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Rust under interior panels?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Columbus OH
Rust under interior panels?
I am in the process of taking some of my interior panels off my 74. When taking the pieces off the ceiling areas behind and in front of the T TOPS rust flakes came off with the pieces. if you smack it with your hand some flakes stick to my hand. the whole this isnt rusty just certain areas. there are no holes and i dont see any weak spots so i am guessing this isnt something I should worry to much about. I am guessing this is caled the bird cage i hear so much about. I was thinking of just sanding it down and spraying some heavy duty rust preventing spray paint on before putting new interior pieces in. just what some opinions thanks 
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I am in the process of taking some of my interior panels off my 74. When taking the pieces off the ceiling areas behind and in front of the T TOPS rust flakes came off with the pieces. if you smack it with your hand some flakes stick to my hand. the whole this isnt rusty just certain areas. there are no holes and i dont see any weak spots so i am guessing this isnt something I should worry to much about. I am guessing this is caled the bird cage i hear so much about. I was thinking of just sanding it down and spraying some heavy duty rust preventing spray paint on before putting new interior pieces in. just what some opinions thanks
Rick B.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
I would use a wire brush wheel on a drill or air gun to 'dig' that rust off the surface. That will tell you if it goes deeper than the surface. If you can clean that up with the wire brush, clean it off well with a solvent then spray a coat of zinc chromate self-etching primer on it. This will seal the surface and prevent further rusting.
Obviously, there is moisture getting in at the roof panels...probably via leaky top seals. Investigate, find and fix the sources of leakage so that you don't end up with a real horror case in a few years.
Obviously, there is moisture getting in at the roof panels...probably via leaky top seals. Investigate, find and fix the sources of leakage so that you don't end up with a real horror case in a few years.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Columbus OH
awesome. i was laying in bed and couldnt sleep thinking about this so i went out side with a steel punch and started smacking at it to see if it thuds or pings lol. it seemed very strong and pinged nothing went through and no holes were created. so i will sand the heck out of it tomorrow and spray it when i get it in the mail.
QUESTION look at these links which one is the correct one to buy or are they both the same? i dont want to buy the wrong thing because i am probably going to buy a few cans for future ref. and I WANT THE BEST you can buy to prim and put a strong barrier to stop further rust. ALSO as far as leaking i am putting all new stripping on the car as well
here are the links
http://kustomaccessories.com/Yellow-...B000CPCRI6.htm
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VHT-SP306/?rtype=10
QUESTION look at these links which one is the correct one to buy or are they both the same? i dont want to buy the wrong thing because i am probably going to buy a few cans for future ref. and I WANT THE BEST you can buy to prim and put a strong barrier to stop further rust. ALSO as far as leaking i am putting all new stripping on the car as well
here are the links
http://kustomaccessories.com/Yellow-...B000CPCRI6.htm
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VHT-SP306/?rtype=10
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
i'd recommend a rust converter. it's a phosphating agent that converts the iron oxide to iron phosphate, which is a compound that will not oxidize. apply with a brush and work into all crevasses, then prime and paint. eastwood (and others) sell it.
zinc chromate is the best, but i don't think that "real" chromate is available since the epa hired the last batch of attorneys. it is dangerous stuff. the people that restore the aircraft at the smithsonian in dc use(d) chromate and epoxy. they told me that if applied properly, "it will never rust again"!
zinc chromate is the best, but i don't think that "real" chromate is available since the epa hired the last batch of attorneys. it is dangerous stuff. the people that restore the aircraft at the smithsonian in dc use(d) chromate and epoxy. they told me that if applied properly, "it will never rust again"!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,170
Likes: 4,245
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi v,
If you'd like to try some paint that still has zinc oxide in it it looks like the aircraft industry still uses it as jnb mentioned.
Try a google for aircraftspruce.
Although the factory used a zinc paint there are other good possibilities as have been mentioned.
Regards,
Alan
If you'd like to try some paint that still has zinc oxide in it it looks like the aircraft industry still uses it as jnb mentioned.
Try a google for aircraftspruce.
Although the factory used a zinc paint there are other good possibilities as have been mentioned.
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
The military uses zinc chromate for about everything that needs rust protection. It is greenish in color, but is a really good primer for any following coat and does a great job at preventing further rusting.
If you have remaining rust on the surface after cleaning, a rust converter would be appropriate, THEN use the zinc primer.
If you have remaining rust on the surface after cleaning, a rust converter would be appropriate, THEN use the zinc primer.
