Pulling the original 454 LS5 from 70 to install 502. Want to keep but could use the $ to finish the job.

 

Getting rid of the original? If it's good, put in in the corner...someone down the road may want it. That's one thing that you'll never be able to replace once you get rid of it. My 2cents

 

Weighing the option of rebuilding cost vs. putting in crate 502 to actually get the 390hp or more.

 

If its the original engine to your car, then don't sell it or part it out, at least get all the fluids out of it and then wrap it nicely and store it in a nice place, your car value will be reduced a lot without it even if you have a much bigger/stronger engine in it.

 

Keep it.....for gawds sake - keep it

 

Especially a BB. You will never never get anything close to the $ hit you will take at resale not having the original engine.

 

You would be better off selling this car as-is and buying another one that's already had the engine replaced.

 

I AGREE!!

DON'T SELL IT!

You will cut your car's value in half if you get rid of the original big block....either build it and put it in or wrap it up and stick it in the corner of the garage...

If all you want is 500hp, that is nothing for a 454....basic rebuild with some headwork, nice roller cam/intake/carb will get you there. Your hood clearance and intake selection will be a determining factor. Just get the combo right and it will make 500+ and drive like a stocker.

 

Cutting the value in half may be a bit overstated, maybe more so for a small block, but not having an original engine is certainly a big hit. You'll lose buyers from the collector market without it. Do the numbers on the transmission match?

Collectors pay big $$ for cars with original parts, color, options, etc.
I don't know if I'd modify the original motor either. In theory it will reduce the value by the cost to put it back to original.

I'd agree, if a NOM big block is available, it has no value in the collector market. Not to say they aren't valuable, just a smaller group of buyers. You will not destroy value by changing color, tweaking the motor, upgrading options, etc. A NOM makes more sense to me for a weekend driver. The value in #s matching comes from keeping it absolutely original, any changes reduce value, even if the change is adding an option, upgrading.

The most common compromise is to put the original engine aside. Buy another to modify. When time comes to sell you could reinstall the original and sell the non original motor seperately.

 

Started here.

Here is were I'm so far, except the front end is almost complete and frame painted and wheel wells done. Doing some minor fiberglass on the valence while the front end is up. Moving to the back brakes, and then the motor. I like the rollercam/intake/carb solution to keep original as possible.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ictureid=62262

 

I am not an engine expert but I think it shouldn't be too hard to rebuild a 1970 454 to get as much power/torque as a 502/502 crate engine.

Also, isn't it tough to find an intake/carb combo with 502 that will fit under the stock BB hood? Are you planning on an L-88 hood?

 

454's and 502's use the same external components.

 

That has also been another issue. All things considered; it might be well and good to just to rebuild the 454.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ictureid=61250

 

Hi,
I agree with keeping the engine if the car left St. Louis with it.
Remember... when/if the engine is rebuilt the pad surface and stamps NEED TO STAY UNTOUCHED or the originality of the engine is lost.
More than a few blocks have been decked without the owner's knowledge or permission.
Regards,
Alan

 

I have been thinking about this all day and I have to respectfully disagree. It costs say $8-10k to paint a C3. If I am an NCRS buyer and I want an original car I am going to gig you $10k on the price to put it back right. If you have an original engine or original intake and carb or manifolds to go with the car, I wouldn't gig you as bad to change the intake back or remove headers or even put the old engine back. If you have an original buildable engine it should cost way less than $10k to build it and put it back in. IMHO anything that can be reversed by bolting back on (steering wheel, radio, wheels, intake/carb, air cleaner, ignition, headers, steering box, suspension, alternator, etc), if the originals are included with the car, does not devalue it as much as a color change or NOM engine (without the original). Even an L88 or long hood swap and including the original and wiper door hurts because you will probably not match the paint when you put them back on. I would like to see some others perspective on this. My .02, flame away.

 

Whatever you do, don't sell the original BB.

 

Keep the original motor. Throw a 1/4" stroker crank in it for a 496. Pull the original heads and get a set of Brodix Race-Rights (stock port location, paint them orange). Roller cam. Easy 600 HPat the crank.

 

No flames from here.

I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying or perhaps I wasn't very clear. What I meant to say is a NOM car, the original motor nowhere to be found, would be OK to change color to what ever you like. My point was the car can never be brought back to collectable condition for an NCRS buyer. I was suggesting the OP could sell his #s matching and buy a NOM Corvette if he wanted to modify freely without concern about losing value. I did not mean to suggest it would be OK to paint a #s matching vehicle any color other than what it shipped with. I agree, it would be expensive to reverse this, a major deduction to put it back to original.

Do you see it differently? It's my understanding once the original block is gone it will never be of interest to an NCRS buyer. Hence no need to be concened with originality, color, options, etc. IMO NOM Corvettes with no original engine are the best candidates to do as the owner pleases without concern with collector value. #s matching vehicles lose value as you modify them. As you say, the cost to return to original would be deducted.

Only way to get around the missing original block would be to buy a replacement with proper casting number and date codes. Either leave the pad blank or restamp. This raises ethical issues... fraud if it's done to be passed off as an original.

If I missed something, let me know or drop a me a PM.

 

Well, here is what I think needs to be done. Originality is important. Black was not a color back in 70 and the Blue under it is the original, but obviously the needs some work. The option is still open to rebuild the 454. I will double check the numbers again tomorrow. The M21 looks to be original and the engine seems to be untouched. Everything just needs attention as the car has been sitting for 10 years at the end of a dirt road under a carport with junk piled on top. Found 4 dead mice while stripping the interior. Steve, I think that's a great option. That way I wont need to alter the hood and keep the chrome wiper doors and still have the original look. Side note, lip seals or o-ring on the calipers?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ictureid=61250

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ictureid=62261

 

Nope, with that. That is my car. Started life as a 71 vert with a tree through where the engine should be, no front clip, wrong tail, not much interior, no drivetrain. I wanted a 69 so I built it as a 69. I have wrong everything, but I like it that way. I think of it as the 69 GM would have built in the early 90s.

I would like to hear from an NCRS buyer on what a date correct engine does, like a CE shortblock with correct heads and intake in an otherwise very correct and original car. I know it knocks it back a lot, but is that really as bad as a later 350 from an Impala or pickup for example? Is there some value to date correct but not numbers matching? I have to believe the gig is worse on a BB car than a SB, but may be wrong about that.