removing key switch
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: baton rouge louisiana
removing key switch
I`m tring to remove the key swich as the car didnt come with keys. Theres a snap ring thats giving me fits, I`m tempted to hit it with a small chisel! any help will be appreciated its the snap ring thats behind the wheel and the next plate, its hooded by the plate that locks the steering so its quite difficult to get at. Does it need to come off? I can see what I think is the hole I need to access to get the switch out. Maybe I`m wrong.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S.E. MI
St. Jude Donor '15
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From: baton rouge louisiana
There is some info here.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4
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From: baton rouge louisiana
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From: baton rouge louisiana
On 1969-75 models loosen the three cover screws and lift the cover off the shaft. On 1976-79 models pry the lock plate cover off with a suitable prytool.
Position the special lockplate compressing tool (J-23131 1969-70 or J-23653 1971-79) on the end of the steering shaft and compress the lockplate by turning the shaft nut clockwise. Pry the wire snapring out of the shaft groove.
Remove the tool and lift the lockplate off the shaft.
Slip the canceling cam, upper bearing pre-load spring, and thrust washer off the shaft.
Remove the turn signal lever. Push the flasher **** in and unscrew it.
Pull the switch connector out of the mast jacket and tape the upper part to facilitate switch removal. On tilt wheels, place the turn signal and shifter housing in Low position and remove the harness cover.
Remove the three switch mounting screws. Remove the switch by pulling it straight up while guiding the wiring harness cover through the column.
Found this, now I need to find the tool it talks about
Position the special lockplate compressing tool (J-23131 1969-70 or J-23653 1971-79) on the end of the steering shaft and compress the lockplate by turning the shaft nut clockwise. Pry the wire snapring out of the shaft groove.
Remove the tool and lift the lockplate off the shaft.
Slip the canceling cam, upper bearing pre-load spring, and thrust washer off the shaft.
Remove the turn signal lever. Push the flasher **** in and unscrew it.
Pull the switch connector out of the mast jacket and tape the upper part to facilitate switch removal. On tilt wheels, place the turn signal and shifter housing in Low position and remove the harness cover.
Remove the three switch mounting screws. Remove the switch by pulling it straight up while guiding the wiring harness cover through the column.
Found this, now I need to find the tool it talks about
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Irving Texas
This is my 1976 T/T column....which is different than most columns. But is this the snap ring you're mentioning?
My advice, dont break any pieces.......all the parts are expensive to replace.
What year is your column?
My advice, dont break any pieces.......all the parts are expensive to replace.
What year is your column?
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From: baton rouge louisiana
Mines a 71, yours looks nothing like mine. I figured out that the steering lock plate is spring loaded and one of the tools mentioned above loads that spring for access to the snap ring thats giving me fits. Just like most jobs, it`ll be easy once I have the right tools!!
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From: baton rouge louisiana
Dang! Found it! Thanks for the help guys
http://www.harborfreight.com/steerin...set-42031.html
Gotta have one of these, Im needing that U shaped thing in the kit
http://www.harborfreight.com/steerin...set-42031.html
Gotta have one of these, Im needing that U shaped thing in the kit
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Washington
ignition switch key rear/door lock key
Don't know if this will work for you but it did for me on my '69.
I removed the door lock from the door, took it to a locksmith and he made the key from that lock.
I removed the door lock from the door, took it to a locksmith and he made the key from that lock.
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From: baton rouge louisiana
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Irving Texas
I LOVE Harbor Freight! Not for their quality but for their price on something you'll use once or twice.
Or, Autozone has their free tool loaner program. You pay $20 to borrow their tool and get it back when you return it.
Or, Autozone has their free tool loaner program. You pay $20 to borrow their tool and get it back when you return it.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Washington
It is on my '69. I also had to replace the key to the "glove" compartment behind the seat but that was no trick at all to get that lock out. For the spare tire tub I removed that lock also and took it to the locksmith. All three keys were different.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
Doors and ignition are the same on 71's. That's the best way to solve your problem. And, you don't have to buy any special tools...you just have to buy Band-Aids for the hand and finger cuts from work in the door! 
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Washington
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that. It is a tight fit getting your arm into the guts of the door and up to the lock. But it can be done. Getting the spring keeper back on the door lock was kind of tricky but I finally got it.
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From: baton rouge louisiana
I had already started taking the column apart so I kept at it. I cant seem to get depressing the lock tap to work for me. Any tips? should I push on the right side or the left? right feels like pushing against something solid, left feels like Im not getting deep enough. I`m using a small blade on a pocket knife to push with. Do I need something longer?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Lowell MA
On Virgin columns of your era of GM products, the ignition retainer is hidden below a thin casting (Membrane) located in a small valley of the column close to the end of the ignition. I use a thin, 6" screwdriver with a hammer to punch through that thin casting and then you can depress the spring loaded black retainer with the same tool and pull the ignition out.
Original Ignitions will have a code stamped on the housing and any decent locksmith can generate a key.
I know for I am a locksmith.
Lemans
Original Ignitions will have a code stamped on the housing and any decent locksmith can generate a key.
I know for I am a locksmith.
Lemans
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From: baton rouge louisiana
LeMans, thanks, I`ve punched out the membrane and I`ve pushed all around in there but I dont feel anything that is spring loaded. I`d like to see a new switch so I could see what I`m supposed to be pushing. I`ve pulled the chrome outside piece off the key switch using a lady finger to pry. Now I`ve screwed a sheet metal screw in it to have something to pull it out with....so far nothing but frustration
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From: baton rouge louisiana
There is a hole above the one I punched out that has a plastic piece that mves in and out, I pushed it in and I`m wondering if thats got anything to do with it. It feels like it doesnt want to come back out so I`m scared to pull on it to hard.
