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You can use a torch to burn the rubber out but it is a nasty, dirty, and smelly process.
Or, do what I did, go to a local garage and give the guy $20 to swap the bushing for you. Dropped them off on the way to work, picked them up on the way home.
BTW, my buddy and I did the air chisel thing but was also a long slow process unless you have a big compressor, vise, etc.
Or, do what I did, go to a local garage and give the guy $20 to swap the bushing for you. Dropped them off on the way to work, picked them up on the way home.
Last time I went to a "local garage" was to get the universals removed from the 1/2 shafts. "Big Hammer Bubba" bent the spindle flanges and I had a HELL of a time getting them straight again. I'm just afraid of what a guy like that could do with my A-arms and an air chisel.
None the less... I might try dropping them off for removal to a different shop. But Bubba lives, hides, and works somewhere in the Deep South - I'm sure of it.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; May 23, 2010 at 01:01 PM.
You can take them to a real "automotive machine shop" not a repair garage. Most of these guys are a little older, have had some experience with them, and also a little more common sense sometimes.
For really tough stubborn ones, you can cut the rubber out with a drill and proper sized hole saw, then carefully slice the outer metal with a small air saw (careful to not cut the a arm) and then they almost fall out when beat inwards with little mess.
If buying any tools, I would go the holesaw, air file route.
At least you'll have the tools when it's time again in 30 years.
I clamped my lowers in a vise and used a small sharp chisel to work the flange up a tad, then used my pickle fork as a wedge to gently pry them out. For installation I welded up a cradle of sorts out of scrap flat stock and used a suitably sized socket powered by a 2 lb. hammer to drive them home. Uppers were pressed out using the vise jaw and a piece of 2 1/2 inch schedule 40 PVC as a spacer. Two sockets to install first bush, one socket and support on vise jaw for second. Not too tough, and damage free!
I would also recommend an automotive machine shop but if you try to do it yourself start with the upper arms the lowers are a real challenge to remove.
I would also recommend an automotive machine shop but if you try to do it yourself start with the upper arms the lowers are a real challenge to remove.
OK... I'll try the uppers 1st. If it seems to be "too much" they can go to a machine shop for removal.
The shop wants $50 bucks to take out the bushings. I can buy the air chizel for less than $50 bucks and I learn something. I also now have an air chizel for future use. When I was young I had a jeep. I needed a cutting torch and a welder to fix it. I still have the torch and welder 25 year later and have used them for everything under the sun
If IF ... IF ... you're replacing w/ POLYurethane AND your current old outer shells are not damaged ... you can get em ready for poly with only an $8 hole saw & a penknife ... NO fire, NO press, NO chisel, NO airfile, NO saw ... search where I posted several times about it ... but my method does NOT apply if you replace w/ rubber. ... poly only.
fyi ... if you've got a robust air comp ... you can use an air chisel ... cheap ones are about $25.
The shop wants $50 bucks to take out the bushings. I can buy the air chizel for less than $50 bucks and I learn something. I also now have an air chizel for future use. When I was young I had a jeep. I needed a cutting torch and a welder to fix it. I still have the torch and welder 25 year later and have used them for everything under the sun
I like the way you think... and that's me all over - usually.
But I know in my heart of hearts I will never again in this lifetime take on such a task. I don't really "like" working on cars, particularly the non-engine stuff. I won't even work on I/O's in my outboard business except to change the oil or the raw-water pump.
I work on THIS car only because of the long relationship, and the money. I had a ball joint go sounth on the Marquis - I had local garage fix it. I've gone 50 years without an air-chisel so far in life.
Quite frankly the rear end took too long... I plan to farm out some of the sand-blasting up front too. I just want my car back and there is still so much to do.............
The one I use is Astro Upper Control Arm Bushing Service Set #7866. It runs about $80 and not only will it remove them, but can be used to install them. Plus, with a some additional tricks can be used for the lower ball joints.
clams canino, I just got done doing the same job and I drilled the rubber out then the hammer or a torch to burn the rubber. After that I used a jig saw with metal cutting blade to cut the shell in two spots then hammer it out. A word of encouragement,your car will drive like brand new when you get done!
Quite frankly the rear end took too long... I plan to farm out some of the sand-blasting up front too. I just want my car back and there is still so much to do.............
-W
Clams several of the suppliers offer reconditioned a-arms with exchange.
Most are powder coated and ready to bolt in place. Definitely a time saver, not so easy on the wallet.