rear susp. pic. help needed
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
rear susp. pic. help needed
I am rebuilding the rear end (1979) I have this problem that when I was trying to install the fiberglass spring, I have a very small space between the T/A and spring. As I understand it from the instructions I am supposed to raise the spring to meet the T/A but mine are so close together that I can install the bolt that holds it in place without having to raise the spring. I was also trying to leave the nut that holds the bolt in place at the very tip of it, because for what I have found out the less threads that show the lower the car will seat, But I was not able to do that 'cause as You can see in the pic I still have to thread that nut a lot so that it starts tightening both parts. I have put in adj. strut rods and shortened them to the size of the ones that came with the car. Help please
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 3
From: Woodinville WA
The bolt looks pretty long. What size bolt are you using?
Try putting the wheel back on the car and then put it back on the ground to see what kind of clearance you have. If it is too low, get shorter bolts.
Try putting the wheel back on the car and then put it back on the ground to see what kind of clearance you have. If it is too low, get shorter bolts.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Greer SC
"because for what I have found out the less threads that show the lower the car will seat" This does not seem to be a correct statement. The closer the spring is to the trailing arm the lower the car will be. Look back at you photo. What that bolt does is pull the spring to the arm when you tighten the bolt. What you are doing is trying to straighten the spring and take out a lot of that arc. You may still need to get at least 2" shorter bolts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
The ones I am working with are 8". And I try the wheel but after I take it off the car the same thing happens.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
"because for what I have found out the less threads that show the lower the car will seat" This does not seem to be a correct statement. The closer the spring is to the trailing arm the lower the car will be. Look back at you photo. What that bolt does is pull the spring to the arm when you tighten the bolt. What you are doing is trying to straighten the spring and take out a lot of that arc. You may still need to get at least 2" shorter bolts
bolts and the car was sitting to high You could take care of this by using 10" bolts.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Thats pretty much how its suppose to be for a fiberglass spring it does not flex much, the 8 inch longer bolts are so you can lower it, if you dont want it that low simply tighten the bolt more, that is how you adjust your ride height, nothing is wrong here.
when the car is on the ground it will seat in there just fine, and if you need to raise the car tighten the bolt more, if you want to lower it, loosen it.
when the car is on the ground it will seat in there just fine, and if you need to raise the car tighten the bolt more, if you want to lower it, loosen it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
Thats pretty much how its suppose to be for a fiberglass spring it does not flex much, the 8 inch longer bolts are so you can lower it, if you dont want it that low simply tighten the bolt more, that is how you adjust your ride height, nothing is wrong here.
when the car is on the ground it will seat in there just fine, and if you need to raise the car tighten the bolt more, if you want to lower it, loosen it.
when the car is on the ground it will seat in there just fine, and if you need to raise the car tighten the bolt more, if you want to lower it, loosen it.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
no this is a wrong statment, the closer you pull the trailing arm to the spring the HIGHER the car will sit, its when you LOOSEN the balt and the traling arm goes up away from the spring that the car lowers.
This is perfectly normal when the vehicle is not under its on weight weight a fiberglass spring. what will happen when the trailing arm is set down onto the grond the car will settle down on top of it pulling it up back into the fender well, and as this happens it will go till the point that the spring compresses and depending on how far the bolt is tightened or loosened is how it will sit.
This is perfectly normal when the vehicle is not under its on weight weight a fiberglass spring. what will happen when the trailing arm is set down onto the grond the car will settle down on top of it pulling it up back into the fender well, and as this happens it will go till the point that the spring compresses and depending on how far the bolt is tightened or loosened is how it will sit.
"because for what I have found out the less threads that show the lower the car will seat" This does not seem to be a correct statement. The closer the spring is to the trailing arm the lower the car will be. Look back at you photo. What that bolt does is pull the spring to the arm when you tighten the bolt. What you are doing is trying to straighten the spring and take out a lot of that arc. You may still need to get at least 2" shorter bolts
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Mine is the same way, These springs are not under compression when the vehicle is suspended, that is a unique feature with them, you can take the suspension apart without worrying about the spring being compressed.
The pictures were probably of cars with six inch bolts (stock) and they probably had them tightend up not knowing that it probably jacked the car up 3 inches or so until they dropped it on the ground.
Trust me set up the other side the same way, leave yourself about a inch 3/4 of bolt on each side (use a tape measure on the amount of bolt you have extra to make sure the ride height is the same on both sides, and then drop the car down on the ground, drive it forward and backward about 20 feet to let it settle and see where the height is. and if you look everything will be seated and sitting just fine. then if you dont like the height LOOSEN the bolt to drop the car, TIGHTEN it to raise it
The pictures were probably of cars with six inch bolts (stock) and they probably had them tightend up not knowing that it probably jacked the car up 3 inches or so until they dropped it on the ground.
Trust me set up the other side the same way, leave yourself about a inch 3/4 of bolt on each side (use a tape measure on the amount of bolt you have extra to make sure the ride height is the same on both sides, and then drop the car down on the ground, drive it forward and backward about 20 feet to let it settle and see where the height is. and if you look everything will be seated and sitting just fine. then if you dont like the height LOOSEN the bolt to drop the car, TIGHTEN it to raise it
I was under the impresion that there had to be tension here just as in the old 9 leaf. Right now there is a lot of play, I have seen some pics where the bolts that hold the spring are tight and straight and I was trying to get that in mine and I just can't. The pics I have seen are of cars on jacks.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
Mine is the same way, These springs are not under compression when the vehicle is suspended, that is a unique feature with them, you can take the suspension apart without worrying about the spring being compressed.
The pictures were probably of cars with six inch bolts (stock) and they probably had them tightend up not knowing that it probably jacked the car up 3 inches or so until they dropped it on the ground.
Trust me set up the other side the same way, leave yourself about a inch 3/4 of bolt on each side (use a tape measure on the amount of bolt you have extra to make sure the ride height is the same on both sides, and then drop the car down on the ground, drive it forward and backward about 20 feet to let it settle and see where the height is. and if you look everything will be seated and sitting just fine. then if you dont like the height LOOSEN the bolt to drop the car, TIGHTEN it to raise it
The pictures were probably of cars with six inch bolts (stock) and they probably had them tightend up not knowing that it probably jacked the car up 3 inches or so until they dropped it on the ground.
Trust me set up the other side the same way, leave yourself about a inch 3/4 of bolt on each side (use a tape measure on the amount of bolt you have extra to make sure the ride height is the same on both sides, and then drop the car down on the ground, drive it forward and backward about 20 feet to let it settle and see where the height is. and if you look everything will be seated and sitting just fine. then if you dont like the height LOOSEN the bolt to drop the car, TIGHTEN it to raise it
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
Are you talking about the space you see between the bolt rising up inside the T/A?
Not sure if you have done this but you need to remove tension from the spring with a jack and a piece of wood as to not damage the spring. Align your spring bolt and torque the nut up a few inches. Then put the car back on the ground. You will need to roll the car back n forth about 20 ft to settle the IRS. Then make your height adjustments with the spring bolt. It will all fall into place once car is back on the ground.
Not sure if you have done this but you need to remove tension from the spring with a jack and a piece of wood as to not damage the spring. Align your spring bolt and torque the nut up a few inches. Then put the car back on the ground. You will need to roll the car back n forth about 20 ft to settle the IRS. Then make your height adjustments with the spring bolt. It will all fall into place once car is back on the ground.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
Are you talking about the space you see between the bolt rising up inside the T/A?
Not sure if you have done this but you need to remove tension from the spring with a jack and a piece of wood as to not damage the spring. Align your spring bolt and torque the nut up a few inches. Then put the car back on the ground. You will need to roll the car back n forth about 20 ft to settle the IRS. Then make your height adjustments with the spring bolt. It will all fall into place once car is back on the ground.
Not sure if you have done this but you need to remove tension from the spring with a jack and a piece of wood as to not damage the spring. Align your spring bolt and torque the nut up a few inches. Then put the car back on the ground. You will need to roll the car back n forth about 20 ft to settle the IRS. Then make your height adjustments with the spring bolt. It will all fall into place once car is back on the ground.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Lakefield Ontario
I've just finished installing rebuilt trailing arms and a VPB glass spring on my 69 vert. I did not have to jack up the spring to install the spring bolts as well, just spin the nut on about 3/4" of an inch until you get the car on the ground, and set your height after the suspension settles.
Before doing anything, make sure you have clearance between your tires and fender lip when the car is off the jack stands!
When using the adjustable strut rods, set the cam bolts to the flatess setting, the idea is to get the half shafts as level as possible, before setting up the rear end alignment.
The only item of notice in your pictures is the adjustment of your strut rods, they are adjusted to far in.
I'll try and post some pictures next day of my car, so far it looks like your're doing a great job!
I've enjoyed working on my cars suspension system, you can really see the progress and take the satisfaction that its going to better than it was when it was new!
Before doing anything, make sure you have clearance between your tires and fender lip when the car is off the jack stands!
When using the adjustable strut rods, set the cam bolts to the flatess setting, the idea is to get the half shafts as level as possible, before setting up the rear end alignment.
The only item of notice in your pictures is the adjustment of your strut rods, they are adjusted to far in.
I'll try and post some pictures next day of my car, so far it looks like your're doing a great job!
I've enjoyed working on my cars suspension system, you can really see the progress and take the satisfaction that its going to better than it was when it was new!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
I've just finished installing rebuilt trailing arms and a VPB glass spring on my 69 vert. I did not have to jack up the spring to install the spring bolts as well, just spin the nut on about 3/4" of an inch until you get the car on the ground, and set your height after the suspension settles.
Before doing anything, make sure you have clearance between your tires and fender lip when the car is off the jack stands!
When using the adjustable strut rods, set the cam bolts to the flatess setting, the idea is to get the half shafts as level as possible, before setting up the rear end alignment.
The only item of notice in your pictures is the adjustment of your strut rods, they are adjusted to far in.
I'll try and post some pictures next day of my car, so far it looks like your're doing a great job!
I've enjoyed working on my cars suspension system, you can really see the progress and take the satisfaction that its going to better than it was when it was new!
Before doing anything, make sure you have clearance between your tires and fender lip when the car is off the jack stands!
When using the adjustable strut rods, set the cam bolts to the flatess setting, the idea is to get the half shafts as level as possible, before setting up the rear end alignment.
The only item of notice in your pictures is the adjustment of your strut rods, they are adjusted to far in.
I'll try and post some pictures next day of my car, so far it looks like your're doing a great job!
I've enjoyed working on my cars suspension system, you can really see the progress and take the satisfaction that its going to better than it was when it was new!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 3
From: Woodinville WA
You didn't happen to leave out the spacer that goes between the spring and the differential cover, did you? I have a TRW spring on one of mine and the spacer moves the spring down about 1" from the bottom of the diff cover - that would take up another 1" of the bolt.
This is the only photo I have handy that shows the spacer
You can see the slack on the bolts prior to setting the car down
Your bolts have a lot of thread on them, so once you get the height set right I'd cut them off to leave about 1/2" exposed beyond the nut if they are still long.
This is the only photo I have handy that shows the spacer
You can see the slack on the bolts prior to setting the car down
Your bolts have a lot of thread on them, so once you get the height set right I'd cut them off to leave about 1/2" exposed beyond the nut if they are still long.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 11
From: LA CA
[QUOTE=Frogday;1574784382]You didn't happen to leave out the spacer that goes between the spring and the differential cover, did you? I have a TRW spring on one of mine and the spacer moves the spring down about 1" from the bottom of the diff cover - that would take up another 1" of the bolt.
This is the only photo I have handy that shows the spacer
You can see the slack on the bolts prior to setting the car down
Your bolts have a lot of thread on them, so once you get the height set right I'd cut them off to leave about 1/2" exposed beyond the nut if they are still long.
I took the steel spring out and went with fiberglass and the old one did not have a spacer and the new one did not come with one. The instructions and diagrams for the install do not show or says anything about the vbp leaf needing a spacer. Thank You ....
This is the only photo I have handy that shows the spacer
You can see the slack on the bolts prior to setting the car down
Your bolts have a lot of thread on them, so once you get the height set right I'd cut them off to leave about 1/2" exposed beyond the nut if they are still long.
I took the steel spring out and went with fiberglass and the old one did not have a spacer and the new one did not come with one. The instructions and diagrams for the install do not show or says anything about the vbp leaf needing a spacer. Thank You ....