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One trick when pulling a distributor is to line up the rotor with the fire wall that way it's easier to re-install. I'm with the other guys, you're probably of a tooth on the distributor.
GrandSportC3,
Well, if you've got spark and you've stated you have good fuel pressure and even tried starter fluid, then the issue has to be timing.
Try this:
Unhook/remove the spark plugs
Get a compression gauge and hook it up to the #1 cylinder.
Get a timing light and link it to the #1 spark plug wire.
Hold your finger over the pressure release valve(if available)on the neck of the compression gauge.
Point the timing light at the face of the compression gauge
Remotely/or get a pal to turn the motor over.
You should see the compression gauge jump with every flash.
If it's delayed or off, then set her to TDC and reinstall the dizzy
Good luck.
I'll give that a try on the weekend if I'll get a chance.. Got very little time... I did check the spark again today and it's a VERY strong and visible spark (when pulling out the plug and cranking the engine)
So you're saying that the engine has not run with the distributor in its present location, right? Definitely a timing issue then. I don't think one tooth off is close enough to start unless you really twist the distributor around.
I always take a lot of care when pulling the distributor. I mark exactly the way it came out (the position of the rotor when completely in the tunnel and the position of the rotor after pulling it out. That way, I have never gotten it wrong..
One trick when pulling a distributor is to line up the rotor with the fire wall that way it's easier to re-install. I'm with the other guys, you're probably of a tooth on the distributor.
BTW- Congrats on your child
I doubt that the distributor is off. I also did try to move it in either direction and tried cranking and nothing...
well I just delt with my brothers lawn mower not starting. it had fuel and spark and it was timed right. found out there was water in the fuel. flushed out the carb and it fired right up.
If you don't mind removing the drivers valve cover to find TDC #1
bring your timing mark up on 0
#1 intake and exhaust should be closed
#3 intake and #5 exhaust will be open
if #3 and #5 are not open then bump the engine over 360 until the timing mark comes up again.
well I just delt with my brothers lawn mower not starting. it had fuel and spark and it was timed right. found out there was water in the fuel. flushed out the carb and it fired right up.
Eliminated that cause by draining and re-filling the fuel system...
If the plugs got fouled by race fuel, they will never light the motor. They must be replaced, not just cleaned. They may spark some, but they are also shorting out. Race fuel is much harder to light off then pump gas, so the plugs have to be right. One of my race cars was terrible that way, wouldn't fire in cold weather and certainly if the plugs had gotten fouled, it would not start unless the motor was cranked over with plugs out to clean the cylinders with the pump turned off and then new plugs installed.
Last edited by RobRace10; Sep 20, 2010 at 11:24 PM.
If the plugs got fouled by race fuel, they will never light the motor. They must be replaced, not just cleaned. They may spark some, but they are also shorting out. Race fuel is much harder to light off then pump gas, so the plugs have to be right. One of my race cars was terrible that way, wouldn't fire in cold weather and certainly if the plugs had gotten fouled, it would not start unless the motor was cranked over with plugs out to clean the cylinders with the pump turned off and then new plugs installed.
I tried starting the car with a almost brand new set of #10 plugs (which I use when running a larger shot of nitrous) and then I tired a set of #8 plugs (which I use when running engine only or only a small shot of nitrous). The result was the same.. The #10 plugs only have 3 runs on them.. Not really enough to foul them or could I be wrong?
Can the retard switches be unplugged to isolate a problem there ?
Is the dist dependent on the box to start , if not can the box be unplugged until you sort out the "no start" ?
Why don't you just borrow a stock hei dist to test. Easy 1 wire hookup and if nothing else use starter fluid. It should at least fart and eliminate the ignition as a problem.
Sometimes those fancy ign boxes fail in strange ways.
Forgot this, hook it directly to the bat pos to eliminate any switches etc.
My 406 is not a race motor (close though), and has a Proform main body on the carb (No choke). One time I had a time of it starting it after it sat for a while. Cranked on it till the battery was almost dead. The next day I went in the garage and flipped the key just to see if it would crank,....and it started right up. The only difference was the previous day it was below 40 degrees out, Since then I have noticed it's tougher to start when the temps out are below 40.
Can the retard switches be unplugged to isolate a problem there ?
Is the dist dependent on the box to start , if not can the box be unplugged until you sort out the "no start" ?
It's not that simple.. I would have to find all the manuals again for all the components.. I wired that 3 years ago and have no idea how to eliminate components without having the wiring diagrams. I doubt that there is a problem with any of the components as I get a strong spark on all 8 cylinders..
Why don't you just borrow a stock hei dist to test. Easy 1 wire hookup and if nothing else use starter fluid. It should at least fart and eliminate the ignition as a problem.
Sometimes those fancy ign boxes fail in strange ways.
Forgot this, hook it directly to the bat pos to eliminate any switches etc.
Unfortunately, I can't hook up just any distributor as my engine is built on a Dart Iron Eagle block with raised camshaft and I can only use a adjustable sleeve distributor and those are pretty expensive. A standard distributor can't be tied down as it will sit too high..
It's not that simple.. I would have to find all the manuals again for all the components.. I wired that 3 years ago and have no idea how to eliminate components without having the wiring diagrams. I doubt that there is a problem with any of the components as I get a strong spark on all 8 cylinders..
I understand the strong spark but is the spark at the right time ?
I understand the strong spark but is the spark at the right time ?
I agree that this sounds like the problem.. I'll probably end up pulling the distributor again on the weekend and setting it to #1. The way I usually do that it to take the drivers side valve cover off, bring the balancer to ZERO and make sure that the #1 valves are closed (that way I'm sure that I'm not 180 degrees off). Then I set the distributors rotor to #1 and try cranking it. However, won't have time to do that during the week.. WIll have to wait for the weekend..