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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:06 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Default Body off?

Where is the breaking point to removing the body? This car was in poor running condition when I purchased it 9 years ago, and now is the time to really dig into it. I've pulled and disassembled the engine after it had major oil leak problems and terrible performance issues.

The frame and birdcage seem to be in OK condition. The body is in poor condition: the doors rub the front quarter panels, and a crack in the rear wheel well. The bumpers are junk, naturally.

I am replacing both suspensions and the steering. I need a new gas tank. I'd like to replace the gas and break lines as well.

With the corvette forum as the jury, do I have grounds to pull the body off its frame?
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Yes, and while you're at it .......
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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From: the land of a never ending frame-off resto-mod. May Visa have mercy on my soul.
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May Visa have mercy on your soul. You just need a few things to get started: Money, more money, a place to do it, and lots more money.

Plan on 2-3k for suspension and steering rebuild.
500-700 for trans rebuild.
600 for the rearend-bearings, seals, and set-up.
2k-5k for the engine depending on build.
Brake lines, gas lines, radiator and hoses etc...
Body mount kit, u-joints(6), gas tank.
Wiring harnesses about 2k.
Interior replacement(who wants 30 year old crap in there). 2500.00
Lots of misc. hardware, parts, tools that you will need, first aid supply's.

An incredible amount of sweat equity, frustration, dealing with idiots, and little assistance.

Go for it. 5 years and I am gettin closer to a finish.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by indy99
May Visa have mercy on your soul. You just need a few things to get started: Money, more money, a place to do it, and lots more money.

Plan on 2-3k for suspension and steering rebuild.
500-700 for trans rebuild.
600 for the rearend-bearings, seals, and set-up.
2k-5k for the engine depending on build.
Brake lines, gas lines, radiator and hoses etc...
Body mount kit, u-joints(6), gas tank.
Wiring harnesses about 2k.
Interior replacement(who wants 30 year old crap in there). 2500.00
Lots of misc. hardware, parts, tools that you will need, first aid supply's.

An incredible amount of sweat equity, frustration, dealing with idiots, and little assistance.

Go for it. 5 years and I am gettin closer to a finish.
Check, check, aaaaand check. New 30' x 40' garage, a savings account ready to be depleted, and a wife who even helped pull the engine. Some have likened it to heaven (even a bar in the garage).

Am I ready?
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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I should probably clarify, this isn't for a full frame-off restoration. I am not interested in refurbishing every single part on this car. This will not be a numbers matching, keep it stock job. Interior, suspension, engine, steering and brakes are the main points. I won't be sandblasting, etching, and rewelding frame (unless something awful is found).
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by foxymophandlpapa
I should probably clarify, this isn't for a full frame-off restoration. I am not interested in refurbishing every single part on this car. This will not be a numbers matching, keep it stock job. Interior, suspension, engine, steering and brakes are the main points. I won't be sandblasting, etching, and rewelding frame (unless something awful is found).
That's so refreshing!

If you go to the trouble of taking the body off, you'll be finding all kinds of "awful."

The first time the words "As long as we've got it this far apart" come out of your wife's or your mouth, the fun begins. You'll find a powdercoater who will do your frame for a couple of hundred. He'll even sandblast it for you. May as well have the new offset trailing arms done at the same time.

Welcome to the "it won't cost that much" club!
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 01:46 AM
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If I added up every 10 or 20 or 30 dollar "as long as I have it this far" item I bought for my frame on resto(not even getting into the bigger dollar stuff) I'd probably commit myself to an institution. I can't imagine a frame off. You think it won't end up like that, but it will. New bushings for that are only 20 bucks...new bolts for this are only 30 bucks...new bearings for those are only 40 bucks....and so on and so on for ever and ever.
That being said.....there is no greater satisfaction than knowing it looks or runs or handles as well as it does because of what YOU have done.
I painted,rebuilt the motor and trans,and did the suspension all on my own. Is it all absolutely perfect....no....but it looks better, runs better, and handles better than a lot of the cars out there.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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I would be concerned about the "doors rubbing the front quarter panels", above anything else you've found. This condition can be due to the birdcage being rusted to the point that the door pillars begin to sag. You really need to dig deep and check out that birdcage well before you spend a bunch of buck$ on your project. If you are certain everything is solid with the frame/birdcage, the door realignment should not be a problem.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 09:27 AM
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Thanks 7T1. The doors rub because the previous owner had hit a deer, but nonetheless its worth a full investigation. I've checked the major spots and they seem to be in solid shape.

Regardless, this project will get completed. The car is nearly a family heirloom. I fear castration if I junked it.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by foxymophandlpapa
...do I have grounds to pull the body off its frame?...
That depends totally on you. Based on what you've posted, everything you want to do can be accomplished with the body on the frame.

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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
That depends totally on you. Based on what you've posted, everything you want to do can be accomplished with the body on the frame.

Thanks Mike, that was the response I was actually expecting. Granted, with the body off, my job becomes infinitely easier, but then I gotta consider the actual job of removing the body.

I think I'm going to make the plunge this weekend.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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Well....with the body off you have easier access. But, getting the body off (and back on properly) is no simple task. I agree with Mike. Unless you just have to pull the body...don't.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by foxymophandlpapa
Where is the breaking point to removing the body? With the corvette forum as the jury, do I have grounds to pull the body off its frame?
If you're going to do anything more than change the oil, pull the body. On the assembly line, the body was one of the last things installed, so it should be the first thing you remove. Change the spark plugs...? Heck, pull the body. Drop the tranny out the bottom to change the clutch..? Heck no! Pull the body and lift the tranny out the top. Here is a photo of my body coming off, just because some friends were over, we were drinking beer and ran out of things to do. If they didn't want you to pull the body off, they wouldn't have put bolts in it..! There is no reason to not pull your body off - just do it!
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Remember to count the shims in each mount locations if you pull the body !!!!
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Lars is right its a whole lot easier to work around and looks cool to the neighbors
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by oleyellar72
Remember to count the shims in each mount locations if you pull the body !!!!
Well, I didn't count the shims when I pulled the body and they fell all over the garage floor. I'm using polyurethane body mounts from VB&P. How many shims should I use as a baseline, and how/where do I measure to adjust the number of shims.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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I asked the same question 2 weeks ago start searching
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mffi115
Well, I didn't count the shims when I pulled the body and they fell all over the garage floor. I'm using polyurethane body mounts from VB&P. How many shims should I use as a baseline, and how/where do I measure to adjust the number of shims.
Start with two per mount as a baseline and increase/decrease according to your gaps.
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