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How Do You Replace A Freeze Out Plug?

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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 05:51 AM
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Default How Do You Replace A Freeze Out Plug?

When I dropped my starter today, to replace my solenoid (which made a world of difference) I noticed that the freeze out plug behind the starter was rusted and dripping anti-freeze.
What is my best way to remove and install a new freeze out plug?
I might just change them all, since I remember having to drain the anti freeeze, when I did it years ago on a 283 Chevy block. I don't remember the procedure.

Thanks
Jack
77 C3 L-82
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:10 AM
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What I do is I get a drift, or an old socket extension, and drive one side of the freeze plug in at either 3 or 9 oclock, pick the other side of the leak point, when the freeze plug tips, get some channel lock pliers, grip the edge sticking out, and using the block hole edge as a pivot point, pull the freeze plug out. What you need to avoid when drifting the plug in, is the inner casting bore wall, some of the plugs end up fairly close to that so use that to pick which side you drift inward. Unfortunately, you won't be able to remove the 2 plugs at the rear of the block, but if lucks on your side, you may get away with it. From my experience, you should only regard this replacement as temporary only, if one has corroded, the others won't be far off doing the same, so plan on an engine or trans removal soon.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:40 AM
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I agree with thmprr - if one is bad most likely you will have another. Go ahead and change them all while you are in there.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 08:11 AM
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In the past when the above did not work well I dilled a hole in a solid area, screwed in a lag bolt and used a puller. They can sometimes be a PITA!!!
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 08:24 AM
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I did three just like thmprr said. One fell in the block, but I didn't let it too far away. If I remember, I used my ext. magnet to keep it near the hole and grabbed it with channel locks and pulled like a b$%&# til it came out. Putting them in is no fun either. I didn't use sealer on the first one and it leaked, so had to start all over. Good luck and take an extra shot of patients before you start.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JimT
I agree with thmprr - if one is bad most likely you will have another. Go ahead and change them all while you are in there.

Don't forget there are 2 more under the flywheel and brass is a good choice.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Well, you do the ones you can get to and don't worry about the others until they start leaking, too. Another way to remove the plugs is to take a large flat-blade screwdriver and drive the blade into [and through] the plug near one edge. Then, just push the handle down to leverage the plug out of its bore. That way, the plug never can fall into the block.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Well, you do the ones you can get to and don't worry about the others until they start leaking, too. Another way to remove the plugs is to take a large flat-blade screwdriver and drive the blade into [and through] the plug near one edge. Then, just push the handle down to leverage the plug out of its bore. That way, the plug never can fall into the block.
This is how I remember.
What's the best way to put them in?

Thanks
Jack
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by xkeots
This is how I remember.
What's the best way to put them in?

Thanks
Jack
I take a socket of just smaller then the plug, tap on it square up, and watch carefully it seats plumb/square....offset the hammer blows to keep it even.....

I use RTV for sealant, and let cure over night....

never had a problem....and yes, brass plugs....

all the rest about removal worked for me, too....

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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 12:27 AM
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If there is only one leaking slightly, can I wire brush it and use a JB Weld type of cure?
If it works I save a lot of time.
Has anyone tried this. Everyone swears by JB Weld. I never used it.

Thanks
Jack
1977 C3
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Well, you do the ones you can get to and don't worry about the others until they start leaking, too. Another way to remove the plugs is to take a large flat-blade screwdriver and drive the blade into [and through] the plug near one edge. Then, just push the handle down to leverage the plug out of its bore. That way, the plug never can fall into the block.
The above will work! Just change the 1 that's leaking.
Originally Posted by xkeots
If there is only one leaking slightly, can I wire brush it and use a JB Weld type of cure?
If it works I save a lot of time.
Has anyone tried this. Everyone swears by JB Weld. I never used it.
That won't work.
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 01:07 AM
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These work well and are super easy to install. should be at a NAPA

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-533-02480.aspx
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