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I've already measuered the power supply to the MSD bos and all looks fine.. Can't measure during cranking as I'd have to wire a remote starter.. Right now, I can't crank and measure at the same time due to that
If you have a Sears around you run out and pick this up...Actron Remote Starter Switch Cp7853 $12.99. This thing was well worth the few bucks when i was having similar issues as you this year trying to start by big block after sitting for 3 months. Mine was a fuel system issue. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G21
Good luck!
Once you get'er going lets hear some info on what you'd be willing to sell it for and what its got into it.
Just so that you have checked everything possible to enable the engine to fire up...do you have any hairline cracks in your intake manifold, or any of the gaskets look questionable on the carb and manifold assembly. Spray a little oil around all of the gasket areas...and try to give her a start... I twice had problems such as yours...#1 hairline crack
from a over tightened bolt...the #2 was corrosion of the water passages on the aluminum
manifolds. just a thought...you might have allready inspected this possible area of concern. Best of Luck!
If you have a Sears around you run out and pick this up...Actron Remote Starter Switch Cp7853 $12.99. This thing was well worth the few bucks when i was having similar issues as you this year trying to start by big block after sitting for 3 months. Mine was a fuel system issue. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G21
Good luck!
Once you get'er going lets hear some info on what you'd be willing to sell it for and what its got into it.
Will see when I'll have a chance to get the switch during the week.. Hooking it up won't happen before the weekend..
Just so that you have checked everything possible to enable the engine to fire up...do you have any hairline cracks in your intake manifold, or any of the gaskets look questionable on the carb and manifold assembly. Spray a little oil around all of the gasket areas...and try to give her a start... I twice had problems such as yours...#1 hairline crack
from a over tightened bolt...the #2 was corrosion of the water passages on the aluminum
manifolds. just a thought...you might have allready inspected this possible area of concern. Best of Luck!
I'll check for cracks but I doubt that this is the issue. Don't think that the water passages could cause a problem as I'm not even running the water pump.. I'd only turn on the water pump (electric) once the engine is running
Here is a thought, just had this happen to my buddies circle track car. He just bought the car and trailered it home, tryed to start the car no-go. Carb was getting fuel and the spark was nice and white. He is running a modified Qjet and I noticed the carb did not have a choke butterfly on it. Held a rag over the carb throat and she fired right up. Just a thought, I hope you get it running soon...Tim
I'm a forum noob and not nearly as mechanically inclined as most who have contributed on this thread.
That being said, since 'all' the basics have been covered and you're still not having any luck, could the problem be after the engine? My only potentially relevant experience like this was an old Buick I had that ran tip-top-perfect. After sitting for a while, it wouldn't start. Dead. Strong spark, good fuel pressure yada yada yada.....
Turns-out back pressure in the exhaust was the culprit. My catalytic was blocked solid. But I imagine your race car is dual exhaust so I doubt this is the case on your race car....
Maybe some prankster shoved bananas in your tailpipes?