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I got the bellhousing yesterday so I thought why not today. Liek everything else that is supposed to bolt in, It didn't. First off the bracket that is welded to the side for some cars clutch linkage hit the tunnel right at the firewall. Take that off with a sawzall file it down clean up and paint. Okay put on bellhousing tighten everything down. Hmmm the clutch fork is still on the ground. First install was practice. Remove and replace. Now I'm checking to see if the left side header will clear since this is the most crowded side. 2 bolts tight looks good no probelms. Go to the left side figure this will go right on. Not quite. Have to notch the bellhousing a little. That is some strong steel in them to try to cut. Still a little to tight for me so some more minor grinding. I did not install the block shield but am going to use the bottom half for a dust shield. Cut that in half and some trimming around the mini starter and that fits. I'm still waiting for the trans parts so I can't button it all up yet. Hopefully they will come Monday or Tuesday. Hopefully the clutch will never let go but now I'm protected. I kind of like my feet the way they are. Not the most difficult thing to do but definitly not a bolt in. BTW I have Hooker Comp headers onj a small block.
Gordonm,
You need to index your scattershield to your block (crank centerline). Or it is quite possible you will continue to have "trans trouble" as they are not very precise, actually most of them are waaay off. ...redvetracr
Gordon:
Oh well that's great :(. Do you think I should start hacking the bracket off of my Lakewood now? I may not have the header problem that you have because mine are Hooker Header side mounts (for Hooker side pipes). Why did you choose not to use the complete block protector? Thanks for the heads up Gordon. :cheers:
I did index it also.
Bence, I did not want to remove the flywheel. I could now slip it in since it is in half but I'm not to worried about the block. I'm more concerned with my safety.
On the indexing you need a magnetic mount and dial indicator. this is to make sure the crank centerline is going to be right in line with the trans shaft. If the bellhousing is out it will wobble and tear up the input on the trans.
Put your indicator with mag. base on the flywheel and put the pointer on the inside hole on the bellhousing. I zero it out and rotate the flywheel. It should stay at zero all the way around if everyhting is OK. If it moves .010 you are .005 out and need to move the housing over. You can either buy offset dowel pins or a locating kit to accomplish this. They have pretty good instuctions on them.
I am using the Lakewood 15000 bellhousing. Just a standard Chevy blow shield.
Gordon out of curiousity, how did your indexing look when you checked it? Here's a hint I got here on the forum, since your tranny isn't installed yet, get some 2" long set screws and install them with some loc-tite for tranny studs. This should make installing your tranny much easier ;) .
My Lakewood bellhousing bolted right in on my 74 with no problems :confused: . I was suprised to see you had to modify it so much to get it to work.
After checking the runout I was right on. Only about .003 out. I have a set of long bolts I cut the heads off of for the tranny install. i have done this so many times now I 'm getting pretty good at this install. I knew it was going to be a tight fit. I have always had problems with the left side bolt 2nd one up. It is real tight on the 72. The headers i was surprised about.
I also wacked the bracket off. If nothing else, it's a real pain to tighten up the bolt next to it. My initial indexing showed .021 off, so I had to get alignment pins.