Radiator outlet hits sway bar
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Sterling Heights Michigan
Radiator outlet hits sway bar
I picked up this 80 a few weeks ago. After driving around for a while I noticed that the coolant tank was empty after I filled it. I finally found a puddle of coolant under the car last night and when I took a peek the radiator outlet is hitting the sway bar. I can't tell where exactly the leak was from, everything was wet, I cleaned it up and now it isn't leaking.
Can someone look at the picture and tell me how close the hose is supposed to be to the sway bar? This just doesn't seem right. I can wiggle the radiator outlet by hand, I am assuming I will be buying a new radiator shortly here.
View from under the front bumper
View from above
Also, is there a heater control valve on these cars? I have a valve of some sort with a capped vacuum line on one of the heater hoses, can I just remove this?
Can someone look at the picture and tell me how close the hose is supposed to be to the sway bar? This just doesn't seem right. I can wiggle the radiator outlet by hand, I am assuming I will be buying a new radiator shortly here.
View from under the front bumper
View from above
Also, is there a heater control valve on these cars? I have a valve of some sort with a capped vacuum line on one of the heater hoses, can I just remove this?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Just took a couple pics of my 78'. Looks just like yours (or worse). Looks like I have a small drip as well. Clearly the clamp rubs the sway bare. I'm thinking the hose is on to far.
Also, that is a heater water valve and should be connected to the HVAC controls in the center console.
Gary
Also, that is a heater water valve and should be connected to the HVAC controls in the center console.
Gary
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Sterling Heights Michigan
The saddle bracket is what the radiator sits in? There was no rubber in between, I tried to get the 'finger' on the bottom of the rad to drop into the slots in the bracket, but everything was too tight and it caused the radiator to hit the sway bar more.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Well, you have to pull the radiator...regardless of what you do with it. You might as well 'trot' it down to the local radiator shop and ask them to check it out and make an estimate to repair it. Fittings are easy to resolder, so the leak is no big issue. My bet is that getting it recored, leaks sealed and repainted will cost you much less than a new aluminum radiator. But, if you wanted a new aluminum radiator... 
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Sterling Heights Michigan
I would probably just replace it with a regular stock replacement if it needed to be, I see radiatorbarn and autozone both want about $230 for a replacement metal one.
I'll pull it this weekend and flush it out real good and see if I can find a shop to pressure check it for me I guess.
I'll pull it this weekend and flush it out real good and see if I can find a shop to pressure check it for me I guess.
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 141
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From: Greer SC
I had to remove my radiator, heat the neck and took a breaker bar and hammered a groove in the neck that went right over the bar then heated the whole neck and took a pipe and slightly re-angled the neck upward. It was a risky move but so far so good. I would still like to know how people are putting aftermarket 1" and 1 1/4" bars on them.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
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From: Savannah GA
There are supposed to be rubber molded mount spacers between the rad support and the tanks. These keep both vibration and physical interference at bay, and space the radiator so there's no interference. They fit in the grooved lower mount pad, and in the upper mount bracket. If your lower hose location is similar to those pictured, you have a problem with the rubber isolators, the core support or the radiator itself. Get a parts book, AIM, and/or a GM manual out and see what is amiss before you end up walking home some night.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
There are supposed to be rubber molded mount spacers between the rad support and the tanks. These keep both vibration and physical interference at bay, and space the radiator so there's no interference. They fit in the grooved lower mount pad, and in the upper mount bracket. If your lower hose location is similar to those pictured, you have a problem with the rubber isolators, the core support or the radiator itself. Get a parts book, AIM, and/or a GM manual out and see what is amiss before you end up walking home some night.
If you look at the 1st pic, the rubber seat seems to be missing, since there is an empty hole for the retaining tab.
That rubber will lift you up about 1/4"
The whole core support is adjustable and can be lifted up about 3/8" with no problems.
You can also make some shim plates for the stabilizer bar to lower it.
Even when set up right, there is only about 1/4" or so clearance.
