zz4 power upgrade
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Avoid the Thumpr cams. All show and no go.
Get some good AFR heads and bigger hyd roller and enjoy.
If you want to go radical, here is 520 hp @6600 rpm build up of a ZZ4.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ine/index.html
Get some good AFR heads and bigger hyd roller and enjoy.
If you want to go radical, here is 520 hp @6600 rpm build up of a ZZ4.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ine/index.html
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 1
From: Winston-Salem NC
Avoid the Thumpr cams. All show and no go.
Get some good AFR heads and bigger hyd roller and enjoy.
If you want to go radical, here is 520 hp @6600 rpm build up of a ZZ4.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ine/index.html
Get some good AFR heads and bigger hyd roller and enjoy.
If you want to go radical, here is 520 hp @6600 rpm build up of a ZZ4.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ine/index.html
Good article - I have been looking at ways to improve my ZZ4
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
I have a pretty well running ZZ4 that is modified some and producing 385-400 HP I figure based off my chassis dyno runs.
It has:
Ported ZZ4 heads - at home, nothing fancy, just cleaned up
Manley race flow valves and springs
AFR rev kit
GM's LT4 Hot Cam
Headers and true duals
BG 650 mechanical secondary carb
It has:
Ported ZZ4 heads - at home, nothing fancy, just cleaned up
Manley race flow valves and springs
AFR rev kit
GM's LT4 Hot Cam
Headers and true duals
BG 650 mechanical secondary carb
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
I have a pretty well running ZZ4 that is modified some and producing 385-400 HP I figure based off my chassis dyno runs.
It has:
Ported ZZ4 heads - at home, nothing fancy, just cleaned up
Manley race flow valves and springs
AFR rev kit
GM's LT4 Hot Cam
Headers and true duals
BG 650 mechanical secondary carb
It has:
Ported ZZ4 heads - at home, nothing fancy, just cleaned up
Manley race flow valves and springs
AFR rev kit
GM's LT4 Hot Cam
Headers and true duals
BG 650 mechanical secondary carb
What did you do between run one and run 2? Whatever you did made a huge difference.
(edit- I see they cut the first run short at around 4700 rpm)
If you don't mind, can you give me some details on your build? (Part numbers or links to the valve/springs, AFR rev kit, what did your port job consist of, what headers did you use, etc.)
Thanks
Last edited by KWIL; Jun 27, 2010 at 11:17 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
The difference in the dyno runs was jetting. I was WAY lean on the first run, thats why it was cut short to prevent damage to the engine.
As far as the build goes, well I probably went overkill on the valvetrain, but I was having valve float on a previous build of this engine and wanted to be sure I cured the problem.
Valves - stock size Manley Race Flow Valves (p/n 11521 & 11522)
Push Rod Guide Plates - Comp Cams CCA-4808-8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4808-8/
Head Gaskets - FelPro p/n Z1010
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1010/
Push Rods - Trick Flow p/n 21407200
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Valve Retainers - Manley p/n23634
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-23634-16/
Valve Springs - Manely NexTek p/n 221423
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-221423-16/
Center Bolt Stud Girdle - Moroso 67040
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-67040/
Center Bolt Valve Covers - Moroso 68025
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68025/
AFR rev kit for factory lifters p/n 6155
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
Cam - GM's LT4 HotCam - don't know part number. I purchased this used from a friend with about 10K miles on it.
Rockers - Not sure of the brand right now - purchased from friend also, but they were 1.6 full roller style rockers. Brand shouldn't really matter anyway.
Headers - Dynomax Cyclone ceramic coated long tube headers
If you use the Moroso stud girdle's then you have to use some sort of tall valve cover. Be warned this makes installing and tightening the alternator a bit tricky (you'll need a longer alt. belt).
Also, I think I used MAN-13091 Vale locks, but I seam to recall I had to purchase +.050 locks to get the installed valve height correct (http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/...components.pdf). You will need to purchase a valve spring heigth mic (http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc) and use valve spring shims to get the installed height set correctly. I had to trim the edges of the shims to make them fit the valve pockets on the ZZ4 heads.
As far as the porting goes, I did a fairly light porting job. I removed all the casting flash in the ports (yes GM left casting flash in the air flow
) and smoothed out the machining steps from where they did the valve seat cuts. They're obvious once you remove the heads. I didn't try to reshape or open up the entire port. Just smooth up the ports and removed any obvious obstructions to the airflow. It was my first porting job so I was very conservative.
Hope this helps.
Jason
As far as the build goes, well I probably went overkill on the valvetrain, but I was having valve float on a previous build of this engine and wanted to be sure I cured the problem.
Valves - stock size Manley Race Flow Valves (p/n 11521 & 11522)
Push Rod Guide Plates - Comp Cams CCA-4808-8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4808-8/
Head Gaskets - FelPro p/n Z1010
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1010/
Push Rods - Trick Flow p/n 21407200
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Valve Retainers - Manley p/n23634
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-23634-16/
Valve Springs - Manely NexTek p/n 221423
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-221423-16/
Center Bolt Stud Girdle - Moroso 67040
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-67040/
Center Bolt Valve Covers - Moroso 68025
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68025/
AFR rev kit for factory lifters p/n 6155
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
Cam - GM's LT4 HotCam - don't know part number. I purchased this used from a friend with about 10K miles on it.
Rockers - Not sure of the brand right now - purchased from friend also, but they were 1.6 full roller style rockers. Brand shouldn't really matter anyway.
Headers - Dynomax Cyclone ceramic coated long tube headers
If you use the Moroso stud girdle's then you have to use some sort of tall valve cover. Be warned this makes installing and tightening the alternator a bit tricky (you'll need a longer alt. belt).
Also, I think I used MAN-13091 Vale locks, but I seam to recall I had to purchase +.050 locks to get the installed valve height correct (http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/...components.pdf). You will need to purchase a valve spring heigth mic (http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc) and use valve spring shims to get the installed height set correctly. I had to trim the edges of the shims to make them fit the valve pockets on the ZZ4 heads.
As far as the porting goes, I did a fairly light porting job. I removed all the casting flash in the ports (yes GM left casting flash in the air flow
) and smoothed out the machining steps from where they did the valve seat cuts. They're obvious once you remove the heads. I didn't try to reshape or open up the entire port. Just smooth up the ports and removed any obvious obstructions to the airflow. It was my first porting job so I was very conservative.Hope this helps.
Jason
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 13,300
Likes: 16
From: TX
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
The difference in the dyno runs was jetting. I was WAY lean on the first run, thats why it was cut short to prevent damage to the engine.
As far as the build goes, well I probably went overkill on the valvetrain, but I was having valve float on a previous build of this engine and wanted to be sure I cured the problem.
Valves - stock size Manley Race Flow Valves (p/n 11521 & 11522)
Push Rod Guide Plates - Comp Cams CCA-4808-8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4808-8/
Head Gaskets - FelPro p/n Z1010
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1010/
Push Rods - Trick Flow p/n 21407200
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Valve Retainers - Manley p/n23634
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-23634-16/
Valve Springs - Manely NexTek p/n 221423
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-221423-16/
Center Bolt Stud Girdle - Moroso 67040
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-67040/
Center Bolt Valve Covers - Moroso 68025
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68025/
AFR rev kit for factory lifters p/n 6155
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
Cam - GM's LT4 HotCam - don't know part number. I purchased this used from a friend with about 10K miles on it.
Rockers - Not sure of the brand right now - purchased from friend also, but they were 1.6 full roller style rockers. Brand shouldn't really matter anyway.
Headers - Dynomax Cyclone ceramic coated long tube headers
If you use the Moroso stud girdle's then you have to use some sort of tall valve cover. Be warned this makes installing and tightening the alternator a bit tricky (you'll need a longer alt. belt).
Also, I think I used MAN-13091 Vale locks, but I seam to recall I had to purchase +.050 locks to get the installed valve height correct (http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/...components.pdf). You will need to purchase a valve spring heigth mic (http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc) and use valve spring shims to get the installed height set correctly. I had to trim the edges of the shims to make them fit the valve pockets on the ZZ4 heads.
As far as the porting goes, I did a fairly light porting job. I removed all the casting flash in the ports (yes GM left casting flash in the air flow) and smoothed out the machining steps from where they did the valve seat cuts. They're obvious once you remove the heads. I didn't try to reshape or open up the entire port. Just smooth up the ports and removed any obvious obstructions to the airflow. It was my first porting job so I was very conservative.
Hope this helps.
Jason
As far as the build goes, well I probably went overkill on the valvetrain, but I was having valve float on a previous build of this engine and wanted to be sure I cured the problem.
Valves - stock size Manley Race Flow Valves (p/n 11521 & 11522)
Push Rod Guide Plates - Comp Cams CCA-4808-8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4808-8/
Head Gaskets - FelPro p/n Z1010
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1010/
Push Rods - Trick Flow p/n 21407200
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407200/
Valve Retainers - Manley p/n23634
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-23634-16/
Valve Springs - Manely NexTek p/n 221423
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-221423-16/
Center Bolt Stud Girdle - Moroso 67040
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-67040/
Center Bolt Valve Covers - Moroso 68025
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-68025/
AFR rev kit for factory lifters p/n 6155
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75
Cam - GM's LT4 HotCam - don't know part number. I purchased this used from a friend with about 10K miles on it.
Rockers - Not sure of the brand right now - purchased from friend also, but they were 1.6 full roller style rockers. Brand shouldn't really matter anyway.
Headers - Dynomax Cyclone ceramic coated long tube headers
If you use the Moroso stud girdle's then you have to use some sort of tall valve cover. Be warned this makes installing and tightening the alternator a bit tricky (you'll need a longer alt. belt).
Also, I think I used MAN-13091 Vale locks, but I seam to recall I had to purchase +.050 locks to get the installed valve height correct (http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/...components.pdf). You will need to purchase a valve spring heigth mic (http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc) and use valve spring shims to get the installed height set correctly. I had to trim the edges of the shims to make them fit the valve pockets on the ZZ4 heads.
As far as the porting goes, I did a fairly light porting job. I removed all the casting flash in the ports (yes GM left casting flash in the air flow
) and smoothed out the machining steps from where they did the valve seat cuts. They're obvious once you remove the heads. I didn't try to reshape or open up the entire port. Just smooth up the ports and removed any obvious obstructions to the airflow. It was my first porting job so I was very conservative.Hope this helps.
Jason
Thanks for the info.
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