the pass side of the body is uniformly too high on the frame.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 03:47 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mysixtynine
Distance from bottom of rocker panel to bottom of frame is 1 inch pass side, 3/8 drivers side.(There is more exposed frame on pass side).

Is it possible the rocker channel on the pass side was replaced with a rocker channel insert kit for only that side?

Looks like the pass side of the body is uniformly too high on the frame.

The pass side of the body IS about 1/2 to 5/8'' higher off the frame than the DRIVERS side.
The ONLY thing I can see different is the rocker panel (the black metal piece that is screwed to the body panels- runs horizontal ) on the pass side it appears to be shorter than the one on the drivers side- say by about 3/8 inch.In other words, the pass rocker has about 1/4' body exposed at the rear end, about 1/8' body exposed at front end. The drivers side rocker covers the body completely on both ends.
Factory settings????Thank you VERY much for your input.

Last edited by mikejpss; May 6, 2010 at 05:02 PM. Reason: wrong word removed
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Old May 6, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #36  
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I had about a 1" droop on the rear drivers side of my 69. It had a problem with the rear trailing arm, which at the rear has a sheet metal box structure that supports the bolt to the rear spring. The bottom of those two boxes therefore supports the entire rear car weight, and it is made of two overlapping pieces of sheet metal that are welded. On mine the weld was broken on the drivers side and the box was noticebly lower.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #37  
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
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Originally Posted by Big Don
I had about a 1" droop on the rear drivers side of my 69. It had a problem with the rear trailing arm, which at the rear has a sheet metal box structure that supports the bolt to the rear spring. The bottom of those two boxes therefore supports the entire rear car weight, and it is made of two overlapping pieces of sheet metal that are welded. On mine the weld was broken on the drivers side and the box was noticebly lower.

Thanks for the input. I measured each "box" you're referring to. This is the box the spring bolt slip thru at the top, and accepts the bolt to rest in the lower section with a cushion mount. They're both spot-on, same measurement both sides. Thanks for adding that idea. mj
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #38  
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Nice pics Mike! Sorry to say that the rear suspension looked dead on! So as others suggested time to move on to the frame....
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:54 AM
  #39  
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I'm going to throw this out there. You are on concrete under a carport. The concrete is usually pitch +-1/4" per foot (4'width of car =1" could be your difference)) for water runoff. Though not much, the view from behind will magnify the concrete pitch. I totally removed, rebuilt, and repaired my front and rear suspension and had the same problem. Until I pulled it out further on the driveway where it was level. My 2 cents.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #40  
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[QUOTE=mikejpss;1573987762]Thanks guys for all ur input so far. I feel I am making headway by eliminating things. More data from moments ago:
I removed the front stabalizer bolts from the A Arms:
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

NO CHANGE in the lean to left as seen here:
[IMG][/IMG]

Hey is it me (maybe the camera angle) that driverside front sping coils look too close together at the bottom almost binding?

Can you get a pic of each front spring from the same perspective? Those springs look fairly new. Just seems the pass side coils are much further apart than the drivers side. Again, could just be the camera angle.

Just trying to be helpful.
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