View Poll Results: Should I buy a new distributor OR rebuild the old distributor?
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Distributor ... Keep or New?
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Distributor ... Keep or New?
Hello, I have a 1968 327 that I am working on...The numbers do not match as far as I know...The intake manifold was not ever from a corvette but had a 1968 date on it. So do you guys think I should clean up my old distributor(I think its original) or buy a new one? What are the reasons as well? Would I get better performance from a new one? Do they sell kits to rebuild the old one? I see I can buy new adjustable vacuum advance kits as well as caps...Any help you could give would be appreciated!
Thank you
Thank you
Last edited by capth4u; Sep 1, 2010 at 10:04 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
It would be helpfull if You at least put the Year of Your car so We would have an idea of type of distributor.
Im going to guess that You have an HEI with vacum advance, if thats the case I would just use it. If You have removed the smog stuff assuming the car is 75 or newer You may have to recurve distributor. There are lots of threads on this Forum about distributors and timing.
Im going to guess that You have an HEI with vacum advance, if thats the case I would just use it. If You have removed the smog stuff assuming the car is 75 or newer You may have to recurve distributor. There are lots of threads on this Forum about distributors and timing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
It would be helpfull if You at least put the Year of Your car so We would have an idea of type of distributor. Im going to guess that You have an HEI with vacum advance, if thats the case I would just use it. If You have removed the smog stuff assuming the car is 75 or newer You may have to recurve distributor. There are lots of threads on this Forum about distributors and timing.
Im going to guess that You have an HEI with vacum advance, if thats the case I would just use it. If You have removed the smog stuff assuming the car is 75 or newer You may have to recurve distributor. There are lots of threads on this Forum about distributors and timing.
Also is the car numbers matching or not or do you care about numbers matching?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
I will glom on to this thread: my car: 95K miles (maybe a lot more) 74', 4-spd, 3:70 gears, 10.25:1 pistons, RV cam, new rings & valve springs, Eddy Performer intake (restrictor element in the gaskets - still have full manifold heating); stock Q-jet from a 75' I think; Allens Stainless Steel chambered exhaust, stock non-AIR Rams Horns.
My stock distributor is currently set up to take full manifold vacum.
While changing my intake I noticed that the distributor shaft is hard to turn even taking into account the friction that occurs between the points bearing surface and the bronze cylinder firing nodules. As if the bearings are starting to freeze up or seize.
I ordered a reman from NAPA for 59 bucks and will look at it this evening to see how it turns in relation to mine. Core charge is 11 bucks, but I plan to keep mine and maybe rebuild it later to retain originality.
Am I doing the right thing???
I notice that Paragon and others charge 350 bucks on up for a distributor. Maybe theirs have correct casting and assembly dates for NCRS???
My stock distributor is currently set up to take full manifold vacum.
While changing my intake I noticed that the distributor shaft is hard to turn even taking into account the friction that occurs between the points bearing surface and the bronze cylinder firing nodules. As if the bearings are starting to freeze up or seize.
I ordered a reman from NAPA for 59 bucks and will look at it this evening to see how it turns in relation to mine. Core charge is 11 bucks, but I plan to keep mine and maybe rebuild it later to retain originality.
Am I doing the right thing???
I notice that Paragon and others charge 350 bucks on up for a distributor. Maybe theirs have correct casting and assembly dates for NCRS???
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
I agree you should always state what you're working on ... but ... for this ... it don't matter to me what year ... no matter if OE tach drive points or OE hei.
I vote rebuild OE distributor ... no matter if OE tach drive points or OE hei.
Some of the replacement ignition systems (including add-on "points eliminators") can leave you dead without a chance of repair for several days as virtually no spare parts available locally.
Points rarely fail entirely; hei nearly as robust & its parts widely available.
And, only race cars NEED race ignitions.
I vote rebuild OE distributor ... no matter if OE tach drive points or OE hei.
Some of the replacement ignition systems (including add-on "points eliminators") can leave you dead without a chance of repair for several days as virtually no spare parts available locally.
Points rarely fail entirely; hei nearly as robust & its parts widely available.
And, only race cars NEED race ignitions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Your 74 should have an OE points dist with mechanical tach drive.
Nothing's impossible, but I doubt napa or anywhere else offers a rebuilt tach-drive dist for under $100 outright. I suggest they're mistakenly quoting you an HEI (it will NOT have mech tach-drive provision). Also, many replacement rebuilt hei at local parts store supplied without coil $ unique to hei.
Rebuild yours or have it rebuilt. But first, pull it out & clean it up ... maybe simple & not require overhaul.
Again, only race cars NEED race ignitions.
Nothing's impossible, but I doubt napa or anywhere else offers a rebuilt tach-drive dist for under $100 outright. I suggest they're mistakenly quoting you an HEI (it will NOT have mech tach-drive provision). Also, many replacement rebuilt hei at local parts store supplied without coil $ unique to hei.
Rebuild yours or have it rebuilt. But first, pull it out & clean it up ... maybe simple & not require overhaul.
Again, only race cars NEED race ignitions.
I will glom on to this thread: my car: 95K miles (maybe a lot more) 74', 4-spd, 3:70 gears, 10.25:1 pistons, RV cam, new rings & valve springs, Eddy Performer intake (restrictor element in the gaskets - still have full manifold heating); stock Q-jet from a 75' I think; Allens Stainless Steel chambered exhaust, stock non-AIR Rams Horns.
My stock distributor is currently set up to take full manifold vacum.
While changing my intake I noticed that the distributor shaft is hard to turn even taking into account the friction that occurs between the points bearing surface and the bronze cylinder firing nodules. As if the bearings are starting to freeze up or seize.
I ordered a reman from NAPA for 59 bucks and will look at it this evening to see how it turns in relation to mine. Core charge is 11 bucks, but I plan to keep mine and maybe rebuild it later to retain originality.
Am I doing the right thing??? I notice that Paragon and others charge 350 bucks on up for a distributor. Maybe theirs have correct casting and assembly dates for NCRS???
My stock distributor is currently set up to take full manifold vacum.
While changing my intake I noticed that the distributor shaft is hard to turn even taking into account the friction that occurs between the points bearing surface and the bronze cylinder firing nodules. As if the bearings are starting to freeze up or seize.
I ordered a reman from NAPA for 59 bucks and will look at it this evening to see how it turns in relation to mine. Core charge is 11 bucks, but I plan to keep mine and maybe rebuild it later to retain originality.
Am I doing the right thing???
I notice that Paragon and others charge 350 bucks on up for a distributor. Maybe theirs have correct casting and assembly dates for NCRS???
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
It would be helpfull if You at least put the Year of Your car so We would have an idea of type of distributor. Im going to guess that You have an HEI with vacum advance, if thats the case I would just use it. If You have removed the smog stuff assuming the car is 75 or newer You may have to recurve distributor. There are lots of threads on this Forum about distributors and timing.
Im going to guess that You have an HEI with vacum advance, if thats the case I would just use it. If You have removed the smog stuff assuming the car is 75 or newer You may have to recurve distributor. There are lots of threads on this Forum about distributors and timing.
I have a 1968 w/327 that I am working on...The numbers do not match as far as I know...The intake manifold was not ever from a corvette but had a 1968 date on it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
The NAPA rep sepcifically asked if I had HEI or not. Of course I do not. Maybe their distributor is Chinese - but why would they want my core for $11.00??? I will take mine in to NAPA when I look at they have. Mabye theres an obvious quality difference or something else. 59 bucks is awfully cheap.
Your 74 should have an OE points dist with mechanical tach drive.
Nothing's impossible, but I doubt napa or anywhere else offers a rebuilt tach-drive dist for under $100 outright. I suggest they're mistakenly quoting you an HEI (it will NOT have mech tach-drive provision). Also, many replacement rebuilt hei at local parts store supplied without coil $ unique to hei.
Rebuild yours or have it rebuilt. But first, pull it out & clean it up ... maybe simple & not require overhaul.
Again, only race cars NEED race ignitions.
Nothing's impossible, but I doubt napa or anywhere else offers a rebuilt tach-drive dist for under $100 outright. I suggest they're mistakenly quoting you an HEI (it will NOT have mech tach-drive provision). Also, many replacement rebuilt hei at local parts store supplied without coil $ unique to hei.
Rebuild yours or have it rebuilt. But first, pull it out & clean it up ... maybe simple & not require overhaul.
Again, only race cars NEED race ignitions.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
The NAPA rep sepcifically asked if I had HEI or not. Of course I do not. Maybe their distributor is Chinese - but why would they want my core for $11.00??? I will take mine in to NAPA when I look at they have. Mabye theres an obvious quality difference or something else. 59 bucks is awfully cheap.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
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And the answer is good for me - and you?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
Given the follow up on what You have I would put an aftermarket such as a mallorie unilite. It will run much better than what Your old one will, but keep the old one for a spare. I have a unilite in mine right now and plan on rebuilding the original with a protronics system so I can use My original tach. I will keep the unilite as a spare.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,391
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I've posted this info here several dozen times, but here goes again:
I have done actual dyno testing of distributors and ignition systems on a 450-horse small block with then-Editor for Hot Rod Magazine Matt King at the Westech Dyno Facility. We ran a stock points-type distributor (that I yanked out of his car in the Westech parking lot), after curving it correctly and installing a good set of points, against several aftermarket units (with electronic trigger systems). There was absolutely no power difference or gain from changing to the aftermarket distributors. In fact, an out-of-the-box aftermarket distributor will actually loose power compared to a correctly curved stock unit due to the conservative curve on any aftermarket unit. But with the same advance curve, there is no power difference at all on a mild performance engine.
Rebuild your stock unit, install good parts, and curve it correctly - no other system will perfrom better on a mild engine.
Lars
I have done actual dyno testing of distributors and ignition systems on a 450-horse small block with then-Editor for Hot Rod Magazine Matt King at the Westech Dyno Facility. We ran a stock points-type distributor (that I yanked out of his car in the Westech parking lot), after curving it correctly and installing a good set of points, against several aftermarket units (with electronic trigger systems). There was absolutely no power difference or gain from changing to the aftermarket distributors. In fact, an out-of-the-box aftermarket distributor will actually loose power compared to a correctly curved stock unit due to the conservative curve on any aftermarket unit. But with the same advance curve, there is no power difference at all on a mild performance engine.
Rebuild your stock unit, install good parts, and curve it correctly - no other system will perfrom better on a mild engine.
Lars
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
If you insist on the Pertronix you probably don't need to rebuild , just set your end play down around .010 and let her fly. The Pertronix doesn't care about a little wobble.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Carry a spare. A point ignition, short of a component failure, (something actually broken into pieces) or the coil shorting, will almost never force you to walk. You can adjust the points, tie the wires together or something. All the electronics take is one little $.50 part to die and you get to walk or get a ride.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Carry a spare. A point ignition, short of a component failure, (something actually broken into pieces) or the coil shorting, will almost never force you to walk. You can adjust the points, tie the wires together or something. All the electronics take is one little $.50 part to die and you get to walk or get a ride.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
For that just buy a Uni-Set , preset the dwell , toss them in the glovebox , if the points or cond fails then drop the Uni-Set in and your on the road in a matter of minutes.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Anything with electronics- transistors, resistors, capacitors, you name it-all the little stuff you can't see. Or fix on the side of the road.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 140
From: Western New York
If your distributor is a cast iron unit with the mechanical tach drive, don't turn it in as a core on a replacement. Even if you don't use it, it's worth more to someone than the $11.00 core charge. If you ever want to go back to that same type unit, it will cost you $$ to replace it!!! Keep it and rebuild.