Interior resto in progress...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Interior resto in progress...
...getting the inside ready to coat with POR 15. New single retractor belts going in place of the old timey ones. Seat rails and belt guides going to the powder blaster/coater tomorrow. Several of my seat bolt holes have been drilled out with a 3/8" bit and bolts used instead. I thought a 11mm X 1.50 tap would be perfect to tap out the larger holes and simply use the metric bolts (heresy!). However - nobody sells 11mm bolts - nobody!!!! It's an odd size. I'll keep looking. I thought about getting new seat mount bosses from Corvette America. Anybody have experience with installing new bosses???
Note that my new rubber primary shift boot is in place. (old h/w tho!?!?!) I applied some clear RTV on the mount face before installing.
Note that my new rubber primary shift boot is in place. (old h/w tho!?!?!) I applied some clear RTV on the mount face before installing.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
Are you coating the floor with POR-15?
The floor in your picture looks like it is fibreglass. If that is the case, the POR rust prevention qualities seem wasted.
At $50 per quart, you may find better uses for it.
As for the seat bolts, switching from metric to imperial may help.
Since you are this far, this is a perfect time to install some sound deadender & insulation.
The floor in your picture looks like it is fibreglass. If that is the case, the POR rust prevention qualities seem wasted.
At $50 per quart, you may find better uses for it.
As for the seat bolts, switching from metric to imperial may help.
Since you are this far, this is a perfect time to install some sound deadender & insulation.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Good comment on the sound deadener: I will be installing the Mad Mat insulation kit that is offered here by one of our Sponsors. Will post Pix when that phase is complete. Yes - the floor pan is primarily 'glass, however if you look close you'll note that here is lots of metal also. I choose POR 15 in this case primarily for the evenness of color' over the ugly pan - beautification if you will. BTW: Why would you pay 50 bucks for a quart of POR-15 - I get a quart for 39 bucks delivered directly to my front door.
I'll post a pix of the POR application as well. Not sure what you mean by 'switch from metric to 'Imperial'. The Metric 11mm is the next fraction larger than the SAE 3/8" hole that the goofball before me drilled. I don't want a much bigger hole in the floor than already there. My other option is to have new seat mounts installed. Can you comment on new seat mounts please???BTW: maybe an 'insert' for the seat mount holes??? Not much meat for the insert to grab though. I have some other ideas, but the 'juice might not be worth the squeeze' to shamelessly quote one of our Forum members
Are you coating the floor with POR-15?
The floor in your picture looks like it is fibreglass. If that is the case, the POR rust prevention qualities seem wasted.
At $50 per quart, you may find better uses for it.
As for the seat bolts, switching from metric to imperial may help.
Since you are this far, this is a perfect time to install some sound deadender & insulation.
The floor in your picture looks like it is fibreglass. If that is the case, the POR rust prevention qualities seem wasted.
At $50 per quart, you may find better uses for it.
As for the seat bolts, switching from metric to imperial may help.
Since you are this far, this is a perfect time to install some sound deadender & insulation.
Last edited by mar; Aug 24, 2010 at 07:17 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
Yep your floor is fiberglass. POR 15 is used as a rust inhibitor. I guess having a black or silver floorpan is okay; besides no one will see it anyway. Seems like a waste of money since your floor is fiberglass.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 0
From: Murfreesboro TN.
Thank you for your order!
Call us if you have any questions about the insulation install and let us know how it goes.
Tim
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Tim - Will do
Bummer on my seat rails: - the powder coater would not do my seat rails - said there was too much grease in them and if there are any plastic bearing cages, they will melt in the oven. I didn't know enough about the rails to argue
Alternatively - I plan to use Permatex Rust Killer to get rid of all the rust. (That product worked very will on the interior rust issues) Then take them to the local machine shop 'hot dip' facility to overnight soak them to remove all traces of grease and crud. I will them prime and paint them.
Bummer on my seat rails: - the powder coater would not do my seat rails - said there was too much grease in them and if there are any plastic bearing cages, they will melt in the oven. I didn't know enough about the rails to argue
Alternatively - I plan to use Permatex Rust Killer to get rid of all the rust. (That product worked very will on the interior rust issues) Then take them to the local machine shop 'hot dip' facility to overnight soak them to remove all traces of grease and crud. I will them prime and paint them.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
I may just have to go with 7/16" SAE and I thought about it, but resisted because I wanted to keep the size down. Yes - grade 8 is a must in this case!
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
WHat I would do is drill out the aluminum rivets and replace both the seat attach braces and the seat belt anchors. by oversizing the belt mount holes you are removing material from the weldnut that is on the brace. Rivets are easy to buck and new mounting hardware is a lot less costly than a trip to the infirmary.
Also the orig rivets can also be removed by just chiseling off the big head you see exposed.
Another note bead blasting the seat tracks is not a good idea it seems you never get all the media out of the track = gritty seat movement, cleaning and painting is a much better idea
PS from the pics you got a lot of scraping to do
Also the orig rivets can also be removed by just chiseling off the big head you see exposed.
Another note bead blasting the seat tracks is not a good idea it seems you never get all the media out of the track = gritty seat movement, cleaning and painting is a much better idea
PS from the pics you got a lot of scraping to do
Last edited by AzMotorhead; Aug 25, 2010 at 11:52 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 33
From: Lokeren, Belgium
M11 is very uncommon in the metric range as are M7, M13, M17 etc. But they are used, even in some GM 4litre engines.
Most common dimensions are M3,4,6,8,10,12,14,16 etc. Even 'over here' it's difficult to get them.
Nick
Most common dimensions are M3,4,6,8,10,12,14,16 etc. Even 'over here' it's difficult to get them.
Nick
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
How would I re-rivet the fixtures??? Looks like a bigger job than my pop-rivet gun could handle
Corvette America has the new mounts.
Scraping?
Corvette America has the new mounts.
Scraping?
WHat I would do is drill out the aluminum rivets and replace both the seat attach braces and the seat belt anchors. by oversizing the belt mount holes you are removing material from the weldnut that is on the brace. Rivets are easy to buck and new mounting hardware is a lot less costly than a trip to the infirmary.
Also the orig rivets can also be removed by just chiseling off the big head you see exposed.
Another note bead blasting the seat tracks is not a good idea it seems you never get all the media out of the track = gritty seat movement, cleaning and painting is a much better idea
PS from the pics you got a lot of scraping to do
Also the orig rivets can also be removed by just chiseling off the big head you see exposed.
Another note bead blasting the seat tracks is not a good idea it seems you never get all the media out of the track = gritty seat movement, cleaning and painting is a much better idea
PS from the pics you got a lot of scraping to do
Last edited by mar; Aug 26, 2010 at 06:48 AM.
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
Riveting the new braces in place is done with a bucking bar and rivet gun. Or a hammer and dolly could be used.
Looks like a lot of old original sound deadener (Sprayed on stuff)is still on the pans. Thats what I was reffering to scraping off
Looks like a lot of old original sound deadener (Sprayed on stuff)is still on the pans. Thats what I was reffering to scraping off
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Be careful on the "re-riveting" of the seat belt reinforcement panel. Rivets get their strength from the complete filling of the hole with the rivet material as it is deformed. If you just pound the head flat...but don't get the hole filled with rivet material (as it is squeezed under high pressure), then the retention of that plate will be very weak--only the strength of the rivet heads. Unless you have proper riveting equipment, you would do better to replace the rivets with larger, Grade 8 bolt sets.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Makes sense! The rivets are about 3/16" dia. - I saw a bunch at Yogi-Bairs at Carlisle. Replacing them with bolts would be easier and no loss in strength. I am however looking at tapping the drilled out seat bolt holes with a 7/16 tap though. Appears to be plenty of metal to do so. I should have the interior done with Gray POR-15 today.
Be careful on the "re-riveting" of the seat belt reinforcement panel. Rivets get their strength from the complete filling of the hole with the rivet material as it is deformed. If you just pound the head flat...but don't get the hole filled with rivet material (as it is squeezed under high pressure), then the retention of that plate will be very weak--only the strength of the rivet heads. Unless you have proper riveting equipment, you would do better to replace the rivets with larger, Grade 8 bolt sets.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Got the POR-15 done today...
Now I can see any imperfection in the interior surface. Re-tapped the bored out seat mount holes with a 7/16-ths tap. Worked well -plenty of metal to work with - did not feel that safety or security would be compromised.
Also chased all holes associated with the manifold replacement and every threaded hole in the car right now. Removed the drivers side AIR exhaust manifold and that side of the exhaust system. Taking the used Edelbrock Performer manifold and my used non-AIR Rams horns + a few odds & ends: seat rails, etc. in to be media blasted tomorrow. Will lightly clamp up the exhaust system then drive it to a shop for final clamp up later.
Also changed out the four plug wires on the drivers side with MagnaCore wires and changed those plugs with A/C Delc 'Platinum' plugs - they were only $1.00 more @
Also fixed all holes associated with the door sills for the new sills!
Replaced the long hose that runs from the carb to vapor cannister - what a pain!
Got a new set of Allen's Stainless under-car side type exhaust for it while at Carlisle Friday.
Will post more photos later.
Also chased all holes associated with the manifold replacement and every threaded hole in the car right now. Removed the drivers side AIR exhaust manifold and that side of the exhaust system. Taking the used Edelbrock Performer manifold and my used non-AIR Rams horns + a few odds & ends: seat rails, etc. in to be media blasted tomorrow. Will lightly clamp up the exhaust system then drive it to a shop for final clamp up later.
Also changed out the four plug wires on the drivers side with MagnaCore wires and changed those plugs with A/C Delc 'Platinum' plugs - they were only $1.00 more @
Also fixed all holes associated with the door sills for the new sills!
Replaced the long hose that runs from the carb to vapor cannister - what a pain!
Got a new set of Allen's Stainless under-car side type exhaust for it while at Carlisle Friday.
Will post more photos later.
Last edited by mar; Aug 29, 2010 at 08:37 PM.