My first post
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 56
Likes: 15
From: BARRINGTON Rhode Island
My first post
Ok....
Finally got my '68. 327/300
Drives great but has all the '68 problems I have read about.
Been thru this site and must already thank all the great people who contribute to help others. Hopefully some day as I get more acquainted I may be able to help someone else.
Some initial questions please....
Tach:
The tach cable is badly kinked and a bit frayed at dist connection. I understand this is quite common given the engineering. I am also guessing this is why tach doesn't work! Question is where do most of you buy your replacement parts? The car is numbers matching and in a beautiful condition. ( I promise to post pictures when my 13 year old daughter returns from camp and shows me how!)
I'd like to get the correct replacement parts and will pay more for quality.
Wiper/wiper door:
Grrrr.looks like this is going to be a lot of fun!
Wow! What a great site Wilcox has for info...would like to give them the part business if their inventory and quality are half what their site is.
seems as though someone tried to "bubba"(I believe that is the term here...
) the vacuum lines, switches, overides..just about everything including drill out a new override for wipers right thru the wiper switch bezel!
Being '68 I know there are 1 year only parts...I like this car for that reason altho I would like to allow myself a retraction in the near future once I get into this.
anyway...wipers finally work but a short in the switch...again ready to order part once I recieve confirmation from some of you kind folks on best supplier. Wiper door stuck in open position...could be a number of things...I have 2 female plugs dangling off the wiper motor...a 3 prong female and a 2 prong female...I seem to be missing a part on the firewall...on passenger side right next to wiper motor...square hole with 2 tapped screw holes...any ideas here? does one of those plugs belong on a limit/safety switch that is supposed to be mounted here?
If i fix the wiper switch will the wipers go to full park position allowing the door to close?
any help here is greatly appreciaited.
About the tach again...is it worthwhile to buy the 90 degree fitting to prevent future binding?
I'll have many more questions as I get into this beauty...
Thanks you all in advance for any help you can provide.
Jimmy
Finally got my '68. 327/300
Drives great but has all the '68 problems I have read about.
Been thru this site and must already thank all the great people who contribute to help others. Hopefully some day as I get more acquainted I may be able to help someone else.
Some initial questions please....
Tach:
The tach cable is badly kinked and a bit frayed at dist connection. I understand this is quite common given the engineering. I am also guessing this is why tach doesn't work! Question is where do most of you buy your replacement parts? The car is numbers matching and in a beautiful condition. ( I promise to post pictures when my 13 year old daughter returns from camp and shows me how!)
I'd like to get the correct replacement parts and will pay more for quality.
Wiper/wiper door:
Grrrr.looks like this is going to be a lot of fun!
Wow! What a great site Wilcox has for info...would like to give them the part business if their inventory and quality are half what their site is.
seems as though someone tried to "bubba"(I believe that is the term here...
) the vacuum lines, switches, overides..just about everything including drill out a new override for wipers right thru the wiper switch bezel!Being '68 I know there are 1 year only parts...I like this car for that reason altho I would like to allow myself a retraction in the near future once I get into this.
anyway...wipers finally work but a short in the switch...again ready to order part once I recieve confirmation from some of you kind folks on best supplier. Wiper door stuck in open position...could be a number of things...I have 2 female plugs dangling off the wiper motor...a 3 prong female and a 2 prong female...I seem to be missing a part on the firewall...on passenger side right next to wiper motor...square hole with 2 tapped screw holes...any ideas here? does one of those plugs belong on a limit/safety switch that is supposed to be mounted here?
If i fix the wiper switch will the wipers go to full park position allowing the door to close?
any help here is greatly appreciaited.
About the tach again...is it worthwhile to buy the 90 degree fitting to prevent future binding?
I'll have many more questions as I get into this beauty...
Thanks you all in advance for any help you can provide.
Jimmy
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,373
Likes: 6,371
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
On your tach cable:
Don't buy the 90-degree fitting - it increases the torque required to drive the cable, and will accelerate the wear on the thrust surface for the crossgear inside your distributor. This will eventually cause complete lock-up and failure of the crossgear, if it has not already happened. Instead, re-orient your distributor to relieve the cable angle as outlined in the GM Service Bulletin on this subject - I have a copy of the SB and instructions on how to do it in my "Distributor Installation" paper - you can e-mail me for a copy.
Paragon is an outstanding supplier of very good quality parts. Tell them "Lars in Denver" sent you.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Don't buy the 90-degree fitting - it increases the torque required to drive the cable, and will accelerate the wear on the thrust surface for the crossgear inside your distributor. This will eventually cause complete lock-up and failure of the crossgear, if it has not already happened. Instead, re-orient your distributor to relieve the cable angle as outlined in the GM Service Bulletin on this subject - I have a copy of the SB and instructions on how to do it in my "Distributor Installation" paper - you can e-mail me for a copy.
Paragon is an outstanding supplier of very good quality parts. Tell them "Lars in Denver" sent you.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,198
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Jimmy,
68... NICE!
As Lars mentioned Paragon is a good source for parts as are Willcox, Zip, and Dr. Rebuild.
You do need to be careful just what you buy if you're concerned with originality. Many service parts and reproduction parts may be slightly or a lot different than what's on your car. Originality may or may not matter to you.
Have Fun!
Regards,
Alan
Look at the FAQ tab for picture posting help.
68... NICE!
As Lars mentioned Paragon is a good source for parts as are Willcox, Zip, and Dr. Rebuild.
You do need to be careful just what you buy if you're concerned with originality. Many service parts and reproduction parts may be slightly or a lot different than what's on your car. Originality may or may not matter to you.
Have Fun!
Regards,
Alan
Look at the FAQ tab for picture posting help.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,094
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
Jimmy,
Welcome to the forum- you've come to the right place. As for this being your first post....they say the first time is always special. Feel free to have a smoke afterward.
So far your luck is really good here- you have 2 of the most knowledgeable guys already helping you. If Lars says Paragon is good, then it's good. I hear very good things about Wilcox too. Alan is one of the nicest, most helpful guys here and is well versed on restoration info. If you plan on doing much work on your 68 it would be wise to buy an assembly manual for it. They aren't cheap but they're well worth the cost. Good luck with the Vette. We look forward to pictures!
Welcome to the forum- you've come to the right place. As for this being your first post....they say the first time is always special. Feel free to have a smoke afterward.
So far your luck is really good here- you have 2 of the most knowledgeable guys already helping you. If Lars says Paragon is good, then it's good. I hear very good things about Wilcox too. Alan is one of the nicest, most helpful guys here and is well versed on restoration info. If you plan on doing much work on your 68 it would be wise to buy an assembly manual for it. They aren't cheap but they're well worth the cost. Good luck with the Vette. We look forward to pictures!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Welcome to the CF
There is a wealth of knowlege here and all you have to do is ask. It has helped me fix my problems better than any book or manual. Don't forget there's 30-40 years worth of bubba mechanics that have had plenty of time to do things to your ride that go beyond the limits of the ordinary mind.
When I got mine most of the bolts under the hood I could take off with my hand or very little effort with a wrench. I really didn't understand how it was running fairly good.
Enjoy your VETTE !
There is a wealth of knowlege here and all you have to do is ask. It has helped me fix my problems better than any book or manual. Don't forget there's 30-40 years worth of bubba mechanics that have had plenty of time to do things to your ride that go beyond the limits of the ordinary mind.
When I got mine most of the bolts under the hood I could take off with my hand or very little effort with a wrench. I really didn't understand how it was running fairly good.
Enjoy your VETTE !
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 19
From: Canboro Ontario
Jimmy,
Welcome to the forum- you've come to the right place. As for this being your first post....they say the first time is always special. Feel free to have a smoke afterward.
So far your luck is really good here- you have 2 of the most knowledgeable guys already helping you. If Lars says Paragon is good, then it's good. I hear very good things about Wilcox too. Alan is one of the nicest, most helpful guys here and is well versed on restoration info. If you plan on doing much work on your 68 it would be wise to buy an assembly manual for it. They aren't cheap but they're well worth the cost. Good luck with the Vette. We look forward to pictures!
Welcome to the forum- you've come to the right place. As for this being your first post....they say the first time is always special. Feel free to have a smoke afterward.
So far your luck is really good here- you have 2 of the most knowledgeable guys already helping you. If Lars says Paragon is good, then it's good. I hear very good things about Wilcox too. Alan is one of the nicest, most helpful guys here and is well versed on restoration info. If you plan on doing much work on your 68 it would be wise to buy an assembly manual for it. They aren't cheap but they're well worth the cost. Good luck with the Vette. We look forward to pictures!
the guys here can be alot of help, if you need some information. No questions are dumb questions, except for mine, once in a while.
And welcome to the forum, enjoy your 68
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
On your tach cable:
Don't buy the 90-degree fitting - it increases the torque required to drive the cable, and will accelerate the wear on the thrust surface for the crossgear inside your distributor. This will eventually cause complete lock-up and failure of the crossgear, if it has not already happened. Instead, re-orient your distributor to relieve the cable angle as outlined in the GM Service Bulletin on this subject - I have a copy of the SB and instructions on how to do it in my "Distributor Installation" paper - you can e-mail me for a copy.
Paragon is an outstanding supplier of very good quality parts. Tell them "Lars in Denver" sent you.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com
Don't buy the 90-degree fitting - it increases the torque required to drive the cable, and will accelerate the wear on the thrust surface for the crossgear inside your distributor. This will eventually cause complete lock-up and failure of the crossgear, if it has not already happened. Instead, re-orient your distributor to relieve the cable angle as outlined in the GM Service Bulletin on this subject - I have a copy of the SB and instructions on how to do it in my "Distributor Installation" paper - you can e-mail me for a copy.
Paragon is an outstanding supplier of very good quality parts. Tell them "Lars in Denver" sent you.
Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com