Top End Rebuild
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Top End Rebuild
I just finished pulling the double hump heads off my 350ci engine. There is a broken bolt hole that I considered having repaired. Every machine shop told me the same thing, they weren't worth the price of the repair unless I was trying to keep the car original. I'm not, so time for replacements. I'll probably end up with a set of Vortec heads to keep this project on a budget.
The previous owner of my car replaced the stock engine and didn't have any idea what internal components were used in the new engine when I asked him. Is there any way to determine the internal components of the engine with the oil pan and heads off the block?
I've been browsing summit and have a general plan in mind, but could use some advice on completing my selections. The purpose of this is for a cruiser. I'm not after a race car.
GM Performance Vortec Cylinder Heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (RPM or not?)
Holley 4160 Carb
Hooker Ceramic Coated Headers
Centerbolt Valve Covers
Two options I have are: an Edelbrock 1406 I have at home. I took it off the car 3 years ago and have had it sitting in a box in my garage. I assume I could change the gaskets and carry on using it. And I have a set of Headmen Headers on the car, I just want the ceramic coated headers to reduce heat.
The previous owner of my car replaced the stock engine and didn't have any idea what internal components were used in the new engine when I asked him. Is there any way to determine the internal components of the engine with the oil pan and heads off the block?
I've been browsing summit and have a general plan in mind, but could use some advice on completing my selections. The purpose of this is for a cruiser. I'm not after a race car.
GM Performance Vortec Cylinder Heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (RPM or not?)
Holley 4160 Carb
Hooker Ceramic Coated Headers
Centerbolt Valve Covers
Two options I have are: an Edelbrock 1406 I have at home. I took it off the car 3 years ago and have had it sitting in a box in my garage. I assume I could change the gaskets and carry on using it. And I have a set of Headmen Headers on the car, I just want the ceramic coated headers to reduce heat.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
I think the vortec heads are a good choice for the money. Be sure you purchase th heads that have been modified for higher valve lift. I had the heads on my 79 L-82 reworked at a machine shop. It was a waste of money as for a couple hundred more dollars I could have bought new Vortec heads. The Vortec use a center bolt valve cover. You will have a problem with a stock hood clearance on the RMP intake. I think with a dropped air cleaner base an ESP intake will work.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
Your short block You should be able to tell what kind of rods and crank, You have, the pistons You may be able to tell looking to the inside of them from underneath. You will need a good light. Forged cranks have a wide parting line, where the cast crank has a thin parting line. If the rods are factory Gm rods then the high performance ones or "pink rods" have an X on the cap, next is ones with an O on the cap. The rest are plain but he may have put ARP bolts to strengthen them. The pistons have so many variations I don't even know where to begin describing them.The cam You would have to be able to track the # on it or use a indicator and degree wheel to have an idea what it is.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
I've heard many good things about the Vortecs but here are my specs for my 79:
Dart IE 180 intake 64cc chamber heads
Edelbrock EPS intake
CC XE262 cam
Holley SA 670 carb
I have a 14" x 3" breather but use a drop base
Dart IE 180 intake 64cc chamber heads
Edelbrock EPS intake
CC XE262 cam
Holley SA 670 carb
I have a 14" x 3" breather but use a drop base
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
I plan on ordering my parts before the end of the week. I do have some questions. I've decided to get all the parts listed in my original post. But, I'm unsure of the smaller details.
Can I re-use the rockers and pushrods or do I need new ones as well?
Can I re-use the rockers and pushrods or do I need new ones as well?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If the pistons have flat tops or flat tops with some small notches cut for valve reliefs, your engine will have decent compression with vortec heads. If the pistons are 'dished' or have significant recesses in the top of the piston, those are 'low compression' pistons and will not make a lot of power with Vortecs.
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I don't know how many miles are on that engine (or since the last rebuild), but it would be best to tear it completely down since you are that far already. You have a lot of burnt oil, etc. in some of the cylinders; that may be from bad valve seals...or it may be due to blow-by on rings, which you can't assess now that the heads are off.
If you know the history on the engine and the lower end has less than 30K miles on it, with good maintenance being done, you might do just the top end. But, I think that's pretty risky under the circumstances. You should still remove the crank bearings (one at a time) to check the wear on the bearings and on the crank journals. If those look good, you might have better confidence that a top-end job alone will be OK.
If you know the history on the engine and the lower end has less than 30K miles on it, with good maintenance being done, you might do just the top end. But, I think that's pretty risky under the circumstances. You should still remove the crank bearings (one at a time) to check the wear on the bearings and on the crank journals. If those look good, you might have better confidence that a top-end job alone will be OK.