Got my 76 finally...help
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 24,650
Likes: 8
Got my 76 finally...help
I finally got it in my driveway, and I got to say.....this should get interesting.
Things it will need right off, the ignition switch it rough, it takes some work to get the key out and to get it back to the "off" position.
PRevious owner put a toggle switch in place of the factory wiper controls...but the surround is still there and very good condition, no switches though. Im assuming the wires are still behind the cover.
There is a tiny Kenwood radio where the factory unit should be..but the ***** are still there, odd.
The only real electrical issues I can physically see after about 30 minutes of poking around, are 2 wires that come out around the center console on the drivers side, and run over the console to the drivers side..didnt have enough light to see where they went.
Couple questions.
What does the **** under the dash, below the column do?
What does the **** under the speedo do? Has 3 positions...in, middle, out.
Things it will need right off, the ignition switch it rough, it takes some work to get the key out and to get it back to the "off" position.
PRevious owner put a toggle switch in place of the factory wiper controls...but the surround is still there and very good condition, no switches though. Im assuming the wires are still behind the cover.
There is a tiny Kenwood radio where the factory unit should be..but the ***** are still there, odd.
The only real electrical issues I can physically see after about 30 minutes of poking around, are 2 wires that come out around the center console on the drivers side, and run over the console to the drivers side..didnt have enough light to see where they went.
Couple questions.
What does the **** under the dash, below the column do?
What does the **** under the speedo do? Has 3 positions...in, middle, out.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
The **** below the dash is for your headlight override switch. If you pull it down. It will cause the lights to open but not turn the lights on.
The other might be your trip odometer reset, maybe....
Once again the actor Steve Buscemi pops into my head again... weird.....
The other might be your trip odometer reset, maybe....
Once again the actor Steve Buscemi pops into my head again... weird.....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 24,650
Likes: 8
okay, think I figured it out, one on both sides of the dash, must go to the vents under the dash, makes sense looking at it all in better light.
Now, I go to hook a fresh battery up today...door buzzer works, interior lights work, exterior lights work...but my ignition switch problems continue, I cant even turn the key today to try anything out..wont even budge..also now the column lock isnt doing anything, turns freely.
any ideas on where to start?
Now, I go to hook a fresh battery up today...door buzzer works, interior lights work, exterior lights work...but my ignition switch problems continue, I cant even turn the key today to try anything out..wont even budge..also now the column lock isnt doing anything, turns freely.
any ideas on where to start?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
The little black ***** sticking down under the steering column are for the wiper door override and the headlight override. They allow you to manually raise the wiper door and/or the headlights. Their purpose is to facilitate changing bulbs/wipers and to cause them to stay up in freezing weather so they won't be frozen "closed". There is a black **** between those pull-*****; that is a wiper motor "manual stop". Use the wiper door override to open the door [and keep it open], then turn on wipers till they are vertical...then turn that **** to stop the wipers in place.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 24,650
Likes: 8
I figured out that if I turn the key backwards and pull out, then turn forwrds...it will turn to the run and start positions.
But it doesnt feel right when I turn to "start" and the engine doesnt turn over..no clicks, no noises and the lights dont even dim.
But it doesnt feel right when I turn to "start" and the engine doesnt turn over..no clicks, no noises and the lights dont even dim.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,456
Likes: 102
From: Piedmont Va
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13,'19-'20
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Do you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a T&T? You might try a drop of synthetic motor oil on the tip of your key. Work it into the lock cylinder. Does that help?
Otherwise, your problem could be in the steering column head or it could be the switch itself. (The lock cylinder is the part in the column head where you insert your ignition key. The ignition switch is down under the dash on top of your steering column.) They are connected by a small plastic gear; a small die cast rack; and a rod that extends down from the column head to the switch itself. The rod moves up and down (inline with the steering column) as you rotate your ignition key.
BTW, there are five positions for your ignition switch. Turning counter clockwise from the START position they are as follows:
START (spring return back), RUN (detent), OFF (there is a gate inside the steering column. You must be in PARK -auto trans or REVERSE -manual trans in order to continue rotating your ignition key and reaching the next position), OFF-LOCK (you must depress the key and the lock cylinder in order to reach the next position), ACCESSORY.
Jim
Otherwise, your problem could be in the steering column head or it could be the switch itself. (The lock cylinder is the part in the column head where you insert your ignition key. The ignition switch is down under the dash on top of your steering column.) They are connected by a small plastic gear; a small die cast rack; and a rod that extends down from the column head to the switch itself. The rod moves up and down (inline with the steering column) as you rotate your ignition key.
BTW, there are five positions for your ignition switch. Turning counter clockwise from the START position they are as follows:
START (spring return back), RUN (detent), OFF (there is a gate inside the steering column. You must be in PARK -auto trans or REVERSE -manual trans in order to continue rotating your ignition key and reaching the next position), OFF-LOCK (you must depress the key and the lock cylinder in order to reach the next position), ACCESSORY.
Jim
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 24,650
Likes: 8
I tried removing the instrument cluster and some stuff to do some learning...
I learned that those ***** are what opens and closes the A/C ball vents they are next to.
Also learned that the bezel around the 2 main gauges is very fragile, mine now needs to be replaced...
Also found that there was some sort of strap above the light switch, could have been a ground? but it wasnt hooked up to anything..
There is a gray wire bundled with what is left of the wiper motor switch wires behind there...its been cut and isnt hooked to anything. Could this be what powers a wiper washer motor?
How do I get to the ignition switch on the steering column? I was thinking remove the gauge pods and the bezel...and go from the top, but apparently all that idea has gotten me is a broken gauge surround.
Ive got a lock cylinder coming from Napa...How is that thing replaced?
I need to just buy a manual I guess...
I learned that those ***** are what opens and closes the A/C ball vents they are next to.
Also learned that the bezel around the 2 main gauges is very fragile, mine now needs to be replaced...
Also found that there was some sort of strap above the light switch, could have been a ground? but it wasnt hooked up to anything..
There is a gray wire bundled with what is left of the wiper motor switch wires behind there...its been cut and isnt hooked to anything. Could this be what powers a wiper washer motor?
How do I get to the ignition switch on the steering column? I was thinking remove the gauge pods and the bezel...and go from the top, but apparently all that idea has gotten me is a broken gauge surround.
Ive got a lock cylinder coming from Napa...How is that thing replaced?
I need to just buy a manual I guess...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
You didn't answer if you had a T&T column or a standard. The two are similar but different when taking them apart. To get to the ignition switch you need to drop the column down from the dash. The switch is mounted up inside the brake support bracket. Hard for a thief to hot wire; difficult to work on the column for service.
Go to:
www.corvettefaq.com
click on Steering Papers
click on Jim Shea's Steering Papers
click on Corvette Steering Papers
scroll down to the Standard Steering Column Section or scroll down to the Tilt & Telescoping 69-82 Steering Column Section
Download the first paper in either section. That paper will describe how to remove the ignition lock cylinder.
Jim
Go to:
www.corvettefaq.com
click on Steering Papers
click on Jim Shea's Steering Papers
click on Corvette Steering Papers
scroll down to the Standard Steering Column Section or scroll down to the Tilt & Telescoping 69-82 Steering Column Section
Download the first paper in either section. That paper will describe how to remove the ignition lock cylinder.
Jim
