68 manual trans center console
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Roseville MI.
68 manual trans center console
I have a 68 427 4 speed and I am removing the engine and trans..
How do I get the center console out?
Do I have to remove the dash cluster to get to the screws?
How do I get to the rear bolt holding down the parking brake cover?
I found this and got sidetracked for a little while.[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]
The car has been setting for 25 years and it appears some of the locals moved in.
How do I get the center console out?
Do I have to remove the dash cluster to get to the screws?
How do I get to the rear bolt holding down the parking brake cover?
I found this and got sidetracked for a little while.[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG][/IMG]The car has been setting for 25 years and it appears some of the locals moved in.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Trim screws along the sides; two nuts on studs beneath the center cluster bezel. Trim screws on the shifter plate. Set screws on the VENT *****. Two screws on the underside of the console holding the vent door cables. I find it easier to remove the e-brake console first.
No. The cluster will not come out with the nuts on the studs.
From the rear. Remove the glove box.
The assembly instruction manual (AIM) would be a big help to you. Order one. It has assembly diagrams of everything you are wanting to do.
...Do I have to remove the dash cluster to get to the screws?
...How do I get to the rear bolt holding down the parking brake cover?...
The assembly instruction manual (AIM) would be a big help to you. Order one. It has assembly diagrams of everything you are wanting to do.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Oct 21, 2010 at 12:36 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 65
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From: Roseville MI.
I have the AIM manual but I was not to sure about everything that had to come apart.
I'm just starting on this project and I'm a little timid about takeing apart more than I have to.
Also the AIM does not tell what has to come out first.
I thank everybody on the forum for their time answering questions when I start getting nervous.
With time I'm sure I will gain more confidence.
Thanks: Matt
I'm just starting on this project and I'm a little timid about takeing apart more than I have to.
Also the AIM does not tell what has to come out first.
I thank everybody on the forum for their time answering questions when I start getting nervous.
With time I'm sure I will gain more confidence.
Thanks: Matt
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I've had to remove the storage compartment door frame to get the glove box out. Mine is a 70, thinks it's pretty similar.
Once the glove box is out you should be able to access a bolt which holds the E-brake console in place.
I just removed most of my interior last week...
Once the glove box is out you should be able to access a bolt which holds the E-brake console in place.
I just removed most of my interior last week...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,134
Likes: 4,206
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi PM,
Here's the hole for the bolt you're looking for. You can reach it by taking the tray out of the jack compartment and reaching your hand along the rear of the seat bulkhead with a small socket wrench.
I really don't think the console needs to come out. I believe if you take the shifter **** off, the shifter will drop down when you loosen it from the transmission.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Here's the hole for the bolt you're looking for. You can reach it by taking the tray out of the jack compartment and reaching your hand along the rear of the seat bulkhead with a small socket wrench.
I really don't think the console needs to come out. I believe if you take the shifter **** off, the shifter will drop down when you loosen it from the transmission.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You have two boots on the shifter...the upper one is mounted to the console shifter plate and the bottom one is mounted to the transmission tunnel. If the bottom one is torn (likely) then you need to replace it if you want to keep all that BB heat out of the cabin. Although it can be done with the remainder of the console still installed, it will be a struggle. Check it out and report back.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Roseville MI.
Allen, I can't get to the shifter mounting bolts from under the car I think thats why I have to pull the console.
If that is not the case, can you recommend how to get to the bolts?
Faster Rat, The inner shifter boot is in good condition.
Speaking of BB heat, should I replace the insulation that fastens to the under side of the body. All that is left is a little pice behind the engine and over the trans. and that is not in good shape.
If that is not the case, can you recommend how to get to the bolts?
Faster Rat, The inner shifter boot is in good condition.
Speaking of BB heat, should I replace the insulation that fastens to the under side of the body. All that is left is a little pice behind the engine and over the trans. and that is not in good shape.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
BTW: How did you get your floor pan so clean?? No factory overspray?
I have to say I admire your pictures, never seen such a clean, well preserved car, a standard I can shoot for but may never achieve. Very nice work there!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Allen, I can't get to the shifter mounting bolts from under the car I think thats why I have to pull the console.
If that is not the case, can you recommend how to get to the bolts?
Faster Rat, The inner shifter boot is in good condition.
Speaking of BB heat, should I replace the insulation that fastens to the under side of the body. All that is left is a little pice behind the engine and over the trans. and that is not in good shape.
If that is not the case, can you recommend how to get to the bolts?
Faster Rat, The inner shifter boot is in good condition.
Speaking of BB heat, should I replace the insulation that fastens to the under side of the body. All that is left is a little pice behind the engine and over the trans. and that is not in good shape.
Paragon sells the tunnel insulator and foam collar, as well as the floor pan insulation.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,134
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi BB,
I cleaned the fiberglass underbody with lacquer thinner and 3M adhesive remover.
I repainted the birdcage with an enamel matched to the original zinc paint.
A LOT of work!!! Thanks for noticing.
Regards,
Alan,
I cleaned the fiberglass underbody with lacquer thinner and 3M adhesive remover.
I repainted the birdcage with an enamel matched to the original zinc paint.
A LOT of work!!! Thanks for noticing.
Regards,
Alan,
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
You're quite welcome. That was some extraordinary effort you made. You well deserve recognition for your work. Very nice job,inspiring.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 65
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From: Roseville MI.
F R, thank you for the information I will be back at it monday and try to get it from underneath.
Allen, that is a beautiful job you are doing and is an inspiration to us all, thanks for all your help.
Allen, that is a beautiful job you are doing and is an inspiration to us all, thanks for all your help.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,275
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From: Redondo Beach, California
About that zinc dichromate paint. I did a Google and found a source. The stuff I bought came in a spray can and is intended as a primer for aluminum. Of course it works as a primer and protective coat for steel. It comes in two shades. One is yellowish and the other is greenish. The birdcage uses the greenish.
