Cool.. always glad to hear of a C3 being saved and enjoyed..

My feelings exactly. I'd suggest there may be middle ground in this case between a completely incorrect NOM and a #s matching. As I stated in another post I appreciate a NOM which is correct in every way except serial numbers as much as I do a #s match. It would look and run exactly the same. Only difference being non matching numbers or no numbers.. To anyone but a knowledgeable Corvette collector they would appear to be identical. However I do understand the collectors point of view wanting absolute authenticity. Its value comes from being absolutely original, matching #s, options installed as it left the factory, correct color, etc. This is the standard for judging. Without matching numbers a collector can't be sure it's not a clone? Unfortunately even with matching numbers there's a question, need documentation to back it up?

If the car falls outside of the collectable market I'd disagree. The BB car will often go for a bit more than the SB. There may be a larger difference between a matching #s big block and NOM. There doesn't seem to be much available for statistics to predict what a NOM BB or SB may go for.

 

If you have matching numbers, try to preserve this. So far as color goes, when it comes time for paint, put it back to orignal color?
What ever mods you do, if they can be reversed without big expense you'll do ok.

Only 4 dead mice? I think I've caught more than that with my car. Even had skeletal remains in my jack compartment. The Vette shop got a big kick out of that when they found it while doing some work for me.

 

There are two numbers stamped on the pad. One has the letter codes and the other is a series of numbers only. The font on each is different from the other. I believe the numbers only refers to the VIN but will have to check again. The other GM blocks laying around the garage only have the one letter coded numbers. I hope mine hasn't been restamped?

 

Just my 2 cents, but i would stay with the stock 454.You can bump the compression up to say 10-1 10.25-1 with cast heads and still run pump gas. I gather those are oval port heads, so you can have some bowl work done and some work done behind the valve as well. put in a decent hydraulic roller cam .585 lift .245/.255 A.050. and this motor will pull to 6000 rpm. You will end up with 550 hp and 550 tq, or close to it and still have a nice driver to boot. Dual plane intake and a Holley 850 carb will get it done.

 

If it's an original LS5 it's already at 10.25 compression. The heads are closed chamber. Don't know what can be done with these heads. A modern cam wouldn't hurt. May help get around pump gas.

One is the code stamped by the factory where the engine was built. The other should be a VIN derivative, numbers should match your vehicle.

If you're uncertain, maybe post both numbers you find. There are people on this forum who can decode them for you.

 

Yeah ok too bad you didnt have better heads those closed chamber heads are not all that good. Some 781 or 049 oval port heads are the better ones to use. But if your going to keep it all numbers matching, stay with the factory heads. A buddy here just bought a 502 Hp 502 crate from GM. Aluminum heads etc. 9-1 compression. not real exciting specs.

 

I have yet to post any results of my build but in a nutshell; GOFAST rebuilt my '71 LS-5. He reworked the "stock" heads, I went with a Holley Dominator manifold and intended on keeping the QJet. It is now a nice little 489, with all American made forged parts .... some of which ended up being a real PITA

Anyhow it has just made 511 hp with long tube headers and 496 with McJacks shortys. Oh and 549 Ft-lbs of torque.

No need to sell you motor and get a crate 502 that will need a new hood!

By the way the QJet was giving Gary problems so that is with a "shop" Holley that was lying about~! One wonders if I should keep the Holley

Anyhow its not done yet. I want to see the difference between the shortys and stock manifolds for hp .... we'll post details later

Cam was a custom grind from Comp 230/236 @0.050" 112 LSA and ~.550 lift ... I think.

I think that is enough power to move the old girl. The rest can be done with gears; i.e. 5 speed.

And the best part ...... it almost looks stock. The LS-5 manifold will be port matched so if I want to pop on the stock intake no issues.

If I was to do it over ..... I would not even bother with the stroker option. I spent $2000 on an American made crank from Crower that was not actually that great!!!! A nice 468 would have made enough power for me. But I am not too needy as I don't have much of an inclination to drag race ..... now the Big Bend Open Road Race; www.bborr.com is a different story.

The oil industry in the gulf just needs to come back so I can transfer back to Houston! Not much vette action in Bangkok! Although I did see Bangkok Dean's nice red C3 at the pub while I was driving past .... wish I had time to stop. Sweet looking ride!

carbster

 

carbster09, 5 HP down from a long tube headers is really good for that kind of headers! .. now if they only be a little cheaper .. I will wait for you to compare them with the stock manifolds, if they will offer 30-40 HP increase then I will start saving some $$$ to get them, I already fed up with those ugly looking, low hanging Hooker super comps that I have now.

 

I checked the numbers again. The stamp on the block is:

T02I5JE and 7111480.

Could not find the numbers on the side rail on the drivers side. Too much undercoating. Engine is still in the car, so the flywheel stamp could not be read. How does this corespond to the VIN to make sure. Thanks.

 

I'm not an expert on decoding engine build codes, the "T02I5JE". Maybe someone else can speak up on this.

The other number is the derivative. Do the last 5 digits match the last five of you vehicle VIN. Should be a tag on the driver's side windshield pillar.

 

Just figuered it out. Disregard all the above.T= Tonawanda, NY; 02= Feb;15= 15th; JE= '67 427/435 hp. Ouch.

Back to drawing board. VIN is different.