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How to get ready for engine rebuild

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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 10:04 AM
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Default How to get ready for engine rebuild

I have a lot of questions so dont know where to start. As far as I know, the engine (except carb) is all original on my 79. "smog pump" components have been plugged/disabled to some extent. I am curious about how to add HP, keep the engine fairly original and keep it so that if emission inspections get more touchy at inspection time, I can still meet them. How much does/will it affect the originality of the vehichle in terms of resale value if I change things to the engine, what can I change and still make it hold value? Am I too concerned about this?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave5701
...I am curious about how to add HP, keep the engine fairly original and keep it so that if emission inspections get more touchy at inspection time, I can still meet them...
You could consider building an L-82. The parts are available and all genuine Corvette. It would provide a bit more horsepower and pass emissions with the stock emissions equipment in place.

...How much does/will it affect the originality of the vehichle in terms of resale value if I change things to the engine...
Depends on how radical your changes are. Some potential buyers will not want the modifications you make to the car; others won't mind them; still others will not realize you made the changes.

...Am I too concerned about this?...
Possibly. It's your car. Do what you want to do and don't be too concerned with John Q. Public.

FWIW: if the engine actually needs a rebuild, getting it back to stock performance will be a big improvement over what you have now.

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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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Default L-82

The engine is an L82. I want more power. Now maybe there are some reasons I am not aware of that is causing it to not have the power I want. The engine runs fine, does not burn oil, no smoke. But I believe the stock HP for that engine is like 220HP.

You mentioned "with the stock emmissions in place". Do you mean what is on the car now? or if I built an L82, I could get the emmissions equipment?

And I agree, it is my car. What I was thinking was to check cylinder wear then decide if I need to do any boring or not. If so, increase compression some, get heads cleaned up, change cam, do a little exhaust work, but mainly leave stock components in place. Do you think by doing that, emissions might still pass?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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If bought the car as an investment keep as original as possible, best solution is build a new motor and store the original.

If you bought the car because you want a vette than make it how you want it. It is the only way to be totally happy with it.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 929nitro
If bought the car as an investment keep as original as possible, best solution is build a new motor and store the original.

If you bought the car because you want a vette than make it how you want it. It is the only way to be totally happy with it.
The original engines in the late 70s cars were not that strong. It is very likely that at least 1 head if not both are cracked. If you want more power you can go to a 90's TBI, or better yet Vortec, long block with roller cam and have better heads and 1-pc seals-even with keeping the carb. Stock TBI, TPI, or LT1 fuel injected swaps will give more power and better driveability than stock and even without the cat better emissions than when your car was new. If it was me, I'd put the original engine (and transmission) in a corner for posterity and swap in a later FI engine (and OD trans). I have a TPI in mine and while it won't run with an LS, but it has more power and twice the fuel mileage of the original car.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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The L-82 with standard, factory 79 emissions equipment (AIR, cat con, etc) met federal emissions requirements. With that equipment operable and in place, your 79 should pass emissions testing.

Based on what you've posted, you don't actually need a rebuild.


Last edited by Easy Mike; Oct 12, 2010 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by markdtn
The original engines in the late 70s cars were not that strong. It is very likely that at least 1 head if not both are cracked. If you want more power you can go to a 90's TBI, or better yet Vortec, long block with roller cam and have better heads and 1-pc seals-even with keeping the carb. Stock TBI, TPI, or LT1 fuel injected swaps will give more power and better driveability than stock and even without the cat better emissions than when your car was new. If it was me, I'd put the original engine (and transmission) in a corner for posterity and swap in a later FI engine (and OD trans). I have a TPI in mine and while it won't run with an LS, but it has more power and twice the fuel mileage of the original car.
Emissions, tell me how the inspections work if you know. If I put in a completely different engine, this means all the 70's emissions gunk goes out. Now, it may be that where I live, there is not now or maybe never will be a tail pipe sniffer during inspections. So how do I plan on meeting emissions if that issue ever comes up?? Do they look for original emission controls or do they have some PPM standard by year or something like that I have to meet?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 02:31 PM
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Since we don't know where you live (no info on your 'page'), we can't advise of your state's emission laws. Your first call should be to the BMV and/or vehicle emissions department offices in your state to determine the relevant laws being applied to your car. Many states have exclusions on older vehicles IF they still have the original emissions equipment and it is operational. Very few states have exclusion rules for old cars but do not require them to have any emission equipment in place. Knowing the applicable laws will allow you to pass vehicle inspections and maximize the power your engine can produce while staying 'legal'.

Defeating the AIR pump system...other than due to a malfuctioning of that equipment...is pretty lame, as it does not really take any significant power to operate (1-2 hp). Likewise for most of the other emissions system stuff put on engines in that era. Since you still have that equipment, get it operational and let it do what it can for you.

Now, keeping your L-82 heads and changing cams with the expectation of getting a big increase in HP is unrealistic. You need better breathing heads...with a higher compression ratio...along with a stouter cam and larger headers (with larger CAT and larger single exhaust pipe) if you want more HP and staying emissions legal.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Since we don't know where you live (no info on your 'page'), we can't advise of your state's emission laws. Your first call should be to the BMV and/or vehicle emissions department offices in your state to determine the relevant laws being applied to your car. Many states have exclusions on older vehicles IF they still have the original emissions equipment and it is operational. Very few states have exclusion rules for old cars but do not require them to have any emission equipment in place. Knowing the applicable laws will allow you to pass vehicle inspections and maximize the power your engine can produce while staying 'legal'.

Defeating the AIR pump system...other than due to a malfuctioning of that equipment...is pretty lame, as it does not really take any significant power to operate (1-2 hp). Likewise for most of the other emissions system stuff put on engines in that era. Since you still have that equipment, get it operational and let it do what it can for you.

Now, keeping your L-82 heads and changing cams with the expectation of getting a big increase in HP is unrealistic. You need better breathing heads...with a higher compression ratio...along with a stouter cam and larger headers (with larger CAT and larger single exhaust pipe) if you want more HP and staying emissions legal.
COOL, that is what I wanted to know. I was told those heads probably would not do what I wanted. It looks more like I need to do as one said above, pull engine, store it, get another one, OD tranny, new exhaust .. and put back the emissions just in case
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave5701
I have a lot of questions so dont know where to start. As far as I know, the engine (except carb) is all original on my 79. "smog pump" components have been plugged/disabled to some extent. I am curious about how to add HP, keep the engine fairly original and keep it so that if emission inspections get more touchy at inspection time, I can still meet them. How much does/will it affect the originality of the vehichle in terms of resale value if I change things to the engine, what can I change and still make it hold value? Am I too concerned about this?
Im willing to bet that there are many people who would be more interested in performance than in originality ... I for one . Corvette historically is known for being fast ; a highway cruiser can be found in a plethera of tin cars if thats what someone wants. If i had your car and the money, Id concentrate on pumping up the horsepower and torque and if you ever moved to a different State that didnt have emmisions testing, Id drop a powerful crate engine in it . Dont mean any offense at all, but, this is my opinion.
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave5701
Emissions, tell me how the inspections work if you know. If I put in a completely different engine, this means all the 70's emissions gunk goes out. Now, it may be that where I live, there is not now or maybe never will be a tail pipe sniffer during inspections. So how do I plan on meeting emissions if that issue ever comes up?? Do they look for original emission controls or do they have some PPM standard by year or something like that I have to meet?
Depends. Some places have visual inspections, some just do sniffers, some cars are exempt after 25 years, some exempt before 1975 (like Tennessee). A fuel injected engine will likely pass the sniffer test even with no cat. If you have to pass a visual just for a cat (like in Tennessee) you need one regardless. If you have a hood-open visual test, you need all the emissions stuff on the engine. You really need to know your state and local regs to get a good answer.
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