Rear spindle and trailing arm separation
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
Rear spindle and trailing arm separation
Okay. I've successfully cut out 1 of the trailing arms. Just some boring saws all work and some lube.
Now i need to figure out if i need special tools in order to get the parts I'm keeping off the old T/A and onto the new T/A?
Do i need to pull the spindle out and all that or does the whole assembly just split from the T/A where i can then put it on the new one?
I saw it was a LOT of $$$$$$ for the tools so i figured i'd ask first before trying to bubba it out.
Nasty inner spindle
The entire T/A
And the mess i made!
Now i need to figure out if i need special tools in order to get the parts I'm keeping off the old T/A and onto the new T/A?
Do i need to pull the spindle out and all that or does the whole assembly just split from the T/A where i can then put it on the new one?
I saw it was a LOT of $$$$$$ for the tools so i figured i'd ask first before trying to bubba it out.
Nasty inner spindle
The entire T/A
And the mess i made!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
WOW!!...guess I was very lucky in that mine just unbolted and came out.
I am pretty sure the spindles need to come out in order to get to the bearings and such.
WOW...good luck. I went the expensive route and sent mine to VanSteel. $1200 later and back in.
Good luck.
I am pretty sure the spindles need to come out in order to get to the bearings and such.
WOW...good luck. I went the expensive route and sent mine to VanSteel. $1200 later and back in.
Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Are you replacing just the T/A or the T/A and bearing housing?
Either way, you need to remove the spindles to get at the bolts that hold the T/A and housing together. You can see the heads of the bolts in the picture looking at the spindle.
I took mine apart by installing the nut only on the spindle backwards, supporting the T/A so the spindle was free, and rapped it with a 5lb brass hammer. Came right out. Had to press the bearing off the outer spindle. Keep the shims and other parts in order.
Either way, you need to remove the spindles to get at the bolts that hold the T/A and housing together. You can see the heads of the bolts in the picture looking at the spindle.
I took mine apart by installing the nut only on the spindle backwards, supporting the T/A so the spindle was free, and rapped it with a 5lb brass hammer. Came right out. Had to press the bearing off the outer spindle. Keep the shims and other parts in order.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
The bearing carrier complete with spindle can be removed from the TA as a unit. You have to take the yoke off first, which you've already done.
Next remove the p-brake shoes and you can access the 4 nuts that hold the bearing carrier to the TA. The studs stay with the TA and go through the bearing carrier so it can be hard to get them apart if they have rusted.
Next remove the p-brake shoes and you can access the 4 nuts that hold the bearing carrier to the TA. The studs stay with the TA and go through the bearing carrier so it can be hard to get them apart if they have rusted.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Just take it to a good mechanic (that has rebuilt C3 trailing arms before) and let him/her do the job. You did all the hard work. Now that it's off the car, it's a "piece of cake" with the right tools.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
The bearings seem VERY smooth even though the photo makes it look a bit dirty. I was hoping i could just take the assembly apart as a whole and bolt it to the new T/A without messing with it at this time...
When i get the car running well and have time i can come back and fix it all up nice and purdy like.
those bolts holding the whole assembly on i have a feeling are going to be a pain seeing as how rusted they are...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Zwede described it exactly if you only want to do the TA's. Getting the parking brake shoes out and back in can be a real pain with the spindle in place but it can be done. If you do not want to rebuild bearings at this time get new TA's and 8 new bolts and nuts to bolt them back together. Bolts are unique with shoulders. Should come from same place you get TA's. good luck, mike...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
Zwede described it exactly if you only want to do the TA's. Getting the parking brake shoes out and back in can be a real pain with the spindle in place but it can be done. If you do not want to rebuild bearings at this time get new TA's and 8 new bolts and nuts to bolt them back together. Bolts are unique with shoulders. Should come from same place you get TA's. good luck, mike...
I'll give taking the P brake apart a try and see how that goes.
If not i guess i don't see why a $250 tool is needed to get the spindle out. Like stated above why not just put a cap nut on it then whack it with a hammer...? I'm sure there's far more risk but it's been done and worked i'm guessing.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
I was taught not to use a press or those plate spindle removers. I saw mine removed with a spindle knocker [Ecklers] and a BFH. Hold TA on bushing end with opposite end on floor and give it a whack. He did this on a wooden floored shop so no damage to spindle when it came out. Setting up bearings is something I left to him. How mine came out. mike...
Last edited by mds3013; Jun 13, 2010 at 10:45 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
I assume you're in Champaign
Give these guys a call, not too far from you and they do a lot of rear spindles etc. Supposed to be pretty good with good prices.
VTECHCORVETTE
Stillman Valley, Illinois
815 262 1681
Give these guys a call, not too far from you and they do a lot of rear spindles etc. Supposed to be pretty good with good prices.
VTECHCORVETTE
Stillman Valley, Illinois
815 262 1681
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
I can tell you i'll attempt this till i break something before i drive 4 hours to a shop.
But it's good to know where the nearest one is for when i do really need them.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
I have another quick question about the spindle.
I had to order some stuff online so i added a spindle knockout tool just to have.
I'm wondering if i use the knockout tool to knock the spindle out to have better access to the parking brake and bearing carrier will i need another special tool to get it back in? Even if i don't touch the bearings at this time?
this?
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=25245
I had to order some stuff online so i added a spindle knockout tool just to have.
I'm wondering if i use the knockout tool to knock the spindle out to have better access to the parking brake and bearing carrier will i need another special tool to get it back in? Even if i don't touch the bearings at this time?
this?
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=25245
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Jun 19, 2010 at 10:19 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
I would never reuse a bearing after knocking the spindle out. Each whack of the sledge will slam the rollers into the race.
I use a press (cheapo harbor freight 12 ton) to assemble the spindle/bearings. Don't know what you'd do without a press.
I use a press (cheapo harbor freight 12 ton) to assemble the spindle/bearings. Don't know what you'd do without a press.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
I know everyone said to do the fronts while i had them out. I took them all apart and damned if they looked brand new still. re packed them with new grease and didn't bother replacing the races or bearings until i knew something was wrong with them...
I just don't want to knock the spindle out if i have to order another tool($75), wait another week for it to ship, then maybe even find a press to use the thing, just to get the spindle back on the assembly. They said above this all can be done without messing with the spindle...even if it is the harder way it seems like i'm creating too many projects all at once and will never get the car back on the road this summer.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
I'll give that a nice read through as it looks like just what i need.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
I wondered how and why you completely avoided using the set up tool and until I read this: "I like grinding out the inner bearing so that it is a light press fit." gack.
Not for the average rebuilder.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
Heh heh... yeah, I know. The inner bearing elicits strong feelings. I do want to make clear that I only remove a tiny amount of metal. It's still a press fit, NOT a slip fit. You just don't need a 10 lbs sledge to get it off.
I just got done re-doing the trailing arms (the work on the webpage was in 2004). Reason I had to redo it was that the spindles turned out to be cheap chinese imports and were twisting. The inner bearing showed no signs of spinning on the spindle and was in perfect condition.
I just got done re-doing the trailing arms (the work on the webpage was in 2004). Reason I had to redo it was that the spindles turned out to be cheap chinese imports and were twisting. The inner bearing showed no signs of spinning on the spindle and was in perfect condition.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
I had planned to just pump some grease into the hub on my 72 and my spindle looked a lot like yours before I took it apart. I tried reversing the nut and tapping it out but that didn't work. Finally got it apart but it was obviously junk. I didn't want to do the job twice so I had VTech rebuild mine with new axles.
Keeping the rear wheels on seemed pretty important so I bit the bullet and had a pro rebuild the hubs after I replaced the bushings. I didn't have to buy new arms so I added a little clearance by having the e-brake cable bracket welded to the top of the arm.
Keeping the rear wheels on seemed pretty important so I bit the bullet and had a pro rebuild the hubs after I replaced the bushings. I didn't have to buy new arms so I added a little clearance by having the e-brake cable bracket welded to the top of the arm.